antique(?) lathe

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nwcatman

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south texas
guy delivered a delta/rockwell 48" bed lathe with 8 new turning tools, 3 tailstocks, 3 tool rests, spare motor etc etc. i put dead centers in the head and tail stocks and they match up perfectly. course the tailstock is adjustable for that. best $100 i ever spent. he even took a check. ANYWAYS... is there a site i can go to that will tell me what i bought?? the motor and headstock have all the nameplates gone on one and wore off on the other. there is a number stamped into the bed (452 46 7196). someone, i think frank, sent me a link to a site like what i am looking for awhile ago but when i went there it was "under construction". the seller was in his late 70's, said it was the same type lathe he used in hi school. being the polite PC person that i am, i declined to point out THIS lathe runs on electricity.:D sometimes the chuck has to be rotated by hand to kickstart the motor. anyway...if anuone can give me infor. or point me in the right direction i would appreciate it. thanks
 
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Wow, how did I miss this, being the old tool nut that I am, I am supprised no one told you to get in touch with me.

First off, stop with the hand turning to start. That is a fine way to seriously get hurt. You most likly need a start capicitor on the motor, or a new motor if it's some odd ball.

If you have a photo I can ID the lathe fast. You mention you used one like it in school so I am thinking it's this one, and if it is, you stole it for $100.

www.owwm.com may be down, but stop in to see the guys at www.owwm.org and the discussion board is still up until the mothership comes back online. ;)

004.jpg
 
actually, the guy i bought it from said it looked like the one HE used in his shop class in hi school. will send ya a pic as soon as i can. thanks.
 
I live in SE Washington (Tri-Cities). It was for sale for $200 couple days ago. I cannot figure out why it hasn't sold. I been saving for a Jet 1220VS, but I do like old lathes. Wish it was VS.
 
Originally posted by PaulDoug

I live in SE Washington (Tri-Cities). It was for sale for $200 couple days ago. I cannot figure out why it hasn't sold. I been saving for a Jet 1220VS, but I do like old lathes. Wish it was VS.
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For about $350 you can replace the motor and add a VFD controller and have variable speed. I have done that with all three of my lathes, including an old cast iron Powercraft.
 
That is the Delta 1460 12" lathe. With a stand and a chuck, you have an easy $400 package there.

In 1940, that lathe, on the stand sold for $70.95 and weighed in at 235lbs.

As for the motor, any universal 3/4 - 1hp motor will work just fine for it. It you are buying new, I suggest you research into the VS conversions that are pretty common. Used motors can be found on Craigslist all the time for less than $50 if you watch.

If the bearings are good, run it the way it is. If you need new ones, I would have to know if you can replace them or if you should pay to have it done. Accurate Bearing is the place to buy new ones if you can handle the job.

PS... Don't fret the Jet lathe, that one is ten times what the Jet ever would be. ;)

Oh, but please! Repaint it from that stupid "school pea green" that it is.


Here are some links for you.
http://weberwoodworking.com/restorations/12sdlathe.htm
http://www.old-woodworking-tools.net/delta-1460-wood-lathe.html
http://www.familywoodworking.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1319 <= This one has the VS conversion
 
hey firefyter-thanks for all the infor. i would love to get a VS 1 HP motor for it. who sells em? i can find one on craigs list? ( i had to call my daughter to ask her what that was. and i swear i heard her mutter/sigh "old people" under her breath). when you talk about replacing the bearings are you refering to the lathe headstock, or the motor thats on it now? the headstock runs great w/no noise or vibrations. can the tailstock be rebuilt? it is pretty sloppy. there is no rust or ding marks on the bed. oh-and the lathe told me to tell you that just cause all your lathes are painted PINK with flowers on em doesn't mean HIS green paint is ugly.[xx(]
 
LOL.. John, I like your sense of humor, but I hate to break it to you... Old arn is always female and should be refered to as such. You may say that she is a beautiful old girl and requires the proper care to keep her happy, you see? Pink with flowers though?? Nawh, that is just wrong! [xx(]

The bearings would be in the headstock and the motor, but not in the tailstock. I would have to see the tailstock, it should be fairly tight, but will be a little loose befoe you tighten it down. It may need to be sleeved and rebored to fit the tailstock if it's very worn. Not a problem you see often.

Do some research on the VS conversion, over at www.owwm.org is a great place to learn more about the details. I have not done one myself, but hope to someday. They will give you some great advise on this. This is normally done with a three phase motor and a phase converter (nice digital ones can be had on e-bay)

I may do this soon to my 950 Delta as I have a drill press that will come home with a three phase motor on it. I plan to swap out that motor for my lathe motor. This giant drill alredy has a HUGE VS range to it so to set it up like this is redundant.

PS.. Lookie here: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=273 ;)
 
John,

Here are some links to check out:

Dealers Electric use to have a motor and controller package but I don't see that any more. Here is an affordable 1HP converter. All you need is a three phase motor.
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?PID=428&cID=129&scID=131

Here is your new motor... can't go wrong with Baldor!
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-HP-Baldor-Sup...ryZ26226QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

You can search for 3 phase motors and VFD controllers on EBay. Make sure your VFD is single phase input! If you do not have 220 in your shop, make sure the VFD is rated for 110-115 single phase input or have a 220 circuit added to your shop if you want a 220 input VFD. Some VFD's have dual voltage inputs and are fine to use. I have one on my 8' diameter bowl lathe. Just make sure you do not get a 3 phase only input VFD... you will be stuck with it and not be able to use it unless you have 3 phase service coming into your shop.

Your motor should be a 3 phase 1750 RPM if you want to use your step pulleys and VFD together. Otherwise a 3600 RPM on a 1-1 pulley setup will work fine. I prefer the 1750 and set the belt on the high speed pulley combo and leave it there.

If your motor shaft is too large a diameter for your current pulley, larger bore pulleys can be gotten off EBay at a very reasonable price.

Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Dave

It isn't that hard to set up. The controller has a detailed manual to guide you through the programming options. Once you have a true variable speed lathe, you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.

Better hurry, Firefyter-emt is watching this motor!!!
 
As I read through this, I get the impression that converting my Jet 1220 to VS would not be all that hard to do. If I understand correctly I could just swap out my current 3/4 HP motor for a 3 phase and a controller and then using the 5 step pulley system already in place, have 5 speed ranges.

How slow will typical VFD drive a 1750 RPM 3 phase motor?

Am I correct in assuming that all the step pulley based lathes that run off of 115 VAC have 1750 RPM fixed speed motors?
 
Originally posted by holmqer

As I read through this, I get the impression that converting my Jet 1220 to VS would not be all that hard to do. If I understand correctly I could just swap out my current 3/4 HP motor for a 3 phase and a controller and then using the 5 step pulley system already in place, have 5 speed ranges.

Yes. Each pulley combination will have a minimum-maximum RPM range; the main difference between pulley combinations being the maximum RPM. (Each pulley combination will overlap RPM's in the lower range as they progress to their maximum RPM.) The issue of torque at different RPM's comes into play, but unless you are turning large diameter materials and taking very heavy cuts, it is a non-issue.

How slow will typical VFD drive a 1750 RPM 3 phase motor?

It can vary between controllers, but typically, you can go from "0" to maximum, with a moving low RPM that is in the single digits. This comes in very handy for some finishing processes.

Am I correct in assuming that all the step pulley based lathes that run off of 115 VAC have 1750 RPM fixed speed motors?
I do not want to speak for "all" lathes but it is safe to assume that most, if not all, operate in that range. Using a step pulley to zero in on the range of speeds you use most often, makes a 1,750 RPM motor a good choice.

Case in point:
If you have a 1,750 RPM motor and your belt is on the 6" diameter pulley, which in turn is driving a 2" diameter pulley on the lathe headstock, you RPM range will be 0-5,250 RPM. So pick a step combination that has the RPM range that suite 90% of your needs and you will rarely, if ever, need to move your belt.

In my case, I bought some buttons, switches and control box off EBay and created a separate control box that allowed me to turn a switch and go from forward to reverse (great for sanding in both directions) while the lathe is spinning (this is so cooool, that I stood there and played with it for 5 minutes! Make sure your motor is tagged as reversible.) I also added a stop and start button, E-Stop and a potentiometer for dialing in the RPM's. Now I can have the VFD located away from the lathe and all the dust and any flying chunks of bowls, etc...:D

The VFD will read 0-60 HZ (the rated HZ on your motor tag) on the digital readout, which essentially means that at 60HZ, your lathe is running at 100% of the RPM's associated with your motor/lathe pulley combination. At 30 HZ you are running at 50% of the available RPM's.

You will quickly get very comfortable with dialing in the RPM's without needing a readout. I have converted all three of my lathes over... from EBay auctions.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info.

Looking at that Baldor it is described as 575V which seems a bit high!

There seems to be some standard frame designations. Assuming that my lathe motor has a standard frame, and I can figure out what it is, if I buy the the same frame number should it bolt right in place of my existing motor?
 
Holmger,

Yeah, 575V is something you should avoid. I missed that detail. Good catch. See, there is a TON that goes into a decision! I will check the "Bay" for some more leads and post them.

As for the frame or mounting, anything that has a base plate can be made to fit... and in some instances, for lathes that are face mounted, frames can be removed.

If you are looking at the 1HP controller, I will look for 3/4 - 1 HP motors.

D
 
Holmger,

Here is a 220 Single Phase input VFD controller for $159. This way, you can use any motor 2HP and below.

It will work for the 208-230 3 phase motors that are more prevalent. All you need is a 220 outlet in your shop. I had an electrician friend pop a breaker into my service panel and run a line to a couple of 220 outlets for two of my lathes.

http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?PID=480

Here is a 1.5 HP motor that will work with the above controller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Electric-Motor-...ryZ26226QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This one would move to the top of my list. It has everything you want in a variable speed motor; Inverter Rating, 1.15 Service Factor, Reversible, etc.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Motor-1-5-HP-3-...ryZ26226QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

1 HP Baldor.
C-Face mount, so if you need a base plate, they are available as a replacement many places for cheap.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BALDOR-1-HP-MOT...ryZ26226QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Anyway, you can find good deals and convert your lathe over for 25 cents on the dollar. Look for a friendly electrician and it gets real easy... unless you can do that yourself.
 
It's kind of funny, but part of my job at work is to write the software in motor controllers for aircraft and naval applications. But because we are in a specialized industry, everything is made in house, we wind our own motors, design our own controllers etc. As a result we are all utterly clueless on the standard terminology and equipment in the commercial off the shelf motor business.

As some of our ship born systems run 570 Volt 500 Amp, I can spot odd voltages! I can design a reduntant system with 2 motors driving the same shaft to operate in a 400F ambient environment but I don't know how to pick out a motor and controller to upgrade my lathe!
 
On my Jet 1220 the motor fits under the ways. Most of the motors I see are larger OD and shorter than the one Jet used and seem to be too wide to fit where the existing motor resides.

I know for the motors we build at work we tend to make them long and skinny since they have the fit in the narrow space between an aircraft engine and the inside of the nacelle. Unfortunately all of our motors are all 4 or 5 phase and either 270V/540V so I can't finagle an obsolete motor.
 
Originally posted by holmqer

On my Jet 1220 the motor fits under the ways. Most of the motors I see are larger OD and shorter than the one Jet used and seem to be too wide to fit where the existing motor resides.

I know for the motors we build at work we tend to make them long and skinny since they have the fit in the narrow space between an aircraft engine and the inside of the nacelle. Unfortunately all of our motors are all 4 or 5 phase and either 270V/540V so I can't finagle an obsolete motor.
Click to expand...

I have Fisch mini and swapped out the motor for a DC motor with a variable speed controller. I modified the belt tensioning bracket and put some 2x4 spacers under the feet to allow for the larger diameter motor. Works like a charm. Anything is possible.
 
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