Anyone fimiliare with the Tiny Ginay pen

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BeeAMaker

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Jan 30, 2017
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Elkhart IN, USA
I am working on a in tube cast for the Tiny Giant Pen from Turners Warehouse. I used Liquid Diamond, which has a very long cure time. I was in too much of a hurry and took my pen blank out of the Pressure pot to soon. (should have left it in for at least 24 hours, I took it out in 12)

It was perfect when I took it out, no bubbles at all. After it sat for about an hour I looked a the blank and saw this:
Bubble.jpg


Air trapped in the tube decided to make it;s way out now there was no pressure holding it in.

I think I can save the blank if I shave a bit off the end. Which leads me to my question, does anyone know about how much I can shave before it's too short and the pen sticks though to far? I don't want to assemble the pen only to find out the tube can't be cut down any.

I may just chalk this up as proof of concept and cast a new one :)
 
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After looking a bit closer to the kit, I don't think I will be abelto shave much, if any without the refill coming past the nib to far.

I think I might mix the LD a bit "hotter".
 
You have to be quite careful about shortening the tube(s) of any kit.

Rollerballs are more forgiving than ballpoints because the refill end pushes against a spring which can compensate for a shortened tube.

But with a ballpoint the refill end is hard up against the click mechanism or the twist mechanism.

Fountain pens are not so finicky as long as you have enough room in the main barrel for the length of the cartridge or ink "bladder".
But the fountain pen cap cannot be shortened by much, usually, because you don't want the inside surface of the cap end finial to contact the nib.

A lot depends on the particular kit as well as the type of kit (BP, RB, or FP)
 
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You have to be quite careful about shortening the tube(s) of any kit.

Rollerballs are more forgiving than ballpoints because the refill end pushes against a spring which can compensate for a shortened tube.

But with a ballpoint the refill end is hard up against the click mechanism or the twist mechanism.

Fountain pens are not so finicky as long as you have enough room in the main barrel for the length of the cartridge or ink "bladder".
But the fountain pen cap cannot be shortened by much, usually, because you don't want the inside surface of the cap end finial to contact the nib.

A lot depends on the particular kit as well as the type of kit (BP, RB, or FP)

Thanks for the info!

After examining the Tiny Giant, the ink cartridge rest against the inside of the back peice, so shortening the tube will result in the point sticking too far out past the nib and it won't look good. So, I think this blank is toast. I'll have to shorten it by almost 3/32" which will be way too much.

I will still turn it down however to see what it might have looked like. If I like it, I'll re-cast. I have extra tubes. ;)
 
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I decided to cut 1/8" off the plastic back of the ink refill, can't really tell unless you set it next to another Tiny Giant. :)

Not one to sell or give away, but good for showing off ;)

OJ1b.jpg


OJ1d.jpg
 
Yes, it is not a bad little pen, but I can't get used to a ballpoint that requires cap removal. . There is a rollerball version, I know, but I don't like a daily carry rollerball, and this little guy is meant to be a daily carry pen, I think.
 
After looking a bit closer to the kit, I don't think I will be abelto shave much, if any without the refill coming past the nib to far.

I think I might mix the LD a bit "hotter".



I would buy Alumilite Clear 7 min open time 1 hour demold time or Alumilite slow 12 open time and 2 to 4 hour demold Time much better in my opinion


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After looking a bit closer to the kit, I don't think I will be abelto shave much, if any without the refill coming past the nib to far.

I think I might mix the LD a bit "hotter".



I would buy Alumilite Clear 7 min open time 1 hour demold time or Alumilite slow 12 open time and 2 to 4 hour demold Time much better in my opinion


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

That is what I normally use, but I have been trying out the LD. It is a bit more clear and polishes a bit shinier than AL. Just it takes forever to harden.
 
After looking a bit closer to the kit, I don't think I will be abelto shave much, if any without the refill coming past the nib to far.



I think I might mix the LD a bit "hotter".







I would buy Alumilite Clear 7 min open time 1 hour demold time or Alumilite slow 12 open time and 2 to 4 hour demold Time much better in my opinion





Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app



That is what I normally use, but I have been trying out the LD. It is a bit more clear and polishes a bit shinier than AL. Just it takes forever to harden.



Yea I tried it out and didn't really care for it that much and I also tried some resin from the local craft store as well and it wasn't to bad either but it's also a little slow but not as slow as LD also Alumilite surprised me on how odorless it was very nice pen btw


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
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