ARRGG ... Bubbles!

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socdad

socdad

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Feb 2, 2010
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Location
Dayton, Ohio
I just got back into casting feather blanks and after a few sets that came out bubble free I have hit a streak of two sets (Silver Pheasant) in a row that are completely unusable. The first had a few bubbles near the end of each blank and the second could easily be taken for freshly poured tonic water! The bubbles are small and very close to the feathers. They look almost like frost …:mad:

I use the same procedure each time (Don Wards "Casting Bubble Free" …" from the library). The only thing I can think of is the temp of the ultra sonic cleaner might be slightly higher (or lower) each time … Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated ….
 
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I wish the process were 100% successful. I have the same problem with my snake skins. Several casts and all are perfect then the casting stars are out of alignment and I get exactly what you describe.

I can only offer a few suggestions. I really think the problem is air escaping from inside the tube. PR heats as it cures and may cause the air inside the tubes to expand. So, make sure the ends are plugged and plugged tightly.

You may consider packing the tube with play dough leaving just enough space on the ends for the plugs you use. I know this adds a step but can be worth it.

I hate it when my snake blanks come out unuseable because of the amount of work to get them ready. I can only imagine how much more work is required for feather blanks. I do know how you feel.
Good luck and maybe others will give some suggestions.
Do a good turn daily!
Don



socdad said:
I just got back into casting feather blanks and after a few sets that came out bubble free I have hit a streak of two sets (Silver Pheasant) in a row that are completely unusable. The first had a few bubbles near the end of each blank and the second could easily be taken for freshly poured tonic water! The bubbles are small and very close to the feathers. They look almost like frost …:mad:

I use the same procedure each time (Don Wards "Casting Bubble Free" …" from the library). The only thing I can think of is the temp of the ultra sonic cleaner might be slightly higher (or lower) each time … Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated ….
Click to expand...
 
I will add some thing that most people tend to forget when dealing with feathers. All the quill and connecting tubing that the down and feathers is attached to the main quill ARE HOLLOW, there fore after being removed they will be filed with air. Not having cast any feathers or snake skins I can't offer any suggestions.

From 20 plus years breeding and having parrots and other cage birds. It all ways amazed me how much blood could come out of the smallest feather quill if it wasn't properly removed when broken off or pulled and snapped off by another bird.

That may be the source of the small bubbles on the feather blanks, and under the scales or trapped in the skins capillaries, and why it doesn't happen every time either feathers or skins.
:clown:
 
PTsideshow said:
From 20 plus years breeding and having parrots and other cage birds. It all ways amazed me how much blood could come out of the smallest feather quill if it wasn't properly removed when broken off or pulled and snapped off by another bird.

That may be the source of the small bubbles on the feather blanks, and under the scales or trapped in the skins capillaries, and why it doesn't happen every time either feathers or skins.
:clown:
Click to expand...

not a bad explanation! However, when i cast my snakeskin blanks, I have found my biggest problem which causes the air bubbles is heat. In turn, shrinkage will result, and that is not good. The way i prevent that is to back off from the hot bath that i give the resin prior to casting. In the winter time i can use more heat but in the summer time i back off of the heat. The way i do this is by regulating the amount of time in the bath, 480 seconds in hot bath during winter(texas winter that is[down to 30degrees]) and 280 seconds in hot bath during summer. These times are what work for me, and results will vary.
 
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Thanks to all for the info …

I use Silmar 41 Clear Polyester Casting Resin.

I have thought about the hollow shank in the feathers; after gluing the feathers to the tube with fly head cement I allow it to set overnight. I then cover the blank with thin CA and allow that to set overnight. That should seal any air pockets.

Sound like I am overheating the resin. Using the old adage more is better I've been heating the resin several cycles. Looks like 'more is better' works about as well with resin as Jack Daniel's!
 
I saw your note about glueing the feathers on with fly tying head cement...where dio you get that...locally.......and is epoxy or CA not feasible...i was just about to start...and wanted to make sure I did not use teh wrong stuff....them feathers is costly.

Also...I sprayed the feather with fixitive...and it seems to hold together better...allowing me to roll it on the tube...is gluing the bottom with epoxy or tackly glue not going to work...

Thanks
 
I purchase Fly Head Cement at a local shop (Fisherman's Headquarters in Dayton) but it is available at Bass Pro shops … I use the one with the black label (NOT the water base). I apply it with a fly head cement applicator bottle.
 
Thanks...there a Bass PS nearby...what is the appeal of this different glue?...thin...ease...dry time...smooth...just trying to understand.
 
I have tried several different glues / epoxies, including the water base fly head cement (dries cloudy). I keep going back to this product … it is simple to apply (soak the feather with several drops), allows ample time to apply the feather to the tube (you can apply a drop or two more if necessary), holds the feather to the tube (after some coaxing with a small dowel rod) and dries clear. I do not claim this is the only &/or best way to apply feathers, just the best way for me …
Good luck & let me know if I can help …
 
very good..that is what I wanted to hear...that does sound ideal.

BTW...I sprayed the feather with a fixative...clear laquer...pliable...ends up almost like a single plastic feather..and I can trim the flurries...and the strands stick...and I can bend the feather around the tube...sounds like it will work...any other tricks...?
 
I allow the blank to set over night then coat liberally with thin CA and let sit again overnight prior to casting.
 
socdad said:
I allow the blank to set over night then coat liberally with thin CA and let sit again overnight prior to casting.
Click to expand...

Might be worth doing a small casting on a piece of sheet metal. Prepare
a small feather or scrap of skin, glue to the sheet metal and cast it in a
bottle cap. You can put a paper cup over it to contain the fumes. But that
should help eliminate the variables of pressure, temp, trapped air etc. And
if there's still some bubbles, you can back up another step .. letting the CA
out-gas longer or eliminating that step for testing. (plus you don't waste
a lot of resin or a set of tubes..)
 
Charlie, I like your idea of allowing the CA to 'rest' for a longer time. I destroyed a BUNCH of tubes prior to using the CA …
 
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