Another Interesting Glue Article

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That makes sense based on my experience. I can attest that I have never had a blank come loose or break off a tube using gorilla glue without it being my own fault. Granted, I am still a relative newbie, but it has always held well enough to turn for me. However, I have had a couple tubes slide out during disassembly where the tube was not a very tight fit to begin with.
 
Has anyone here used it for pen's outside of glueing in the tube? Such as glueing inlays, also how well would it hold on to other materials?
 
Ken, you seem stuck on glue! I've been using Gorrilla glue for my tubes for years. So far, not a single failure. I sand my tubes with 60 grit and drop them in water. I use a Q-tip to coat the inside of the blank with glue and I twist the tube while inserting to get max coverage.
 
I started using Gorilla glue after learning that a major Pool Cue Manf used it to assemble theis 6 piece shafts. I also had the misconception that it would fill gaps, which it does but not strongly!
 
444 said:
I started using Gorilla glue after learning that a major Pool Cue Manf used it to assemble theis 6 piece shafts. I also had the misconception that it would fill gaps, which it does but not strongly!
Click to expand...
Maybe so but most pool cue makers use epoxy and I would trust epoxy more than gorilla glue for any segmenting.
https://www.pooldawg.com/article/pooldawg-library/how-pool-cues-are-made



Everyone will have their choice of glues to use. The thing about these videos that show shear strength are misleading to the pen maker in my opinion, because the outside pressure that comes to a segmented blank comes from a force that is applied with a tool or drill bit. The surface of the blank is much smaller than the blocks of wood that are being used for ripping apart to test for shear strength. We are not ripping a blank apart. As it has been mentioned here before, heat will play a part because of the rubbing of metal on the material being turned or drilled. Use of sharp tools is always important. Proper technique and proper glueup will also play a part in a successful glue up. Wood to wood is the easiest joints to secure but add materials with no open grain to lock onto then the glue will be the only source of adhesion. That is the tests you would like to see.
 
I have had only bad luck with gorilla glue. I hate the way it foams up and makes a mess. It does not work as a gap filler. And I have found very weak joints. The hardened stuff seems no stronger than EPS (styrofoam). I stick with epoxy and CA (pun intended)!
 
Original Gorilla Glue is polyurethane glue. I like original Gorilla Glue for two uses, and two uses only:
  • Gluing pen tubes into pen blanks. Just the pen tubes. No other pen-related use, okay? I have never had a pen tube glue failure with it.
  • Select household repairs, but only a few. It can be used with dissimilar materials and is waterproof.
That's it. For other adhesive needs, I use wood glue (wood/wood only), CA glue, Clear Gorilla Glue (a silane-based glue), epoxy. Epoxy does things that no other glue can do and it can replace the other glues for many uses. I generally avoid epoxy if another option is available because it is expensive, takes time to prepare, and is messy. I also use spray adhesive and contact cement for specialized uses.
 
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