I am planning on trying a little segmented turning. Nothing huge, maybe some lidded boxes. Just finished building a wedgie sled and I laser cut a few setup wedges at work for 8,10 and 12 sided turnings. Thinking I might cut at least one more for 16 sides. Don't know if I got lucky or not, but the first two practice cuts came out pretty good, in fact, I don't think they could fit together any better. Sled design is just made after looking at some examples online. I'm sure there are many pitfalls waiting for me, but so far so good.
Another Rabbit Hole
- Thread starter KenB259
- Start date
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Dieseldoc
Member
Ken: so looks like you are heading down the same rabbit hole that I have been for some time. Segmenting vessek
Lbs is a endless path. Enjoy.
Lbs is a endless path. Enjoy.
byounghusband
Member
Looks like a great start. You have a good idea on that sled and set up wedges.
howsitwork
Member
looking good so far.
Wait until you try leaving gaps between the wedges to form sectional segmented vessels . It's just a few feet further down the rabbit hole and a few jigs further into the unknown …….
damn good fun though
Wait until you try leaving gaps between the wedges to form sectional segmented vessels . It's just a few feet further down the rabbit hole and a few jigs further into the unknown …….
damn good fun though
SteveJ
Member
The sled looks good, as do the two trial rings. I finished building mine this summer but haven't put together a bowl yet. I hope to start some segmented bowls in the new year.
Dale Parrott
Member
You are correct about the rabbit hole, I've been there but managed to crawl out before going too far. Back when the weggie sleds first came out I had the good fortune to meet Jerry Bennett (Huntsville, TX) and visit his shop. He is a super nice guy. I'd like to encourage you to watch some of his segmenting videos on YouTube to learn more than "just the basics".
Great video, thanks for posting.
Darn good! The tops of those are perfect. The seams on the top look to be gap free and angle perfect.
This is something I'm struggling with myself right now. I just got my first table saw, and the bottom of my cuts are usually pretty terrible. Not sure if its just a bad quality blade, or if I'm doing something wrong, but the top of my cuts usually look fine while the bottom is frayed, if not strait up shredded. This has kept me from trying anything with expensive wood just yet, and thus kept me out of segmenting for the large part.
jttheclockman
Member
could be runout on the arbor
Mike8850
Member
Do you use a zero clearance insert?
Mike
Yes, you can see it in the first picture. I'm going to cut a long wedge to two way tape onto the saw so the little wedges will fall away from the blade.
Lew
Member
For the past week, I've been trying to build the wedgie sled and the wood stop when I can get out to the shop. Looking forward to actually being able to make something with them. Good looking designs on the sled and stop, and the practice cuts are perfect.
Dieseldoc
Member
Check to see your saw blade is 90 degrees to table.
jttheclockman
Member
Also check to see if your saw blade is not warped. or there is no build up on the arbor screw that causes the blade to not sit flat.
Its definitely 90 degrees. Its a brand new saw, so I doubt there is any build up just yet. I wonder about the quality of the blade though.
It is NOT a zero clearance plate, and that may be the problem. I'm building a cross-cut sled, so that should resolve that issue.
Dieseldoc
Member
All saw need to be checked and tuned up adjusted as needed. l its a suggestion.
howsitwork
Member
One guy I know of uses his extractor hose with a narrow nozzle set close to the blade to suck away sawdust AND the cut wedges. It's a neat trick
jttheclockman
Member
If you are getting tearout or splintering on the bottom side of your cuts, then a few things you need to do. Yes a zero clearance insert can help some. But using the right blade will make a world of difference as well as a good quality blade. You want a 60 ATB blade and if using real prone wood that splinters like bamboo then step to an 80 tooth. Feed rate is important as in turning on a lathe so is the table saw or any saw or router. Any cutting tool needs proper feed rate to let the tool do the work. And sharpness. Where have you heard that before. keep blades sharp and clean of resin buildup. Just because a saw is new it can have manufacturing flaws and a good tune up is a must with all new saws as well as in between tune-ups. Remember all measurements come off the blade and not sleds or miter gauges or fences.
Looking at the blade, it might be very slightly warped. Its the blade that came with the machine, and I've suspected it since I got it. I will look into replacing the blade. I don't want to take up more of Ken's thread though, so I'll start another thread for this.
I like Freud Diablo blades. They work very well and don't break the bank.