Brad Point vs. Pilot Point

[Ulises Victoria]

What is the difference between Brad and Pilot point drill bits?
I mean, I can "see" the difference but in performance, which is better to drill pen blanks and why? Also, which is recommended when drilling wood with aluminum or brass inserts? The drill has to drill first wood, then metal, then wood again.
I will appreciate all the input. Thank you in advance for your time.

 

[PenMan1]

Brad point bits work well on most woods without twists and knots, but don't do very well on materials other than wood.

Additionally, the first time that you put a brad point into the drill doctor, you lose the brad point.

I have been very happy with the Colt 5 Star Pen Makers bits and the Colt parabolic bits. In fact, they are the best bits I've ever used. They drill acrylics, metals and other alternative materials better than anything else I've tried.

 

[commercialbuilder]

I really like the Delta pilot point bits and the Colt bits, they both work extremely well in wood or acrylic.

 

[PenPal]

Ulises,

I only have used with huge success and longevity pilot point drills, they have marvelous abilities the ones I use they have shallow lands and were designed originally for stainless steel, I use no board under the blank live virtually without breakout get hundreds of drillings
from each drill sometimes many hundreds, regard this as amusing when I read about sharpening cause I regard my drills as the cheapest cost of all in pen making. I have never altered the speed on my dedicated drill stand run at a fast speed for all species of timber or
other material, these drills do not track maintaing a straight cut for me every time. Indeed as I sometimes drill for half an hour at least on long runs I leave the drill switched on giving great respect to both the cutting edge and sides of the drill bit. The ones I use have a hex cut shaft that can never slip in the chuck. I have used the Brad Point drills for other reasons without the same success, certainly they dont last long and tend to clog up badly.

Built a largeish metal covered area found these drills up to 3/4 inch ideal for drilling large pipe (no slip on an angle) ie the Pilot Point. The only thing I learned was that laminated material can clog between laminates.

Sorry for my common descriptions but they the Drill Points win hands down for me.

Kind regards Peter.

 

[KenV]

Think about different bits depending on what you are drilling.

Segmented work - especially with metal in the segmentation needs a really sharp, straight, bit, and you have to drill to the center of the pattern all the way through.

This is a place for premium bits and especially careful process. A drill bit never cuts a perfect circular hole, some just come closer than others. (Ask any machinist -- )

I like a nice newish Colt bit -- one that is kept specially for drilling demanding situation. 2nd choice is a premium machinist bit -- Norseman.

If it is a important to be done well -- like a segmented blank, I drill on the lathe. If it has metal in it, I often use a bit of mineral spirits (kerosene, stoddard solvent, deodorized mineral spirits, or similar because it cleans up easy and has no lasting residue) to help keep the bit cooler and help avoid grabbing.

 

[BradG]

A drill bit never cuts a perfect circular hole, some just come closer than others. (Ask any machinist -- )

I like a nice newish Colt bit -- one that is kept specially for drilling demanding situation. 2nd choice is a premium machinist bit -- Norseman.

If it is a important to be done well -- like a segmented blank, I drill on the lathe. If it has metal in it, I often use a bit of mineral spirits (kerosene, stoddard solvent, deodorized mineral spirits, or similar because it cleans up easy and has no lasting residue) to help keep the bit cooler and help avoid grabbing.

+1 on the holes... thats what reamers are for