An idea for vintage acetate

[EricRN]

I just had an idea hit me. I've got a ton of vintage acetate that I love, but it's super-thin 10-12mm. The thought just hit me--Has anyone ever tried polishing these up and then casting them in some alumilite to give them more girth and make them easier to use? Best case scenario, they stabilize the outside of the blank while you drill the hole for the tube and then you turn all the alumilite off so that the acetate shines through. Worst case scenario, you have a great-looking material encased in a layer of alumilite. You lose the warm feel of the acetate, but you still get the look (and it's better than not using it at all).

 

[magpens]

@EricRN
Good idea ! ! . . but I think you meant to write 10- 12mm instead of 10- 12cm. . If you see this in time, you might like to edit.

Would like to see this idea of casting the vintage acetate in clear Alumilite implemented .

Apart from clear Alumilite, some additional streaks of appropriate color could be added . . . a challenge for the artists among us !

 

[EricRN]

@EricRN
Good idea ! ! . . but I think you meant to write 10- 12mm instead of 10- 12cm. . If you see this in time, you might like to edit.

Would like to see this idea of casting the vintage acetate in clear Alumilite implemented .

Apart from clear Alumilite, some additional streaks of appropriate color could be added . . . a challenge for the artists among us !

If I was a caster, I'd try it myself. I assume there would be some logistical challenges getting the blank centered in the mold (or centered on the acetate tub when mounted in the lathe, if not centered when cast).

You are correct that I meant 10-12mm. 10-12cm would be some blank! I've edited it in the original post.

 

[JohnU]

If I was a caster, I'd try it myself. I assume there would be some logistical challenges getting the blank centered in the mold (or centered on the acetate tub when mounted in the lathe, if not centered when cast).

You are correct that I meant 10-12mm. 10-12cm would be some blank! I've edited it in the original post.

No issues with centering as long as the clear resin sticks out past the bushings. It will be centered when you turn it. I did one a few years ago. The problem is getting the clear resin to stick and hold to the acetate rod under the stress of turning. I had slippage, which appears like a shiny air pocket. With all the new epoxy resins on the markets maybe one of those will work. I don't like or use epoxy so maybe someone else will give it a try.

 

[EricRN]

No issues with centering as long as the clear resin sticks out past the bushings. It will be centered when you turn it. I did one a few years ago. The problem is getting the clear resin to stick and hold to the acetate rod under the stress of turning. I had slippage, which appears like a shiny air pocket. With all the new epoxy resins on the markets maybe one of those will work. I don't like or use epoxy so maybe someone else will give it a try.

That's a good point. You'd have to get the acetate pretty polished up to look good under the resin. But that would make it pretty slick, too.

 

[PatrickR]

I have a piece on my bench now that I have cast. Some of what I have is showing its age. I turned it down far enough to get rid of the off color layer, which reduced its thickness by about half. Then I cast it in LD. I have turned it round but that is as far as I have gotten. the epoxy should adhere but don't polish it. You want to leave some tooth. As long as it is sanded evenly to about 320 no marks will be visible in the cast. my intention is to leave a layer of epoxy.

 

[jttheclockman]

I have a project on the bench that I will be doing this to. But that is a ways off when I get back in the shop. I will use epoxy resin because that stuff sticks to anything.