Black Alumilite - sharing some thoughts

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Texatdurango

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We're always looking for the best material to make our blanks from and comparing polyester resins to Alumilite's polyurethane resins.

While I totally agree that Alumilite is the hands down choice for which resin to use, in a recent thread I was a little vocal about my displeasure with the black die that Alumilite offers for use with their clear resins. The die comes to you pretty thick, almost like a paste and they recommend to thin it with part "A" of whichever resin you are using but I found that even after thinning and mixing the resin well, I still wound up with very tiny blobs of uncured dye in my blanks which ruined the blank and caused me to trash quite a few blanks.

I got some "Regular" black resin in from them this week to try out and I am tickled with the results so thought I'd share my thoughts.

If you need some material to make your black finials and fountain pen sections or just want a stunning solid black pen, there is nothing better than the "regular" black Alumilite! For starters, at $116 for a two gallon kit, it's cheaper than using the clear at $160 for a two gallon kit then dealing with the thick black die.

I cast a few blanks without pressure and found that they had very tiny air pin holes so I believe the "regular" resin needs to be cast under pressure just like the clear. I cast half a dozen blanks under pressure, demolded them after 20 minutes then waited a day before turning, sanding and polishing and found that not only does the solid black polish as well as the black tinted clear, I believe it polishes up a lot shiner and gives a deep black gloss. I would not hesitate putting these up against the best polyester blanks around for a shine comparison!

I would seriously recommend anyone making their own "Kitless" designs needing glossy black finials and grip sections to give this material a try. They sell 28 oz kits for $36, which doesn't sound like much but is probably enough resin to make several dozen blanks.

Another side benefit of using the Alumilite is that it turns, drills and threads like a dream resulting in some very nice, smooth threads, especially those tiny internal section threads!
 
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George, I agree but just make sure that you mix the a side before every time you pour if not the dye tends to settle and when you start getting to the end of the container the blanks may end up with some uncured "oily spots" bec of too much dye (my opinions).

And it does shine great also, this pen was MM to 12000 and then Novus 2.

BlackBeautyO.jpg
 
Thanks for the tip Eugene, I noticed that yesterday when the top 1/4" of the A side was watery looking. I tried one of the other resins a few years back that was the same.

I was playing around with one of my samples this morning and I think the shore hardness being 75 as apposed to the clear hardness of 80 gives the blank a slightly more "grippy" feel, which is nice for my sections, almost as "warm" feeling as my ebonite sections.
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.
 
George,
Thanks for the review. I always wondered about the black. I have casted with the white and love the way Alumilite machines. I have got to get a pressure set-up and will give it a go. Can you warm the black and use Don Ward's method for no pressure bubble free results? Just wondering.
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.

Alumilite is a polyurethane resin

Polyurethane 95A Durometer Solid Rods | U.S. Plastic Corp.
These are shore 95A which is pretty hard. Harder I think than alumilite.

at $20 for 5/8" by 36" it might be worth a shot. There are other hardness ratings available form USP as well.
 
George,
Thanks for the review. I always wondered about the black. I have casted with the white and love the way Alumilite machines. I have got to get a pressure set-up and will give it a go. Can you warm the black and use Don Ward's method for no pressure bubble free results? Just wondering.

I'm curious too, for those of us that still don't have pressure pots!
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.

Alumilite is a polyurethane resin

Polyurethane 95A Durometer Solid Rods | U.S. Plastic Corp.
These are shore 95A which is pretty hard. Harder I think than alumilite.

at $20 for 5/8" by 36" it might be worth a shot. There are other hardness ratings available form USP as well.

Note that the product you reference is a Shore A 95 compared to Alumilite at Shore D 75. Shore A is used for softer materials and Shore A 95 represents approximately Shore D 40. Therefore, the rod you list above is significantly softer than Alumilite.
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.

Alumilite is a polyurethane resin

Polyurethane 95A Durometer Solid Rods | U.S. Plastic Corp.
These are shore 95A which is pretty hard. Harder I think than alumilite.

at $20 for 5/8" by 36" it might be worth a shot. There are other hardness ratings available form USP as well.

Terry, I buy all my clear acrylic and acetal (delrin) from these folks and tried one of these rods a few years back but as Curtis stated, they are soft, too soft in my opinion to do a good job as either a finial, section or even an entire pen. They feel and work very similar to acetal.

Aside from the softness, comparing a 3/4" dia 36" long rod at $24 ($.66 per inch) to the Alumilite black at $36 for a 28oz kit, which will produce at least 96" of 3/4" blanks ($.37 per inch) would show the rods are twice as expensive.

To each their own, I found something I like. :wink:
 
George,
Thanks for the review. I always wondered about the black. I have casted with the white and love the way Alumilite machines. I have got to get a pressure set-up and will give it a go. Can you warm the black and use Don Ward's method for no pressure bubble free results? Just wondering.

Chris, I haven't tried heating the resin like Don does polyester but I would say NO..... don't even consider it, in my opinion a pressure pot is a must and if anything, I would cool the resin prior to use to give me more prep time if I needed it.

The working time for the regular black Alumilite is only 90 seconds, a lot quicker than the clear resin and while it allows plenty of time to mix then pour into the mold and toss it in the pressure pot, I wouldn't want to waste any more time doing anything else! :wink:
 
George,

If you like it and can swing it, you might try Alumilite RC3 Black. It has a longer open time (3 minutes) and is thinner than the Regular. It is also cheaper, however, it is only available in gallon kits. If your use justifies that much, then you might want to give it a look.
 
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George,

If you like it and can swing it, you might try Alumilite RC3 Black. It has a longer open time (3 minutes) and is thinner than the Regular. It is also cheaper, however, it is only available in gallon kits. If your use justifies that much, then you might want to give it a look.

Will the rc3 polish up as well as the regular black?

Also, in case anyone is interested in numbers, I just used up the entire 28 ounce kit of the regular black and it made 32 blanks measuring 3.3" long by 3/4" dia.

I found that casting my own blanks 3.3" long I can make any pen I have (kit or kitless) and have a heck of a lot less waste as apposed to buying 5"+ blanks and tossing about a third of the blank in the trash.
 
Will the rc3 polish up as well as the regular black?

It does to me but then again, I have never been one to have a problem polishing up any of the Alumilite formulations. If I had some, I would send you a small bit to try but I am out and have not had a real need for black in a while.
 
George,

Jon Piper (Goodturns) sent me a box full of black Alumilite blanks to try out as an alternative to ebonite for my kitless urushi pens. Alumilite is fantastic in every way and really has that ebonite feel. I have a few more cap and body sets to make before I start an urushi test batch but I'm confident the Alumilite will perform well. By far my favorite material to work with.
 
George,

Jon Piper (Goodturns) sent me a box full of black Alumilite blanks to try out as an alternative to ebonite for my kitless urushi pens. Alumilite is fantastic in every way and really has that ebonite feel. I have a few more cap and body sets to make before I start an urushi test batch but I'm confident the Alumilite will perform well. By far my favorite material to work with.

Looking forward to seeing photos in the future.
 
Reading this got me to thinking and I have 10 gators to do and most are black so I ordered the small kit for them to try out. Thanks again for the heads up.

90 second pot life is pretty short. Any advice on getting it done in time or just mix, stir, pour, pressure as fast as you can?
 
Reading this got me to thinking and I have 10 gators to do and most are black so I ordered the small kit for them to try out. Thanks again for the heads up.

90 second pot life is pretty short. Any advice on getting it done in time or just mix, stir, pour, pressure as fast as you can?
That's pretty much it but remember, it's 90 seconds from the time you pour the two parts together and start stirring.

Time is a funny thing, 90 seconds doesn't sound like a lot of mixing time but when I cast, I have my pressure pot ready one step away with the air hose attached so I simply mix the resin, stir well with my little (custom modified) spatula :wink:, pour it into my 12 cavity round mold, sit it in the pot, cover the mold then put the pot lid on and add the air. It seems that I have plenty of time to spare. Just for grins I should time the process just to see how long it actually takes.

The only advice that would come to mind is to have everything ready before you start mixing. You don't want to pour the resins together then start looking for a stir stick or start digging around for your mold!
 
Time is a funny thing, 90 seconds doesn't sound like a lot of mixing time but when I cast, I have my pressure pot ready one step away with the air hose attached so I simply mix the resin, stir well with my little (custom modified) spatula :wink:, pour it into my 12 cavity round mold, sit it in the pot, cover the mold then put the pot lid on and add the air. It seems that I have plenty of time to spare. Just for grins I should time the process just to see how long it actually takes.

The only advice that would come to mind is to have everything ready before you start mixing. You don't want to pour the resins together then start looking for a stir stick or start digging around for your mold!



That is pretty much how I do it. I have a jug of large Popsicle sticks that I have split long ways that I use to stir. I do my mixing on a large cutting board and everything has a place on the board and I know if something is missing. My pot sits next to the board on my shopsmith right next to my scale. I used to run a timer just to make sure I mixed long enough. I just got a new pot that tightens down much faster than my old one. With my old pot the lid could actually be "off" and about 25psi air would start leaking so I have to kneel down and make sure it is centered on the pot. Wasted time.
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.

Alumilite is a polyurethane resin

Polyurethane 95A Durometer Solid Rods | U.S. Plastic Corp.
These are shore 95A which is pretty hard. Harder I think than alumilite.

at $20 for 5/8" by 36" it might be worth a shot. There are other hardness ratings available form USP as well.

Note that the product you reference is a Shore A 95 compared to Alumilite at Shore D 75. Shore A is used for softer materials and Shore A 95 represents approximately Shore D 40. Therefore, the rod you list above is significantly softer than Alumilite.

You are correct, I misinterpreted the A. Sorry to all for any confusion. I believe USP also has Shore D 75 rods as well though.
 
Although I don't cast blanks, I'm always interested in the process. Now I need to find a source for black aluminite blanks so I can make some pens from it. If anyone has some to sell, please PM me.

Alumilite is a polyurethane resin

Polyurethane 95A Durometer Solid Rods | U.S. Plastic Corp.
These are shore 95A which is pretty hard. Harder I think than alumilite.

at $20 for 5/8" by 36" it might be worth a shot. There are other hardness ratings available form USP as well.

Terry, I buy all my clear acrylic and acetal (delrin) from these folks and tried one of these rods a few years back but as Curtis stated, they are soft, too soft in my opinion to do a good job as either a finial, section or even an entire pen. They feel and work very similar to acetal.

Aside from the softness, comparing a 3/4" dia 36" long rod at $24 ($.66 per inch) to the Alumilite black at $36 for a 28oz kit, which will produce at least 96" of 3/4" blanks ($.37 per inch) would show the rods are twice as expensive.

To each their own, I found something I like. :wink:

You are absolutely correct on your math, however, please add in the cost of a pressure pot, and all the various and sundry items, required for proper casting and the time required for doing the actual casting. Not to mention the amount that goes to waste learning the casting process, and the cost will rise drastically. A question was asked about acquiring Black Blanks, and I thought I'd be helpful mentioning looking for cast urethane rod. (Isn't that what forums are for?)

Personally, I have access to cast urethane rod in a variety of hardness ratings, diameters (I often get 1/2" and 5/8" from the guys on the floor), and colors including black and clear where I work as they are cast offs from the pouring gates for one of our molding processes. (Google Quantum Cast for specifics)

I'll now switch back to lurker mode....
 
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.................You are absolutely correct on your math, however, please add in the cost of a pressure pot, and all the various and sundry items, required for proper casting and the time required for doing the actual casting. Not to mention the amount that goes to waste learning the casting process, and the cost will rise drastically. A question was asked about acquiring Black Blanks, and I thought I'd be helpful mentioning looking for cast urethane rod. (Isn't that what forums are for?)

Personally, I have access to cast urethane rod in a variety of hardness ratings, diameters (I often get 1/2" and 5/8" from the guys on the floor), and colors including black and clear where I work as they are cast offs from the pouring gates for one of our molding processes. (Google Quantum Cast for specifics)

I'll now switch back to lurker mode....

Why stop there? Let's see, once I finish making the blanks I make them into pens which opens up a whole new bag of expenses like the 3 lathes and $10,000 worth of pen making equipment and tooling along with the $3,000 in kits and another few thousand in blanks and misc stuff. YEP, the smart thing would be to simply visit ebay and buy a few pens already made from one of those chinese outfits selling pens for $3.99 and do away with all this "make it yourself" nonsense but where would be the FUN in that?

Myself, I enjoy making blanks and it's not always about the cost or the time it takes to make something, after all, this is a pen MAKING forum.

This thread is about black Alumilite resin and you're right, the forum is for sharing so share away, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the TOPIC. Perhaps starting another thread discussing the benefits of buying polyurethane rods rather than wasting time learning to make your own might get some interesting conversation started, especially in a CASTING forum. :)
 
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Can you use mica powders in Alumilite Clear for color? If so would you mix it with the "A" side the combine with "B"?

I don't know about "Mica" but I use PearlEx pigments and never have a problem and without sounding too biased, Turn out some pretty decent looking blanks, at least to my tastes. :wink: When I use the pigments I almost always use a few drops of the Alumilite colored dye which really makes the pigments stand out.

I THINK you are supposed to mix the powder in after mixing the A and B together but I have always put mine in the "A" side since it's thinner and I make sure the pigment is really mixed well, then I mix A and B.
 
Can you use mica powders in Alumilite Clear for color? If so would you mix it with the "A" side the combine with "B"?

I don't know about "Mica" but I use PearlEx pigments and never have a problem and without sounding too biased, Turn out some pretty decent looking blanks, at least to my tastes. :wink: When I use the pigments I almost always use a few drops of the Alumilite colored dye which really makes the pigments stand out.

I THINK you are supposed to mix the powder in after mixing the A and B together but I have always put mine in the "A" side since it's thinner and I make sure the pigment is really mixed well, then I mix A and B.

+1, I too normally mix the powders is the a side and once mixed and I make sure there are no clumps then I add the B side and then do the final mix. Some of the powder colors tend to clump up so by putting it in the A side you have plenty of time to mix and then let it sit for a minute for any unmixed clumps to surface and then you can attack those.
 
.................You are absolutely correct on your math, however, please add in the cost of a pressure pot, and all the various and sundry items, required for proper casting and the time required for doing the actual casting. Not to mention the amount that goes to waste learning the casting process, and the cost will rise drastically. A question was asked about acquiring Black Blanks, and I thought I'd be helpful mentioning looking for cast urethane rod. (Isn't that what forums are for?)

Personally, I have access to cast urethane rod in a variety of hardness ratings, diameters (I often get 1/2" and 5/8" from the guys on the floor), and colors including black and clear where I work as they are cast offs from the pouring gates for one of our molding processes. (Google Quantum Cast for specifics)

I'll now switch back to lurker mode....

Why stop there? Let's see, once I finish making the blanks I make them into pens which opens up a whole new bag of expenses like the 3 lathes and $10,000 worth of pen making equipment and tooling along with the $3,000 in kits and another few thousand in blanks and misc stuff. YEP, the smart thing would be to simply visit ebay and buy a few pens already made from one of those chinese outfits selling pens for $3.99 and do away with all this "make it yourself" nonsense but where would be the FUN in that?

Myself, I enjoy making blanks and it's not always about the cost or the time it takes to make something, after all, this is a pen MAKING forum.

This thread is about black Alumilite resin and you're right, the forum is for sharing so share away, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the TOPIC. Perhaps starting another thread discussing the benefits of buying polyurethane rods rather than wasting time learning to make your own might get some interesting conversation started, especially in a CASTING forum. :)


Way over the top...chillax!!
 
.................You are absolutely correct on your math, however, please add in the cost of a pressure pot, and all the various and sundry items, required for proper casting and the time required for doing the actual casting. Not to mention the amount that goes to waste learning the casting process, and the cost will rise drastically. A question was asked about acquiring Black Blanks, and I thought I'd be helpful mentioning looking for cast urethane rod. (Isn't that what forums are for?)

Personally, I have access to cast urethane rod in a variety of hardness ratings, diameters (I often get 1/2" and 5/8" from the guys on the floor), and colors including black and clear where I work as they are cast offs from the pouring gates for one of our molding processes. (Google Quantum Cast for specifics)

I'll now switch back to lurker mode....

Why stop there? Let's see, once I finish making the blanks I make them into pens which opens up a whole new bag of expenses like the 3 lathes and $10,000 worth of pen making equipment and tooling along with the $3,000 in kits and another few thousand in blanks and misc stuff. YEP, the smart thing would be to simply visit ebay and buy a few pens already made from one of those chinese outfits selling pens for $3.99 and do away with all this "make it yourself" nonsense but where would be the FUN in that?

Myself, I enjoy making blanks and it's not always about the cost or the time it takes to make something, after all, this is a pen MAKING forum.

This thread is about black Alumilite resin and you're right, the forum is for sharing so share away, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the TOPIC. Perhaps starting another thread discussing the benefits of buying polyurethane rods rather than wasting time learning to make your own might get some interesting conversation started, especially in a CASTING forum. :)


Way over the top...chillax!!

Babba....meet George......everybody loves George. :beer:
 
OOOOH Man. Just got my Black Alumilite in. I had 3 Gator Jaw blanks waiting on it. Poured 3.75 of A then 3.75 of B and mixed and poured. Before I finished pouring the 3rd jaw it started setting up on me. One blank at a time folks, one blank at a time.
 
OOOOH Man. Just got my Black Alumilite in. I had 3 Gator Jaw blanks waiting on it. Poured 3.75 of A then 3.75 of B and mixed and poured. Before I finished pouring the 3rd jaw it started setting up on me. One blank at a time folks, one blank at a time.

Put the resin in the fridge and pour it cold, it buys you an extra couple of minutes. JUST DON'T LET ANY CONDENSATION ROLL OF THE CONTAINER AND INTO THE CAST bec it will look a lot different than what you expect ;).
Eugene.
 
Put the resin in the fridge and pour it cold, it buys you an extra couple of minutes. JUST DON'T LET ANY CONDENSATION ROLL OF THE CONTAINER AND INTO THE CAST bec it will look a lot different than what you expect ;).
Eugene.

Good info, Thanks Eugene. I have had the excess sitting in a cup and just the ambient humidity made it foam. Can't cast in the rain as long as the shop has no A/C
 
.................You are absolutely correct on your math, however, please add in the cost of a pressure pot, and all the various and sundry items, required for proper casting and the time required for doing the actual casting. Not to mention the amount that goes to waste learning the casting process, and the cost will rise drastically. A question was asked about acquiring Black Blanks, and I thought I'd be helpful mentioning looking for cast urethane rod. (Isn't that what forums are for?)

Personally, I have access to cast urethane rod in a variety of hardness ratings, diameters (I often get 1/2" and 5/8" from the guys on the floor), and colors including black and clear where I work as they are cast offs from the pouring gates for one of our molding processes. (Google Quantum Cast for specifics)

I'll now switch back to lurker mode....

Why stop there? Let's see, once I finish making the blanks I make them into pens which opens up a whole new bag of expenses like the 3 lathes and $10,000 worth of pen making equipment and tooling along with the $3,000 in kits and another few thousand in blanks and misc stuff. YEP, the smart thing would be to simply visit ebay and buy a few pens already made from one of those chinese outfits selling pens for $3.99 and do away with all this "make it yourself" nonsense but where would be the FUN in that?

Myself, I enjoy making blanks and it's not always about the cost or the time it takes to make something, after all, this is a pen MAKING forum.

This thread is about black Alumilite resin and you're right, the forum is for sharing so share away, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the TOPIC. Perhaps starting another thread discussing the benefits of buying polyurethane rods rather than wasting time learning to make your own might get some interesting conversation started, especially in a CASTING forum. :)


Way over the top...chillax!!

Babba....meet George......everybody loves George. :beer:

Cheers!
 
After reading Curtis' recommendation, I decided to try out some Alumilite RC3 Black. My first experience taught me not to top off the mold. This stuff can make a mess all over your saw table and pressure pot faster than you can wipe it up.

Anyway, now that I gotten most of the black off my hands (oh, and it's probably a good idea to wear disposable gloves too) and my tools (but not my floor), I can say that RC3 Black makes nice, opaque black blanks. On first try, it seems to shine up a little more easily than Alumilite Clear does.

Since it has a set-up time about the same as Alumilite White, I decided to try pouring the two together and see if they are compatible. I haven't turned a pen from the blanks yet, but so far the resuts look promising.

attachment.php


Regards,
Eric
 

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After reading Curtis' recommendation, I decided to try out some Alumilite RC3 Black. My first experience taught me not to top off the mold. This stuff can make a mess all over your saw table and pressure pot faster than you can wipe it up.

Anyway, now that I gotten most of the black off my hands (oh, and it's probably a good idea to wear disposable gloves too) and my tools (but not my floor), I can say that RC3 Black makes nice, opaque black blanks. On first try, it seems to shine up a little more easily than Alumilite Clear does.

Since it has a set-up time about the same as Alumilite White, I decided to try pouring the two together and see if they are compatible. I haven't turned a pen from the blanks yet, but so far the resuts look promising.

attachment.php


Regards,
Eric


They all look pretty good, please let us know how they turn...and maybe post a pix or two. Thanks!
 
...please let us know how they turn...and maybe post a pix or two.
I made a pen from the blank on the far right, and it turned quite nicely. It seems that the Alumilite White and the Alumilite RC3 Black are indeed compatible. The blank turned just like regular Alumilite. It polished up pretty well too. You can see the result at http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/two-faced-97362/.

Regards,
Eric
 
More fun with mixing

I've been experimenting more with mixing the two resins. Believe it or not, all the blanks below were made with the same ratio of black to white. The only difference is the way the two were poured together.

attachment.php


To me, the top row looks like white with black lines. The second looks predominately white on one side and black on the other. The third row looks mostly black. The fourth is definitely black with thin white streaks. I'd characterize the bottom row as "charcoal marble".

I can only surmise that the dye in Alumilite Black is very potent. It easily overwhelms the white when the two are mixed.

I hope that proves interesting.

Regards,
Eric
 

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