Best tool for cutting tiny pen blank segments

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spindlecraft

spindlecraft

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I apologize if this question has been asked a million times before, but I am looking for opinions on the best tool to use for cutting small segments.

Right now, I have an entry-level Skil table saw that I've been using to cut segments, and it is problematic for a couple of reasons.

1.) The miter gauge runners have a little t-notch cut into them, which makes making a custom sled a little bit difficult.

2.) I do not have a zero clearance insert for the saw, and am not sure if they make them for that particular saw.

3.) I do not have a thin-kerf saw blade.

Between these three things, my segments are hit or miss. I can get down to about 1/8", but even with those, I get a lot of blow out, rough edges, and the added discomfort of getting my fingers probably a bit too close to the blade.

There's gotta be a better way!

I'm in the market for a better solution to make cutting pen segments easier. I'd like to be able to achieve very thin segments (down to 1/16 of an inch), and more importantly, CONSISTENT results.

Can anybody make any good suggestions for tools/accessories/jigs that I could buy or make that would make my life easier?

Thanks in advance!
 
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How much money do you want to spent ?? You can buy a model making saw for $700 and up. You can buy a Harbor Freight Mini Table saw for around $50, add a carbide blade, and make a small sled to fit in the miter grooves. You can cut out a lexon insert for your table saw and raise the blade through it to make a zero clearance insert. Or you can do the safest thing and buy a table top band saw and make an adjustable sled for that. No need to get your fingers anywhere near the blade on this setup. I have done all of the above and find that the table saws just have to much power and speed to do safe and consistant cutting. Also look in the library on this site for jigs that fellow penturners have made and used for this purpose. I also have a setup using the Incra Jig for small, consistant, and narrow cuts. Look at the photos I posted today, ( Warning blured but grafic photos ) to show you what a table saw can do to your fingers. Jim S
 
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+1 on the entry level Skil table saw. It's all I could afford at the time. I don't care for it all that much.

I ground the "ears" off the T notches on mine, thinking I could cut some runners to fit in the slots for a sled, but the slots aren't uniform width from front to back.

I haven't seen zero clearance inserts for sale either. Most people make their own. The way the opening is layed out in this saw, I don't see how one could be made to fit in it and stay in it. It would have to be made out of some really thin plywood.

Hope somebody has some answers.
 
I don't know what the Skil saw is like on the sides, whether it is straight or not, hopefully straight, if not make some packers for the sides to make them straight and parallel.
I have a router bench that I had a similar problem with, the way I got around that, was to make a sled that was wider than the bench, using 3/4"ply, and used some hardwood runners on the side to guide it, running on the side of the bench. You have a zero fit plate, and you can attach a block for the angles.
Kryn
 
I would make a sled for your table saw. Inexpensive , maybe even free depending on what you have kicking around the shop. Frank Howarth has one that I copied...you can check it out on his YouTube page
 
docboy52 said:
I apologize if this question has been asked a million times before, but I am looking for opinions on the best tool to use for cutting small segments.

Right now, I have an entry-level Skil table saw that I've been using to cut segments, and it is problematic for a couple of reasons.

1.) The miter gauge runners have a little t-notch cut into them, which makes making a custom sled a little bit difficult.

2.) I do not have a zero clearance insert for the saw, and am not sure if they make them for that particular saw.

3.) I do not have a thin-kerf saw blade.

Between these three things, my segments are hit or miss. I can get down to about 1/8", but even with those, I get a lot of blow out, rough edges, and the added discomfort of getting my fingers probably a bit too close to the blade.

There's gotta be a better way!

I'm in the market for a better solution to make cutting pen segments easier. I'd like to be able to achieve very thin segments (down to 1/16 of an inch), and more importantly, CONSISTENT results.

Can anybody make any good suggestions for tools/accessories/jigs that I could buy or make that would make my life easier?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...



John welcome to the world of segmenting. First off there is no and I mean no such thing as not being able to adapt any machine or saw. You need to think outside the box.

First of all you will get no cleaner cut than a tablesaw blade. No bandsaw blade can duplicate that cut. With that said the advantage of a bandsaw is the saw kerf and the ability to make curve cuts. You say you do not have a thin kerf blade. my question is why not??? they make them for every saw on the market. You can use a 7-1/4' blade for what you are doing. You say you do not have a zero clearance plate. My question is why not??? They make them for every model on the market. If you can not find one then make one I am not familar with your saw. Maybe take a photo or give us a link to it or a model number. It would help to see what you are talking about. You say you do not have the ability to make a sled. My question is why not. Every saw has the ability to have sleds made for them. Just may take some thinking outside the box. The miter gauge can be use to attach a sled to very easily. It can also solve your zero clearance problem. A piece of plywood attached to some headers front and back. Make them tall enough so the blade does not cut all the way through. Make all kinds of angle blocks and attach to plywood. Make several of these sleds.

Now you say the miter slots are sloppy at best. This may lead to poor quality cuts. Another way around it is make a table top sled where you have a runner on both sides of the table top. In other words lay a piece of plywood or mdf board on the top and attach a runner underneath so that it rides on the side of the table top. Do this on both sides. You now locked the plywood from moving side to side. Again attach some headers so that the 2 pieces of plywood when cut do not seperate. Attach any angle blocks you want. Not that hard. If all fails get yourself a better saw.
 
I have a large table saw platform with a Delta Unisaw for most work but I also use a Makita 10 in table top saw with a 7 1/4 inch thin kerf blade from lowes for segmenting. It was a pretty cheap fix for the saw. It also has a crappy insert made from wood because I lost the original one. I built a sled out of 1/4 plywood and 2 pieces of Oak about 1 1/4 wide and 2 inches tall. The sled takes that problem away and I can still cut up to 3/4 blanks.
 
I have an older model Rigid table saw and use an Incra miter gauge sled. It makes easy work of cutting small segments, and the angles and always the same.


:biggrin::biggrin:
 
Those t-slots are a pain but John T. does have the right idea. Use the miter gauge that came with it and screw a piece of plywood to it. Takes care of the zero clearance fence and wobble, even better it you can get to miter gauge one for each side. The 71/4 inch blade is the cheapest and easiest way to get a thin kerf. Lots of good info in this thread for many applications.
 
Hi John,
I had to Google the saw to see the slots and "T" you referenced.
If I found the same saw:
The easiest solution is to cut your sled runners the full depth of the slot, then rebate the runner tops on both sides to avoid the T.
Or, take a file and file them off--it looks like the top is aluminum--and I don't see the purpose for the T unless it's to prevent the miter bar from lifting out.

Make a Zero-tolerance throat plate from hardboard.
The thin kerf saw blade isn't a necessity per se but it's a 5/8" arbor so there are plenty of blades available.
 
I have the same saw. My immediate fix is that I use my 14" bandsaw if I want to segment. My table saw is outside and well weathered. The slots are a pain. I love the ideas mentioned above about mounting hardwood to the sides and making a tabletop sled! Honestly, the table saw just scares me too much to work with iddy biddy pen blanks!
 
GaryMGg said:
Hi John,
I had to Google the saw to see the slots and "T" you referenced.
If I found the same saw:
The easiest solution is to cut your sled runners the full depth of the slot, then rebate the runner tops on both sides to avoid the T.
Or, take a file and file them off--it looks like the top is aluminum--and I don't see the purpose for the T unless it's to prevent the miter bar from lifting out.

Make a Zero-tolerance throat plate from hardboard.
The thin kerf saw blade isn't a necessity per se but it's a 5/8" arbor so there are plenty of blades available.
Click to expand...

That is the purpose of the dovetailed slots. There are a few saws that use that system. You can always make the same type runners if you have a router and a dovetail bit. Not hard at all.
 
To join the thread; While you can make a zero clearance insert, if you are using a sled, the insert isn't important. I remove the insert entirely when using my sled.
 
I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned the Byrnes Model makers table saw by brand. Byrnes Model Machines - Table Saw They are expensive, but the are very probably the best saw available for making small segments. I was using mine the other day and was able to make cuts in both wood and acrylic so thin that you could almost see through them. The cuts are smooth as glass and although it only has a four inch blade, I easily cuts through 3/4 inch Truestone blanks as easily as it does wood. One of the best investments I've made in my shop.

Jim Smith
 
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