Band saw sled

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onewaywood

onewaywood

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Joined
Aug 28, 2004
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248
Location
Madison, WI, USA.
Could someone please post pictures of a sled for cutting 45 angles on the band saw
simply ones please I'm terrible at making jigs.
 
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File005.JPG
 
found that real quick doing a net search. sort of shows my idea only the little angle piece woudl be fixed on a piece of plywood, MDF or whatever to make a true sled.
 
onewaywood said:
I did after 30 min. I gave up Ok call me stupid but don't see how that Jig cut's 45's
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Same way that a table saw sled works. The jig holds the wood at a 45 degree angle to the blade. The jig with the wood slides in the miter gauge slot. With a jig like that, you'd need an angle finder to make sure it is at 45 degrees.
 
Rollerbob said:
Thinking I see a business classified coming up!:wink:
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I think some crafty wood working person could do a bang up business, matter of fact so could a retired machinist, if they had the time, marking the degree segments in 5 degree increments possibly?? :hammer::rolleyes::thunder:
 
I'm working on one now. I will post some pictures once it is in a stage that it is understandable, and proven.
Ken, I would rather see the increments in either 1 or 2 degrees. But I'm a little picky about things. :biggrin:
 
Very simply take a flat board and put a strip of wood on the back side. Glue it nail it staple it or whatever. Now attach iot to your miter gauge and set the guage to 45 degree or whatever degree you want. Could not be simplier. Hot glue stop blocks. Place toggle clamps and all kinds of gizmos on it.
Another method is to take a flat board. glue it to some runners to fit in the miter slot. Now attach a another strip of wood in the back. Make it so it pivots so you can change to any angle you want. If you google sleds you will see photos of others. Here is a sled for a tablesaw that can be easily adapted for a bandsaw.

http://home.comcast.net/~kvaughn65/pivot_sled2.jpg
 
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You guys are right, it is very simple to make a sled, but what I am designing will make the compound angles that I need to make for some of the segmenting. I also want to use glide-locks to keep it from having any give at all. I am planning on a guide that will allow me to get the most repeat exact angles. In other words, I want it all and then some.:)
 
Told ya!! :biggrin: Rob and myself expect a cut. Rob for requesting, me for mentioning. I do take paypal!!!:tongue: 25% is good for me. You will have to negotiate with Rob on his part!:rolleyes:
 
wolftat said:
I'm working on one now. I will post some pictures once it is in a stage that it is understandable, and proven.
Ken, I would rather see the increments in either 1 or 2 degrees. But I'm a little picky about things. :biggrin:
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Neil It could be done, I started to do one for my POC 9 in saw, But now I gots me a big old 12 in crapsman,actually the saw has gotten more use in the week I've had it than it has had since it was new, also making a resaw fence for it and even though it has a miter for it I still have the Rhino file I was drawing to make the sled for my old one, The degree thing is going to be dependent on the size of the protractor, 2.5 wouldn't be bad using a 6 in semi circle, using oilite bushings at the pivot point would be easy enough, too bad there wouldn't be an acceptable way to line the edges of the sliding bar or the channel with UHMW problem would be getting the degree markings legible. I have some 10 degree engraving cutters, I guess even a corian slide would work, Maybe there is a use for that stuff.
 
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One other thing to note with a bandsaw your accuracy is not as reliable as a tablesaw because of the thiness of the blade and the rigidity of it. A bandsaw blade will twist so if that is not a bother then a sled is easy to build even what you are talking about. Do a google search and do an image search and you will see some nice ones.
 
compound miter band saw. Does your table tilt? I ask only because the table on my band saw does. that is how I achieve one angle. the sled produces the other. repeating is not really that easy to do in regard to being able to set the saw up each time you need to make a particular cut.
 
I have a Delta and a Shopsmith band saws and neither is a precision instrument. Rough cutting and close approximations are what they are great in accomplishing. -- fast flexible and easy to use.

You will need a follow up process for adding precision if you are using band saws to approximate the work.

Even when I have a wide resaw blade in and do careful setup, I need to followup to get the surface trued.

You can overcome some of the lack of precision inherent in the gear with process controls that minimize the variability, but you cannot do all things bandsaw with that approach -- I rough cut blanks, cope miters, rip wet wood, cut corners off bowl blanks, and lot of other utility tasks which are not compatible with precision. It takes time to change blades and cleanup the settings before resaw for thick veneers (the most precise work I do with a bandsaw).
 
Ken, I have found that by adding a set of Carter guides, my bandsaw went for acceptable to my only saw. I use it for cutting very small segments and inlay work. I am able to get some extremely thin venerers from it. It has improved even more since I switched to a Laguna Resaw King carbide blade. This saw will now do almost everything I want it to do. Now all I need it the sled to give me the angles that I can use repeatedly and keep whats left of my fingers out of the way of the blade. The saw that I am using is a Rikon 10-325 14"deluxe with micro adjust bearings. I got it at a good price and it is worth every dime Ipaid for it.
 
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Rollerbob said:
Just curious, what size Blade are you using.... Tpi,etc?
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The blade is a Laguna Resaw King. It is 111" long 3/4" wide and I believe it is 3tpi. This thing cuts great and leaves an edge that is almost polished. I have shelved the rest of my blades since getting this one. They are offered for sale in the business classifieds every now and then and I am happy I bought ine.
 
Thank for the lead Neil -- I use high speed steel bimetalic blades in the Delta with roller guides (not carter though) for most work. Will take a look at carter. I get good resaw with the resaw blade from Highland but not "almost polished". I can get that from the Jet drum sander with fine grits and slow feeds.

Will watch for the next special on carbide blades - though I expect I do not want to run green rounds and rough blanks through that blade. I usually have a 1/8 blade in the shopsmith and use it as an oversized semiscroll saw for band saw boxes and the like.
 
When I make a bandsw box, I usually will pull the guides off and use a Carter Stabilizer with a 3/16" blade. It make a circle of 7/8" in 4" black walnut, it's another pretty cool toy for the saw. If you go to their site, they have a great demo. I hate to sound like a salesman for them, but since I have found a couple of products that actually do the job they say they will, I like to let it be known.
 
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