Blank Storage

[Todd in PA]

I did a search and saw lots of different storage solutions, but my question is a bit different.

How do you store your wood blanks? I keep them out of direct light, in drawers, to prevent color fading. My small shop is heated and I have a dehumidifier running there set to 40%. The blanks often come wrapped in plastic, and if they're kiln dried, keeping them in plastic is probably the best way to keep them as dry as possible. OR, should I open them up and let them acclimate to my shop? They crack when they dry out, not when they reabsorb humidity from the air, right?

I guess my question is whether wood should be kept in plastic, or allowed to acclimate to my shop prior to turning?

 

[jttheclockman]

I did a search and saw lots of different storage solutions, but my question is a bit different.

How do you store your wood blanks? I keep them out of direct light, in drawers, to prevent color fading. My small shop is heated and I have a dehumidifier running there set to 40%. The blanks often come wrapped in plastic, and if they're kiln dried, keeping them in plastic is probably the best way to keep them as dry as possible. OR, should I open them up and let them acclimate to my shop? They crack when they dry out, not when they reabsorb humidity from the air, right?

I guess my question is whether wood should be kept in plastic, or allowed to acclimate to my shop prior to turning?


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That is basically what I use. I bought a bunch of those rolling carts from Harbor Freight when they were on sale. Have a few for blanks. One dedicated for segmenting stuff and one designated for casting supplies and other odd ball things such as bottlestoppers and key rings and other things. They work well. Easy to move around if need be and they are out of the way. I do have too many blanks though. I could live 100 lifetimes and still not use them all up. Same with pen kits.

 

[anthonyd]

I also store my wood blanks in a drawer with no wrap. I only keep my ebonite blanks in their original plastic wrap.

 

[Penchant 4]

If building furniture, the answer is yes let the wood acclimate to the shop since the pieces are large/long/thick. For pens, it is not as critical, if critical at all. Typical finished thickness of wood on a pen is not LIKELY to cause problems. However, that is not a guarantee.

Yes, drying is usually what causes cracks/splits/checks, especially when the wood dries unevenly. Absorption of moisture can cause the wood to warp and twist as it swells.