alumilite

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John,

What little casting I do is with PR, so I cannot help you with Alumilite.

There are numerous posts and articles in this Casting and Stabilization Forum that would make helpful reading for you.
 
You need a pressure pot, you need to make some molds and you need either or both powder dye's like Pearlex and oil based dye's like oil base paint. No water based products nor anything else like wet wood should come into contact with Alumilite or you will have a disaster. Oh..you need a scale too. You need to mix the a and b by weight, ie 3 ounce a to 3 ounce b by weight not volume. get a piece of paper and write down the sizes of the molds you make and as you figure out, often by trial and error, how much it takes to fill whatever the mold is, write it down. In the summer a mold can be un pressurized in an hour with no worries, and in the winter it takes a bit longer if your product is cooler when you start. Thin pours, you should heat up the mold or what is in the mold before you pour, you don't have too, but heating up a piece of wood for instance, will make the product set and cure faster. You can use the finished product several hours after it is made..I prefer to let it cure over night, just like I prefer to leave everything under pressure for a couple hours..it never hurts to be extra safe. If you were to take something out of a mold too early and the blank is still a bit soft, then the compressed air bubbles in the blank will expand and try and escape the blank, leaving the blank with voids. DAMHIKT. There's a few guys here with silicone molds, those are the easiest. Otherwise make them out of cutting boards or wood..but with wood you have to cut the wood off, with silicone or cutting boards, the mold is re-usable. Get cups in bulk for cheap at Gordon's Food Services <GFS>
 
As has been mentioned, read the tutorials in the library.

You may also check out the recipes in my Resin Color Library .
You can search for alumilite.
Stay away from any alumilite recipes that used liquid dyes- they worked fine in the test samples, but in the real thing produced swiss cheese.
 
Pioneerpens said:
Jason, great info there, Thanks for sharing!!
Click to expand...

Good to hear when people find it useful.

It's always open for new contributions- I have yet to do anything with:
powdercoat
testors paints
???

and probably won't any time soon. If I do an extension on the library it will be to improve the opacity data. I.E. address the questions of:
"How do I rate the opacity of this?" and
"How opaque does my blank need to be so I don't have to paint my tubes?"

Although I do have about 20 more samples/recipes to get added. Maybe after I finally get the alumilite dyes working (see the "alumilite and red tints" thread)- by then I'll probably have 50 to add.
 
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Has anyone tried Mixol to color Alumilite. It is a liquid but it is supposed to work with anything. It works great with PR, Oil Paint and Latex paint. it also works with epoxy.
 
workinforwood said:
You need a pressure pot, you need to make some molds and you need either or both powder dye's like Pearlex and oil based dye's like oil base paint. No water based products nor anything else like wet wood should come into contact with Alumilite or you will have a disaster. Oh..you need a scale too. You need to mix the a and b by weight, ie 3 ounce a to 3 ounce b by weight not volume. get a piece of paper and write down the sizes of the molds you make and as you figure out, often by trial and error, how much it takes to fill whatever the mold is, write it down. In the summer a mold can be un pressurized in an hour with no worries, and in the winter it takes a bit longer if your product is cooler when you start. Thin pours, you should heat up the mold or what is in the mold before you pour, you don't have too, but heating up a piece of wood for instance, will make the product set and cure faster. You can use the finished product several hours after it is made..I prefer to let it cure over night, just like I prefer to leave everything under pressure for a couple hours..it never hurts to be extra safe. If you were to take something out of a mold too early and the blank is still a bit soft, then the compressed air bubbles in the blank will expand and try and escape the blank, leaving the blank with voids. DAMHIKT. There's a few guys here with silicone molds, those are the easiest. Otherwise make them out of cutting boards or wood..but with wood you have to cut the wood off, with silicone or cutting boards, the mold is re-usable. Get cups in bulk for cheap at Gordon's Food Services <GFS>
Click to expand...
I don't have a Gordon's Food Service by me, can I use other cups???? :biggrin:
 
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