Buffing wheel speeds

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mmayo

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Jan 12, 2013
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I've been using the Beale buffing wheels for years on my older Rikon variable speed lathe. To help I friend I sold it to him and bought a Jet. I tried slower speeds when buffing to reduce the chance of shooting items across the shop. BAD IDEA. I had scratches that would not buff out and generally dull items. Easy fix - turn up the speed to where I had been bugging successfully.

Try 1800 rpm for success with Tripoli and white diamond.
 
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Beware - some acrylic acetate blanks require careful buffing to avoid melting them. I just slow down and allow cooling. They shine well too.
 
I prefer slower speeds that the 1800 rpm the instructions said, down as low as low as 1000 rpm. I buff across as when turned, then at a 45º angle (one hand lower that the other), then the opposite and finally lengthwise along the tube. I start after sanding to 400 or at most 600 grit. Before moving up from Tripoli to White Diamond and then to the Carnauba Wax I remove all the abrasive on the blank especially the ends to prevent bringing coarse abrasive up to the finer. Everyone finds a method that works for them.
 
According to Caswell Plating:
For best results your wheel should maintain a surface speed of between 3600 & 7500 Surface Feet Per Minute. (SFPM). The higher your speed, the better and quicker your results.
Most people use 1750 rpm with 8" buffs (~3600 SFPM) or 3600 rpm with 6" buffs (~5600 SPFM).
 
The Caswell max surface speeds are based on proper buffing machines with a stiff shaft. The 3 wheel Beall is a threaded rod held at the end by a live centre. Spinning it at higher speeds may cause it to bend and let go at the tailstock. Keep the wheel turning at sensible speeds.
 
According to Caswell Plating:

Most people use 1750 rpm with 8" buffs (~3600 SFPM) or 3600 rpm with 6" buffs (~5600 SPFM).
This is interesting and something I hadn't considered. I've been using the PSI lathe buffing system and never gave any thought to the FPM. I do usually buff at pretty high speed, but I use a mandrel with the delrin cone bushings so I can easily maintain my grip and keep my fingers out of the way. At least the mandrel is still useful for something.
 
I'd say I buff around 1500-1700 RPM most of the time. I am afraid to buff too fast with resins, you never know what might happen with heat.

I use this little tool to help me hold onto the blank when buffing:

full
 
I too use a wooden dowel to hold my items as taught by Ed from Exotic Blanks years ago. I used my 3D printed buffing bushings to protect the ends from rounding during buffing.

Here are some pens made with alumilite that took about 30-60 seconds from sanded to done in the lathe. I never use wax as it constantly dulls and must be rubbed to look shiny again. Without wax it is shiny all the time. I've tried both!
 

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