Bandsaw blades...

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penhead

penhead

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Aug 21, 2004
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Chesapeake, Virginia, USA.
With any luck, there is a new bandsaw in my near future.
No idea what the blade that comes with the saw will be like, but I was considering replacing it with what might be a better quality blade such as a Timberwolf or Lenox.
In researching the different blades I realized there is 'much' that I don't know about bandsaw blades.

Seems someone here on IAP was offering at one time, or maybe a group buy, or maybe it was just general info..??

My search doesn't seem to find anything, a little help here maybe...thanks..!
 
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I have only used the Timberwolf blades. I've been happy with them. When I first wanted to buy blades to replace the stock blade I called Timberwolf. The guy must have spent at least half an hour talking with me on the phone telling me about bandsaw blades and advicing me what to get. He was very helpful.
 
John I get mine from Suffolk Machinery http://suffolkmachinery.com they sell Timber Wolf blades. They also have a wealth of information on blade selection and use. They will also answer any questions you might have regarding their blades and use. Special if you can use 4 blades, buy 3 and get 1 free. Nice savings over cost from retail sales. I have been very happy with Timber Wolf blades.
 
penhead said:
So no one buys bandsaw blades..? Thats interesting.
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There are links to at least 3 sources in the thread I posted. If you search "bandsaw + blades" you will find several other threads with more sources. I use Olson blades that I buy at Woodcraft, at least for the most part. They also sell Timberwolf. I've tried Timberwolf blades but have not noticed enough of a difference to justify the extra cost. I don't do a lot of heavy duty sawing though.
 
I appreciate all comments..!

But I wasn't asking for sources, I was trying to figure out the difference in 'kinds' of blades and is there an advantage of Lenox over Timberwolf.

There are different kinds of metals that different blades are made of.

On this website: http://www.bandsawbladesdirect.com/ for instance there are several blades listed that cut wood and i guess its me, but i just dont know which would be better:
Lenox flex back versatile carbon steel blade (wood cutting applications)
Lenox #32 wood & core band (specialized wood cutting applications)
Lenox WOODMASTER C Carbon Steel Blades (General purposed cutting applications)
WOODMASTER CT Carbide Tipped Blades (works great in hardwoods)
 
I use Lennox bi-metalic for most work (1/4 inch) -- cost 3 times as much and last many time longer. These are metal cuttning bandsaw blades with high speed steel blade tips. For cutting rough stuff like logs they keep going.
 
Here is the rules of thumb as I learned them
any single metal blade (cheap blade) if you are going to cut material that is "trash wood" Trash means wood that you really have no idea what could be inside it such as old salvaged lumber or logs.
Bi metal blades are a compromise between expensive hard metal teeth that will wear longer and the hi end expensive blades. basically the teeth are made of a different metal than the body of the blade. good value for the money but you don't want to damage the teeth on nails sand and stone that can be found often in trash wood.

top end expensive blades are mostly for production work where you will go to the trouble of having them resharpened etc. a carbide tooth blade is nice, will wear a long time, expensive, and for the most part a real waste of money in the typical home shop.

as for size, tooth count etc. the size of the blade is actually figured from the smallest diameter circle you would want to cut with it. if what you want to cut are straight lines go with the larges blade your saw will hold.

tooth count. this is also figured from the thickness of the material you want to cut. one guide i have heard is that you want at least three teeth to be in the material at all times. for wood working the quality of the final cut has more to do with what tooth count and type you actually choose. basically there is far more info in all that than can be written in a post. for cuttin logs into slabs I would go with soemthing in the 3 tpi range.

as far as tooth shape or style. basically you are not ready to bother with that at this point. don't feel bad most people never are. at best tell the people you are buying blades from what you will be using them for. they should be able to make that choice for you. in a nut shell tooth shape and style determines things like how fast the blade will cut, how smooth a cut it will make, can prevent tear out. and basically effect cut quality in some way. fast and rough or slow and smooth is basically the balance you are playing with here. it will also effect which direction the blade is meant to cut through the wood as in a cross cut or rip blade. most blades are simply combo but you really do not want to cross cut with a rip blade or rip with a cross cut blade. the effect will be less than satisfactory.
tooth type also determines the type of material the blade cuts. an extreme example would be a wood blade and a metal blade. less obvious tooth types would be a finish cutting plywood blade and a rough cut combo blade. there are differences in the shape, size, number and angles of the teeth that most likely you will never know. basically you will come to your favorite blade by trying some and deciding for yourself never knowing why one worked better or worse than the others at all. Timberwolf or Lennox either one are a good place to start considering they already have the stamp of approval from others.
 
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I prefer Lenox blades over Timberwolf blades. I have used both extensively.

About the different metals...Think about your turning tools...do you use carbon steel tools? Most likely not since most turning tools now days are made of HSS steel. Why? because HSS last a lot longer between sharpening.

Carbon steel blades dull pretty quick. Bi-metal lasts a lot longer and can handle the occasional nail if you happen to hit one. They will not, however, handle rocks! I know this for a fact! I actually have both cheap carbon steel blades and bi-metal blades. I use my carbon steel blades when I am cutting up mescalbean and agarita root balls since they more often than not have hidden rocks in them. I would much rather trash a $20 carbon steel blade than I would a $46 bi-metal blade.

I use my bi-metals for all other stuff where I know the stock is good and clean. They stay sharp a LOT longer than the carbon blades. Carbide would be even better if I did a lot of re-sawing but I don't so I haven't spent the money on them.

Tooth count in a nutshell...the more teeth, the smoother but slower the cut. Less teeth, the faster but rougher the cut.
 
3/8"-6tpi is a good all around blade. I keep one in my bandsaw and it handles 90% of all my cutting needs. The three other blades I use are 1/4"-6tpi(sharp curves), 1/2"-3tpi(re-saw blade) and a 1/2"-16tpi metal cutting blade(XLNT for cutting antler without getting those nasty "catches"). These four blades are all I need but YMMV.:wink:
Bi-metal is definitely the way to go.
 
Thanks for all the replies...I think I go forth now armed with knowledge :)
Sounds like I will get some practice changing blades...one for the logs and one for the resaw..

If anyone is interested in the new Steelcity 14" bandsaw, the one with granite table and lower wheel, the price dropped when they released it last month...
 
Hard to answer your question not knowing what size bandsaw your buying. No one bandsaw blade will meet your needs, there are some compromises along the way. Experience with your saw will tell what blades work best.

Blade selection really comes down to what you want to cut, teeth per inch/blade set, blade width, and gauge. Don't forget rate of feed.

If you are buying a 14" wheel bandsaw, do not recommend using any blade higher than .025 gauge. Carbon flex back, timber wolf and some furniture bands will serve you well.
Bi-metal and carbide tip blades come .035 gauge. So would not recommend those blades for a 14" bandsaw. Best size wheels for these blades is 18" or larger.

Good luck with your new bandsaw!
 
I agree with Daniel on alot of his points but the one about the carbide blade for home use. If you are doing alot of resawing and you are resawing exotics like I do I suggest a carbide blade. I use the Lennox trimaster carbide blade and would highly recomend it. It is a 3/4" blade that is used on my 14" Delta bandsaw. It does not give you that perfect smooth ready to use veneer sliver. But I use a drum sander to sweeten it up. Cutting exotics will dull a blade mighty fast. They are not cheap but like everything you get what you pay for. I also use Timberwolf blades for most everything else. Just bought some metal cutting blades for cutting metals and some hard resins. Work great. If you are resawing logs to just ize them and do not know what the content is, you might be well served to get a carbide blade. Just a thought. Good luck.
 
Didn't realize size mattered :)
but for the record, it will be a Steelcity 14" bandsaw (#50130), with 12" resaw capacity, and a 105" length blade.

I agree that experience with different blades would be the best lessons.

Not sure I understand why you suggest no larger than 1/4" blade,
according to Steelcity 1/8" is minimum size, and 3/4" is the max.

I was thinking that with the larger 3/4" blade with small tooth count would be the best for ripping some of the small logs in to lumber..?


Wildman said:
Hard to answer your question not knowing what size bandsaw your buying. No one bandsaw blade will meet your needs, there are some compromises along the way. Experience with your saw will tell what blades work best.

Blade selection really comes down to what you want to cut, teeth per inch/blade set, blade width, and gauge. Don't forget rate of feed.

If you are buying a 14" wheel bandsaw, do not recommend using any blade higher than .025 gauge. Carbon flex back, timber wolf and some furniture bands will serve you well.
Bi-metal and carbide tip blades come .035 gauge. So would not recommend those blades for a 14" bandsaw. Best size wheels for these blades is 18" or larger.

Good luck with your new bandsaw!
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And that will be one of the other purposes of the new bandsaw, cutting bookmatches and veneer...at least gonna try :)

I have collected a bit of exotics and other fine woods for several years, but don't need them quite as thick as they are. Some of the less expensive domestic woods I don't mind running through the jointer/planer and thinning down, rather not do that if I don't have to :)

Any kind of tool, including blades it seems, is what experience tells you works best for you. Several years ago I purchased the Steelcity drum sander when they first came out, and have those years of troublefree service from it..no problems..!..which is why I will be trying the new bandsaw from Steelcity.



jttheclockman said:
I agree with Daniel on alot of his points but the one about the carbide blade for home use. If you are doing alot of resawing and you are resawing exotics like I do I suggest a carbide blade. I use the Lennox trimaster carbide blade and would highly recomend it. It is a 3/4" blade that is used on my 14" Delta bandsaw. It does not give you that perfect smooth ready to use veneer sliver. But I use a drum sander to sweeten it up. Cutting exotics will dull a blade mighty fast. They are not cheap but like everything you get what you pay for. I also use Timberwolf blades for most everything else. Just bought some metal cutting blades for cutting metals and some hard resins. Work great. If you are resawing logs to just ize them and do not know what the content is, you might be well served to get a carbide blade. Just a thought. Good luck.
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Penhead, when talking about .025 gauge am talking about blade thickness not width of the blade. Thickness of the blade required depends upon diameter of the wheels. My user's manual does not provide information about blade thickness. My "Bandsaw Handbook, by Mark Duginske," explains blade thickness. My user's manual does state blade length (92 ½") & width of blades (1/8 -3/4") used with my bandsaw. Even if added a riser block and changed blade length to 105" would still use bandsaw wheel size to determine blade thickness.

Like earlier poster have found blades 3/8" wide regardless of set or TPI work well with my bandsaw. Use Lenox carbon flex back bands, but would not mind using either a Suffox timberwolf or Highland hardware's wood slicer blades.

You have to watch your tension on Bi-metal & some carbide blades. Some brands .035 thick require a lot more tension than my saw was designed for.
 
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