Another round of “Guess that wood!”

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So, I found this stuff in the bargain bin of scrap wood at woodcraft and I've been trying to identify it. Also, I added photos of the pen I turned with it (pen #8!). It's finished with CA and the color really intensified & darkened with finishing! I wasn't expecting it to get so dark (& really red!) Im assuming these are the same type of wood as each other since they both has the same grain structure and color and shimmer, but one just has more dark lines than the other.

My clues are:
- Hardness/density/weight is similar to Purple Heart. It's Not super hard to work with, but not simple either.
- It burned rather quickly on the belt sander (like a curly maple will)
- There was very little scent when cutting (unlike the zebra wood I cut yesterday which is nasty! 🤢)
- While turning it had very orange dust, like a rusty nail, not something reddish/brown like I expected.

I'm thinking maybe bloodwood or chakte viga? It has a bit of a shimmer to it even uncut or Unsanded; it shimmers a bit just by moving it around and while not "curly" it has a shimmer that most woods don't. It's really nice and id like to hunt more down eventually but don't know what it's called. It was only 1/2 thick, so I was able to make a slimline with it, but I'd like to find some thicker stuff in future.

what do you guys think? (& I used some walnut to prop the pen on if that gives you some hint for color contrast)

Also, my Pen #8 is a "fancy slimline" in gunmetal (I would have used antique gunmetal but I'm waiting for more to arrive from Turners Warehouse). I have the HARDEST time trying to pair woods with metal finishes and am never sure if I "got it right" 😆
 

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Looks like figured paudak to me.
I have some paudak boards here and I was comparing it earlier and it's not quite right. The color isn't as intense or as orange (& the paudak is way more powder fine dusty than this stuff), it doesn't smell the same as the Paudak & the grain isn't quite the same. The density/weight isn't quite the same; It's also more pink/red than orange in person … 🤔
I've been browsing the visual wood library on the woodcraft site and it's still not helping 🤦🏻‍♀️
I agree with Ken but the figuring is more unusual
The figuring is pretty fine/tight structure, like micro thin lines instead of thicker grain. It's totally confusing me. Maybe a Koa of some kind??

I'm pretty stumped this time…. But I like the wood! It's really pretty in person!
 
I have some paudak boards here and I was comparing it earlier and it's not quite right. The color isn't as intense or as orange (& the paudak is way more powder fine dusty than this stuff), it doesn't smell the same as the Paudak & the grain isn't quite the same. The density/weight isn't quite the same; It's also more pink/red than orange in person … 🤔
I've been browsing the visual wood library on the woodcraft site and it's still not helping 🤦🏻‍♀️

The figuring is pretty fine/tight structure, like micro thin lines instead of thicker grain. It's totally confusing me. Maybe a Koa of some kind??

I'm pretty stumped this time…. But I like the wood! It's really pretty in person!
I'm sticking with paudak, most woods, not all, but most have wildly differing coloring. I would guess hinging on many variables. Looking forward to what others have to say.
 
Kinda reminds me of bubinga.


"Color: The sapwood is a creamy off-white to light tan color. The heartwood ranges from a pinkish red to a rich reddish-brown color. Bubinga is very frequently seen with a variety of figure when the brown grain is interlocking and creates wavy, motion like figuring. Figures include pommele, quilted, molted, and waterfall; it can be truly impressive."

I have had some and still do somewhere, but haven's seen it in a while.
 
I am aligned with Joebobber, I thin it is Pau Ferro, also known as Morado and sometimes as Bolivian Rosewood. Pau Ferro has the reddish-brown color with darker brown streaks. It also usually has a straight grain and pores like in the picture and it does usually get darker (more reddish) when it is finished. - Dave
 
Kinda reminds me of bubinga.


"Color: The sapwood is a creamy off-white to light tan color. The heartwood ranges from a pinkish red to a rich reddish-brown color. Bubinga is very frequently seen with a variety of figure when the brown grain is interlocking and creates wavy, motion like figuring. Figures include pommele, quilted, molted, and waterfall; it can be truly impressive."

I have had some and still do somewhere, but haven's seen it in a while.
I used to work with bubbinga back in my younger days and it reminded me of it, but I will never forget the way it smelled (especially when it was a tad burnt 🥴) and this wasn't quite it.
I am aligned with Joebobber, I thin it is Pau Ferro, also known as Morado and sometimes as Bolivian Rosewood. Pau Ferro has the reddish-brown color with darker brown streaks. It also usually has a straight grain and pores like in the picture and it does usually get darker (more reddish) when it is finished. - Dave
I'm thinking I will just go with this… I had felt rosewood was pretty close (based on density and weight), but most photos I saw wasn't quite as reddish as mine was (though who knows how old these scraps were). I also didn't wear a dust mask while sanding and I can now feel it in my chest (which happens with rosewoods with me)… so maybe I'll just label it as Pau Ferro and be able to sleep at night 😆☺️
Thanks guys!! You always help me narrow the guessing game!
 
Give them a chance Ian,
They are still in bed!!!
No they're not . They run zoom meetings such as the record power session on twisted stem goblets at this time of night ( next one is 14 july 00.30 am over here , 11.30 am-over there !) They deprive me of my , much needed , beauty sleep!!

Least they could do is help a lady in distress !😉
 
Pau rosa looks similar. Looks a little red to be canarywood, although the grain pattern is similar. I have only worked with a small amount of morado, but that was definitely more chocolate/purple in color rather than red. The grain actually looks quite coarse in these photos.
 
My first thought before reading anything in the thread was Bubinga, not just because of the color, but the random patterns formed by the darker colors in the grain. The patterns looks similar to spalting.
 
It is in the rosewood family for sure. and I agree with Joebobber. Have a board of it if you need for me to take photo. Just went to look downstairs but must have used that board. The problem with guessing woods is not every board looks the same even if it is in the same family. That could be just an odd board. I had a piece of bloodwood that looked similar too. I am still moving lumber around in basement so will look through the boards to see if I can find it and will shoot a photo. I know I had it. But may have used it.
 
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[...]
My clues are:
- Hardness/density/weight is similar to Purple Heart. It's Not super hard to work with, but not simple either.
- It burned rather quickly on the belt sander (like a curly maple will)
- There was very little scent when cutting (unlike the zebra wood I cut yesterday which is nasty! 🤢)
- While turning it had very orange dust, like a rusty nail, not something reddish/brown like I expected.

I'm thinking maybe bloodwood or chakte viga?
[...]
Colors are notoriously deceptive on computer screens. Based on the description of the wood properties, my first thought was bloodwood, too. I have turned a few bloodwood pens, and I think that bloodwood is a possibility here. See photos, below.

P.S. (Edit): Bloodwood is hard and dense. Resawing a 9 inch wide bloodwood board to make the thinner box lid board was a challenge for my bandsaw with a 1.75 horsepower motor and a 3/4 inch 3 TPI blade.

Photos:
  • Unfinished Padauk, Bloodwood, and Purpleheart Board Cutoffs (photo also shows a few pen blanks I made from them).
  • Maple Box with Bloodwood Lid (Finish: Tried and True Varnish Oil - a linseed oil finish with varnish resin).


Padauk Bloodwood Purpleheart.JPG


Maple Bloodwood Box.JPG
 
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Another P.S.:

My local Rockler store allows you to pay the per-board-foot price of board cutoffs. The requirements are:
  • You must take a cutoff from the end. No fair asking for a cutoff out of the middle of the board. :)
  • The minimum cutoff is 6 inches.
  • The remaining board must be 4 foot long or longer after you take the cutoff.
    • The store associates re-measure the board-feet of the remaining board and print a new price tag/label before putting it back in the rack for sale.
I assume that this policy applies to all Rockler stores, but don't know how to verify that. Woodcraft and the other hardwood lumber stores have different policies about cutoffs. They are not as liberal as Rockler, and some won't do it at all.

This is a great way to get inexpensive exotic wood pen blanks at a much lower cost than buying individual pen blanks from the store bins. You cut the pen blanks yourself when you get the cutoff board home. There is some waste due to blade kerf sawdust losses, so I use the bandsaw to cut the pen blanks, not the table saw.

Some woodworking friends have suggested that the pre-made pen blanks in the store are selected and culled for better grain and figure. I don't agree. I believe that the exotic wood pen blanks that they sell in the stores are made from ordinary boards. In my opinion, the only real value-added to the store pen blanks is that they are pre-cut in convenient pen blank size.
Repeating: That's my opinion, not a known fact that I have confirmed.
 
The Forest Products Laboratory provides a free service to you 'muricns of up to 3 samples a year. Send them a piece and they will identify it or get very close. https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/research/centers/woodanatomy/wood_idfactsheet.php

There is an app or two that identify wood by taking a picture of the end grain. You could get it and see how well it works. One is called Xylorix. I have never used it.

I'll add that I have some Pau Ferro that I bought 40 years ago and it does not look like your sample.
 
I'm not going to try to guess the species, but that is a very beautiful pen. From the pictures, I think your hardware selection looks nice. It's a shame that it is only 1/2 inch thick as that obviously limits your kit selection as that wood deserves a high-end pen kit...
 
It's a shame that it is only 1/2 inch thick as that obviously limits your kit selection as that wood deserves a high-end pen kit...
Could always do a pinstripe laminate - double it up with a layer of veneer in between - although it really shows if you're as bad as I am about drilling your holes straight. Of course, then you also have to worry about all the beautiful wood that gets wasted as shavings if the kit's too skinny. Maybe something nice and fat, like a panache?
 
UPDATE: I went to woodcraft again today and spoke with a head guy there; he said it was ….. BUBINGA!! And confirmed it with another piece that was in the bin that was almost the exact same.
So mystery solved!! I also went to the "exotic" wood wall and looked at all the pieces of rosewoods and the grain was just not quite right (& it was heavier than I thought it would be be)… so all those that guessed bubinga can revel in victory ☺️😆
 
UPDATE: I went to woodcraft again today and spoke with a head guy there; he said it was ….. BUBINGA!! And confirmed it with another piece that was in the bin that was almost the exact same.
So mystery solved!! I also went to the "exotic" wood wall and looked at all the pieces of rosewoods and the grain was just not quite right (& it was heavier than I thought it would be be)… so all those that guessed bubinga can revel in victory ☺️😆
Just for reference, from wood data base. That piece is not a typical piece of Bubinga. You will get that in all woods. So guessing is always not easy.



Comments: An immensely popular imported African hardwood, Bubinga may be loved as much for its quirky name as it is for its strength and beauty. Also sometimes called Kevazingo, usually in reference to its decorative rotary-cut veneer.





Bubinga has a close resemblance to rosewood, and is often use in place of more expensive woods. Yet Bubinga also features a host of stunning grain figures, such as flamed, pommele, and waterfall, which make this wood truly unique. Bubinga also has an exceptional strength-to-weight ratio.​
 
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