blackening tubes

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Russianwolf

Russianwolf

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Joined
Jul 13, 2007
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Martinsburg, WV, USA.
Okay, maybe I was a bit impatient this weekend but I sprayed some enamel pain on some tubes and got them all ready to cast inside of an hour or so. Pour the resin (Silmar41) and when I went back out to check them the paint had blistered and pulled away from the tube letting brass show through all over them.

What can I do to avoid this? I have 4 more sets painted and ready (worked on those while the others were hardening) I'm letting them sit for now to cure more and I could salvage them if needs be before casting.

I've seen the brass ager. Is it really black and will it hold up against the resin?

Any other suggestions please. I want to get this right.
 
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I use paint on both my snake skin blanks and the blanks ZI make with printed labels. I have not cast painted tubes, if that is what you did. I have never had any problem with paint blistering under the skins or labels. I use Rustoleum Painter's Touch (white) primer under the labels and Rustoleum Camouflage ultra black or green under the skins. I allow the paint to dry and cure for a couple of days before applying the labels or skins. I sand the tubes prior to painting and clean them with an oil free solvent.

Some have suggested using the heat resistant paint for BBQ grills if the color you need is available.

Powder coating is another choice if you have several of these to do an a recurring basis.

There is a product called BlackIt used to blacken brass. Here is an article you may find useful.
http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/bushingsandtubes.pdf

Maybe some better info will come from someone else.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Russianwolf said:
Okay, maybe I was a bit impatient this weekend but I sprayed some enamel pain on some tubes and got them all ready to cast inside of an hour or so. Pour the resin (Silmar41) and when I went back out to check them the paint had blistered and pulled away from the tube letting brass show through all over them.

What can I do to avoid this? I have 4 more sets painted and ready (worked on those while the others were hardening) I'm letting them sit for now to cure more and I could salvage them if needs be before casting.

I've seen the brass ager. Is it really black and will it hold up against the resin?

Any other suggestions please. I want to get this right.
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Sounds like contaminates on the tubes. Possible oil from fingers? How's your temp.?
 
its_virgil said:
I use paint on both my snake skin blanks and the blanks ZI make with printed labels. I have not cast painted tubes, if that is what you did. I have never had any problem with paint blistering under the skins or labels. I use Rustoleum Painter's Touch (white) primer under the labels and Rustoleum Camouflage ultra black or green under the skins. I allow the paint to dry and cure for a couple of days before applying the labels or skins. I sand the tubes prior to painting and clean them with an oil free solvent.

Some have suggested using the heat resistant paint for BBQ grills if the color you need is available.

Powder coating is another choice if you have several of these to do an a recurring basis.

There is a product called BlackIt used to blacken brass. Here is an article you may find useful.
http://content.penturners.org/library/general_reference/bushingsandtubes.pdf

Maybe some better info will come from someone else.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...
Thanks Don,
So maybe it was just my impatience, not giving enough cure time for the paint. I'll wait till the weekend and try the ugliest one of the four I have prepped, that should be enough time there.

If that doesn't work (though its the same paint I used successfully before) I'll try one of the others.
 
DozerMite said:
Sounds like contaminates on the tubes. Possible oil from fingers? How's your temp.?
Click to expand...

not likely contaminates, after sanding they go straight to a paint stand for spraying. no finger contact.

My temp is 96.8....... oh you mean outdoor temp? was in the upper 70's maybe 80s on Sunday here. And I've moved my casting to my tractor shed which may be a bit warmer.
 
Mike: I think you've hit on it. I leave the paint to cure at least over night, generally longer. When I rushed things, I had problems similar to yours. Now, if I want black, I use a blackener. I like it because it adds nothing to the dimension of the tubes. That doesn't matter where you are casting the tubes, but where you are drilling blanks, it helps.
 
If you are only 96.8... you should see a doctor.:eek: You are a couple degrees down.:tongue::biggrin:

So it lifted after you cast it? Then yeah, needs to cure.
 
DozerMite said:
If you are only 96.8... you should see a doctor.:eek: You are a couple degrees down.:tongue::biggrin:

So it lifted after you cast it? Then yeah, needs to cure.
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Just ask my family.... I've always been a little off. ;) that is my actual temp, docs can't explain it.

Anyone offering powder coated tubes by any chance?
 
I used to work in a uniform shop that engraved name tags. The brass tags had an enamel coat on them. Once they were engraved (through the enamel coat) we used the blackening chemical and it does turn the brass black. Wish I remembered what the name of the stuff was but I can't remember what I am writing about here. Can some one help me please? Am I home yet?:rolleyes:
 
sbwertz said:
Russianwolf said:
DozerMite said:
If you are only 96.8... you should see a doctor.:eek: You are a couple degrees down.:tongue::biggrin:

So it lifted after you cast it? Then yeah, needs to cure.
Click to expand...

Just ask my family.... I've always been a little off. ;) that is my actual temp, docs can't explain it.

quote]

Same here. If I'm 98.6 I'm sick!
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I generally run about 96.6-96.9 as well.

I get all kinds of grief for being feverish at 100. I have had a couple doctors try to run various tests to decide what is wrong with me for having a low temp, but given that I refuse to pay them for the tests, they never seem to get done.
Click to expand...
 
Mike: I think you will like the Brass Ager from Indy-Pen_Dance. That's ALL I use if I want black. Take a small round shampoo bottle that you swipe from a hotel, cut the top out of it, clean, fill with BA, drop the tube for about 15 -30 seconds, take out, rinse, wipe dry, your ready to cast. The used ager can be poured back in the bottle and saved for the next time. Dark black color, not real glossy.
 
For the black, use brass-ager. For white, contact Ernie at Beartooth. Last time I ordered from him, my order shipped Sat. and I got it Mon. He has dark nickel also, if that would work.
 
I haven't done any casting yet, but I wonder: Has anyone tried accelerating the paint curing by running them through an oven or leaving under a heat lamp or something (not sure the best approach, just asking)?
 
Pulled the cast (have to give major props to Charlie's resin saver molds, the cast itself looks great) anywhere the resin had direct access to the paint is pretty much gone, brass showing. Going to turn these myself to make sure everything else is working right.
 
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