Barrel Trimmer Question

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
D

dell2028

Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Savannah, GA
I'm working through my first pen and have run into an issue. I glued in my barrel and let it dry 24 hours and used the barrel trimmer. When trying to put the blanks on the mandrel, the tubes wouldn't go on the shaft. I looked at some of the other tubes and they fit fine. When looking at the tubes, they appear thicker than the other tubes. Also, the barrel trimmer seems to be burning the wood more than cutting it. Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Barrel Trimmers: Several differing opinions on their use. The barrel trimmer must be SHARP, or it will burn the wood as you noted. I have had three with two being carbide. I gave them away and they are still being used. However, there are a couple of ways to trim the end flush and square with sanding jigs. I have what is called a "Sanding Mill". Some have a similar jig for sanding it flush by using the lathe with a sanding disk and jig on it. MUCH better control through sanding.

IF you do want to use a barrel trimmer, there are two that are head and shoulders above the rest: Woodpeckers barrel trimmer and Whiteside barrel trimmer. Both have carbide cutters and are exceptionally sharp and have a price to match. These two companies make very high quality products.

AS to putting blanks on the mandrel, you mentioned - a thicker tube. I wouldn't know about that, but it has been quite common for those new to turning to get glue inside the tube and that causes considerable trouble down the road. I'm not saying that you have glue inside the tube but I ask to please double check that.
 
You could give your barrel trimmer another chance. There are a couple of videos on Youtube showing how to sharpen them.
As Hank said they must be sharp.
 
Get a drill a smooth close fit in a clean brass ,make and glue a handle and use it to clean out the glued blank from either end. Use calipers it saves splitting blanks ie the internal and external joint should be a press fit. With the proliferation of pen kits I despair with the burdens of checking them all out.Life was so much more simple using the Slimline and Streamline centre band. I also use an adjustable 1/4 inch reamer with my slims,a go no go piece of turned brass rod before I rough up and use the brass,you will be amazed at the saving of blanks and quality of product going the extra mile.I used to drill and glue a couple hundred blanks at a time,no need these days thank goodness.A step drill can be your best friend also.I use punches for mandrels and a 12 inch disk sander to square all my pen blanks with accuracy and success.Dedicated tools alow smooth making possible ,when amortised they become cheap as chips IMHO.

Peter.
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. A round file was able to quickly clean up the ends and now the blanks go easily on the mandrel. I'm going to look look at the barrel trimmer and either sharpening it or seeing if Rockler will replace it as it was dull right out of the box. Thanks again everyone for the help.
 
Mr Vic said:
A barrel trimmer can cause a burr inside the tube or as Kenny said round over. Pick up a deburr tool tool at your local gun shop or a Countersink Tool at Harbor Freight.

Hornady Deluxe 4-Blade Chamfer Deburring Tool (midwayusa.com)

3-In-1 Hex Bit Countersink Tool (harborfreight.com)
Click to expand...

As @Mr Vic posted, I use the Hornady chamfer tool and got it when I was doing a lot of competitive shooting. Not only does chamfering the blanks ends just a bit help get them on the mandrel, it also helps when putting the pressed in pieces in place. I've yet to snap the wood on any pen blanks when seating the various components but did prior to chamfering. Works exactly the same while reloading and seating the bullets. I do have a rotary crank that I got from Montgomery Wards years ago so I can do a lot of blanks in just a matter of minutes.
 
dell2028 said:
I'm working through my first pen and have run into an issue. I glued in my barrel and let it dry 24 hours and used the barrel trimmer. When trying to put the blanks on the mandrel, the tubes wouldn't go on the shaft. I looked at some of the other tubes and they fit fine. When looking at the tubes, they appear thicker than the other tubes. Also, the barrel trimmer seems to be burning the wood more than cutting it. Thanks in advance for the help.
Click to expand...
I tried everything some ten years ago and finally discovered that a round nose scraper will cut the wood/acrylic to trim the ends of a blank perfectly if sharp. No barrel trimmers for me! The ends are square and clean. If there is any debris in the barrel a 20 ga shotgun brush on a short handle cleans the insides to a T. P.
 
dell2028 said:
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. A round file was able to quickly clean up the ends and now the blanks go easily on the mandrel. I'm going to look look at the barrel trimmer and either sharpening it or seeing if Rockler will replace it as it was dull right out of the box. Thanks again everyone for the help.
Click to expand...
Even with a razor sharp barrel trimmer you can still get a burr. I use the deburring tool even if I sand instead of a barrel trimer. Eases assembly an cheap insurance.
 
Here it what I use and a steal at $3 from Harbor Freight.
IMG_0034.JPG
. Great for deburring and removing glue from inside the tubes. The long taper is forgiving and won't over chamfer the ends of the tubes.

Danny


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom