Arrgh... any suggestions on how to break out the tube from stuck CA
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SteveG
Member
3 lb sledge hammer. Anything heavier is overkill.
Actual serious response: Are you willing to sacrifice the wood portion, carefully destroying it to remove from the tube, thus able to reuse the kit components. You could first try the acetone, proceeding with the wood sacrifice if acetone is unsuccessful.
Actual serious response: Are you willing to sacrifice the wood portion, carefully destroying it to remove from the tube, thus able to reuse the kit components. You could first try the acetone, proceeding with the wood sacrifice if acetone is unsuccessful.
egnald
Member
Ouch - that's too bad.
Most of the trench lighters I've seen like that one do not get the blank glued onto the brass lighter tube. The blank is only held on by the bottom cap/fill-nut so that they can be removed for both changing the flint without the knurl damaging the blank and to prevent getting lighter fluid on the blank when filling the lighter.
Since the main brass tube on the lighter is not removable, Michelle Bagley at Drop Anchor Creations had a custom one made that does slip over the body of the lighter kit they sell. (The tube has just a tiny bit larger inside diameter than a standard 12.5mm pen tube). This custom tube provides an outer tube that can be glued into a blank to provide support while turning and finishing. She sells the custom tube and custom made mandrel and TBC bushings for it too.
I hope you find a way to salvage it. It is a very attractive blank.
Dave
Most of the trench lighters I've seen like that one do not get the blank glued onto the brass lighter tube. The blank is only held on by the bottom cap/fill-nut so that they can be removed for both changing the flint without the knurl damaging the blank and to prevent getting lighter fluid on the blank when filling the lighter.
Since the main brass tube on the lighter is not removable, Michelle Bagley at Drop Anchor Creations had a custom one made that does slip over the body of the lighter kit they sell. (The tube has just a tiny bit larger inside diameter than a standard 12.5mm pen tube). This custom tube provides an outer tube that can be glued into a blank to provide support while turning and finishing. She sells the custom tube and custom made mandrel and TBC bushings for it too.
I hope you find a way to salvage it. It is a very attractive blank.
Dave
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Curly
Member
Cut the tube close to the wood and carefully sand it flush. Clean any glue inside the wood in the end that didn't get the brass. Glue a new piece of brass tube in it and trim it flush too. Now you have a two part brass tube which should function like a single tube does. Maybe don't sell it but keep it for yourself to enjoy.
If I have to, I will. I should amend my statement to say that acetone is my 2nd to last option. Just I'm rarely happy with my CA finishes and I'm happy with this one. It's a little off in the picture because I'd just pulled it out of the freezer because something something metal contracts more something.... but it is one of my better finishes.
I've been gluing 'em in as I turn them pretty close to the bushing size and I'm concerned with how delicate the shells are. It's also why this one got a CA finish.
I'd picked up her bushings for these on my last order but hadn't known about the sleeves though. I'll certainly be picking up a crop of them on the next order. I've been working with sanded down bushings from the rando pile to provide body support. Though I'm tracking on 12mm or 31/64 for the inner diameter of the shell.
Cocobolo with just a touch of sap wood. Probably one of the best grains patterns I have, er had, in house right now. Normally I'd just cry $%@!@ at let slip the scrapers of do-over, but .... fuuuuuuu..... this one is a bit harder to let go.
Appreciate that but it won't work in this case I'm afraid. It has a threaded bottom and the chamber is meant to hold lighter fluid.
Mortalis
Member
This is the second question this week related to CA and premature hardening.
Not to rub salt in the wound but this is the exact reason I do not use CA for tube gluing. I had this happen once.....
2 part epoxy all the way. Plenty of work time.
Not to rub salt in the wound but this is the exact reason I do not use CA for tube gluing. I had this happen once.....
2 part epoxy all the way. Plenty of work time.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
In fifteen years and thousands of pens done with CA, I believe I had this problem fewer than a dozen times.
BUT, there is nothing wrong with changing if you and CA are not compatible!!
BUT, there is nothing wrong with changing if you and CA are not compatible!!
jttheclockman
Member
A little confused here. Went back to reread the post and you did not say how this happened. The blank looks turned down and finished so how is the tube not in it already? Please explain. My simple mind is working overtime here.
3 lb sledge hammer. Anything heavier is overkill.
Turns out you weren't far off. Bench vise, not a hammer, but the 'big thunk' theory is the same.
So, acetone ended up being my 3rd to the last option. (along with a fanatical devotion to the Pope). Popped it in a vise with padding to protect the top and a flat piece of metal to equalize the force on the bottom and with some very slow turns it ended up the CA gave up before the bottom of the shell did.
Maybe I didn't need to worry about how strong the shell was all along.
Still ended up with enough dings that I'm not comfortable selling it. The CA is still wedged in there and I can't get the shell off to repair it, but I won't be embarrassed to gift this one.
edit : @Mortalis - yeah, I'm normally on team epoxy all the time but I've gotten away with this specifically before with CA. Call this a lesson learned (again) on the high cost of taking the easy way.
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egnald
Member
Ahhhh Success. Congratulations. - Dave
And thanks for the pointer to the shells that Michelle has. At a buck each they are an easy investment.
egnald
Member
Hi John, the tube on these is integral to the lighter and doesn't come off. The blanks are made and finished before they are put on the tube. - DaveA little confused here. Went back to reread the post and you did not say how this happened. The blank looks turned down and finished so how is the tube not in it already? Please explain. My simple mind is working overtime here.
What Dave said. These are a single unit where you turn the blank into a shell and then slip it on to the lighter.
This time my thick CA just set way faster than normal - possibly due to age of the CA and/or a higher humidity in the garage due to recent rains.
Though Dave - it turns out the cap can come off the tube. It's threaded with a gasket on that end too - which is obvious in hindsight. Still can't turn the blank directly on the tube but it will make replacing the wick a heck of a lot easier.
Woodchipper
Member
"3 lb sledge hammer. Anything heavier is overkill."
There is a saying: Don't force it. Use a bigger hammer.
I did two blanks with paint and two part epoxy yesterday. Messy and much more "involved" than putting CA on the tube. I think I have the sequence now to make it a bit more efficient.
"There is a saying: Don't force it. Use a bigger hammer.
I did two blanks with paint and two part epoxy yesterday. Messy and much more "involved" than putting CA on the tube. I think I have the sequence now to make it a bit more efficient.
Gary Beasley
Member
If you can get enough heat to the metal part without causing damage the CA will melt and allow the tube to be pushed the rest of the way in. I've done it with a Bic lighter held at the end of the tube.