Bottle Stopper????

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sandking

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Hi all,

I have someone that wants to order some bottle stoppers but needs them in a couple of days. Unfortunately my first order of blanks won't get here until late next week.

My plan was to glue up two pieces of scrap I have after running them through the jointer to get them nice and flat. I have 1" thick pieces of Caribbean Redwood, Purpleheart, Walnut and Saepell (as you can tell I am a woodworker looking to get into turning). I would like to glue them up vertically which would be stronger, but if I did it horizontally I could hide any seam with a grove. I've done this with two contrasting woods, but not with two pieces of the same kind of wood.

Has anyone done this? Am I setting myself up for an unsatisfied customer? I would love to ship my order out two day, but the cost is rediculous.
 
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Is there any place near where you live that would sell blocks for turning? If there is you might want to go see what they have. If not, what you're planning should work depending on the glue you use. I would probably use Titebond. If you're using one of the bottle stopper mandrels, be real careful about how tightly the wood fits on it. If it's too tight, it could cause the glue joint to fail. The same would go for screwing on the stopper part.
 
i don't know of any place around me that sells blocks. I was thinking of using thick CA glue to join the pieces together. Would Titebond be better?
 
I agree with Ron on the Titebond as long as the joints are long grain to long grain (and if you are jointing the boards, you shouldn't have any "seams"). For any other alignment, I'd use CA.

NOTE: By "seams" I am really referring to seam voids. Using two different species will always result in a true seam. That isn't a problem. The problem comes from gluing up pieces that aren't truly flat. Jointed stock shouldn't have this problem. BTW, small seam voids can be filled with sawdust and CA and turn relatively invisible.
 
In the software business, they say that if you have a bug, just dress it up and call it a feature! How about laminating different woods together vertically in a 4-square pattern and highlight the contrast?
 
I have done many segmented bottle stoppers using the advice listed here by the folks who have answered your question. The titebond is good for gluing the wood, and use clamps as you would on your other woodworking...just enough pressure for a squeeze out line...you should be able to turn them just like any other bottle stopper after that.....I have not used a jointer for my stoppers, but have a nice blade in the tablesaw that gives me nice enough joints...
 
I would agree with adding that into your design and making segmented Blanks. Since you have to glue them up mix up the colors / thicknesses / angles etc to get some "Fancier" designs. I think you customer would like them too unless the specifically requested a certain style/design.
 
Originally posted by jaywood1207
<br />I just did 7 today and used CA to glue them up. Am I going to have problems?
Click to expand...

Titebond is great stuff and what I use most of the time, but CA works fine for me too. Especially if I have some voids, the CA acts as a filler that can be sanded polished and finished over.

Fangar
 
Joe,
Problem solved, I hope. Did you hear of me through this forum, or the stopper forum? At any rate, I think you'll like my prices. I know that they're way below PSI's.

I'm available for any questions. Thanks for your inquiry.
Rob (aka figuredwoods)
 
Originally posted by BigRob777
<br />Joe,
Problem solved, I hope. Did you hear of me through this forum, or the stopper forum? At any rate, I think you'll like my prices. I know that they're way below PSI's.

I'm available for any questions. Thanks for your inquiry.
Rob (aka figuredwoods)
Click to expand...

Rob,

I threw your name down through the Stopper forum and directed him to you here too.

Fangar
 
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