Bubble Free PR Casting My Way

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rd_ab_penman

rd_ab_penman

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Messages
1,654
Location
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada.
I have had great results getting bubble free castings without the use of a PP or ultrasonic cleaner or any other vibrating devices using Resin Saver mold.

1. Slowly pour required amount of resin into a plastic cup letting the resin run down the side wall of the cup to avoid creating any air bubbles.

2. Place the plastic cup of resin into a shallow container filled with hot water at a temperature of 42C ( 115 F )

3. Add the required amount of catalyst to the warm resin and stir gently for two minuets to avoid creating any air bubbles

4. Once the resin has warmed enough to reduce the viscosity similar to water it is ready to pour.

5. Slowly pour the warmed resin into the mold and using a tooth pick remove any air bubbles that may form in the resin. Resin usually starts to gel in 10-15 minuets.

6. Place the mold into my warming chamber for 6-8 hours to cure.

Les

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Great advice Les! Been watching your feather threads for a while!!

Is this the way you do those feather blanks too? Also what sort of warming chamber do you use /temp? As in the UK Ive never heard of one!!?

Good Work,
PHIL
 
Les i've been doing mine pretty much the same and with great results also. I usually do any pours near the end of my 'shop time' and when the fan and air are turned off~ turns right into a warming chamber :)
 
I've wondering how it would work to put a ball-bearing or marble in the container with your resin, add the catalyst and than sort of swirl the container around gently so the bearing rolls around to do the mixing. This as opposed to stirring. Maybe it would introduce less bubbles, but than again maybe it would cause more. Just a thought. I don't cast yet so I can't try my theory.
 
Thanks for posting that Les.
It was very helpful for anyone that is contemplating getting into casting or ones that are already having some problems with methods they are trying.

I doubt if I will ever get into casting because in my particular area a pen is "just a pen" and not worth the price I would need to get to break even . But if I ever try my hand at casting, your tutorials will be the first place I will look for great advice.
 
philbaldwin said:
Great advice Les! Been watching your feather threads for a while!!

Is this the way you do those feather blanks too? Also what sort of warming chamber do you use /temp? As in the UK Ive never heard of one!!?

Good Work,
PHIL
Click to expand...

Phil,

I have attached Tutorial on how I made my Warming Chamber with the help of another forum member.

I run my Warming Chamber at 100 F with the fan on Hi Speed.

Les
 

Attachments

  • Warming Chamber Set Up.pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 316
soligen said:
Do you have a way to keep the temp from getting too high? Or, is a 40W bulb not really a risk?
Click to expand...

Dennis,

I don't go by the wattage on the light bulb. Each light bulb emits different amount of heat.

I use a 60 watt (regular, not compact fluorescent) light bulb for my warming chamber (bucket/pail). That's why we use a thermometer.

And also depending in the temp in your workshop. My workshop is not that insulated, much colder in winter. Right now in the summer time, I have to put a stick on each of the pail before I "rest" the lid on to regulate the heat flow.

One more thing the fan is *very* important, it circulate the heat. There is a difference of 10 -15 deg F between the bottom of the pail compare to the top, specially if you use a 2-tier rack (sometime I cast 2 molds at the same time)

So ... thermometer, fan and sticks. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

Good luck.
 
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