alumilite

[theartist07]

i'm looking to start working with alumilite and was wondering where the best place to buy it. I checked on MisterArt but all i see is a 28oz. or i have missed it somewhere. Does anyone know where i might buy a lager amount. And also, can i cast it in the same molds as the PR ? I would also like to know if it is as easy to work with as the PR. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[rej19]

You can buy it direct from www.alumilite.com Can't comment a whole lot since I have not turned a lot of either. From what I have turned alumilite seems to be a little more forgiving. I just received my first order of alumilite crystal clear myself. I have tried a couple of casts and have a ways to go to perfect it for sure. I thought I had mine dyed dark enough but was it was not. I probably should have went with the white first.

 

[Druid]

You can buy it directly from Alumilite at: http://www.alumilite.com/Category.cfm?Category=Casting%20Resins

Make sure you have your ducks in line when using, it starts setting when mixed after 3 mins. One other advise, it doesnt like anything water-based.

 

[workinforwood]

The new crystal clear gives you a couple extra minutes of working time which is a real bonus. It's much easier completing a pour in 5-6 minutes compared to 3-4 minutes. Buy a 5 gallon pail. It is much cheaper than a gallon. Technically it's 10 gallons of course. That'll bring the cost down to $51/gallon compared to $80/gallon if you break it right down to actual gallon costs. Yes..buy direct.
yes you can use same molds.
I think personally it is easier to use than PR. You do need a scale, you simply measure the weight and mix equal weight of A and B. Must be done with a scale. Must be colored with powders or oil base paint. No water, no wet wood can be used, no acrylic paints. Must use pressure pot with pressure. Can remove from pot in one hour, can make a pen about 3-4 hours after pour if you want to. No need to think about how much catalyst to use, the temperature in the shop isn't so important, I've poured many times at 50 and it sets all the same, no need to bake it in an oven.

 

[ldb2000]

If your casting things in clear resin then Alumilite is tops but unless you are prepared to buy it in the 5 gallon pails it's twice the price of PR . I use PR for all of my color casts .
I haven't tried the new crystal clear formula but the regular clear alumilite is harder to sand and finish and get a shine equivalent to PR , with buffing it shines nice but not as well as PR. IMHO

 

[MesquiteMan]

Can remove from pot in one hour, can make a pen about 3-4 hours after pour if you want to.

Remove from the pot in 1 hour? I must be doing something wrong. I remove mine in 15 minutes and have never had a problem after going through 18 gallons of the stuff!

 

[workinforwood]

There ya go...thanks curtis. I didn't know..guess I'm extra cautious.

 

[Jgrden]

The new crystal clear gives you a couple extra minutes of working time which is a real bonus. It's much easier completing a pour in 5-6 minutes compared to 3-4 minutes. Buy a 5 gallon pail. It is much cheaper than a gallon. Technically it's 10 gallons of course. That'll bring the cost down to $51/gallon compared to $80/gallon if you break it right down to actual gallon costs. Yes..buy direct.
yes you can use same molds.
I think personally it is easier to use than PR. You do need a scale, you simply measure the weight and mix equal weight of A and B. Must be done with a scale. Must be colored with powders or oil base paint. No water, no wet wood can be used, no acrylic paints. Must use pressure pot with pressure. Can remove from pot in one hour, can make a pen about 3-4 hours after pour if you want to. No need to think about how much catalyst to use, the temperature in the shop isn't so important, I've poured many times at 50 and it sets all the same, no need to bake it in an oven.

Here is your dumb question #1. Do you use a catalist? The resin I buy from Hobby Lobby requires a hardener. Don't laugh at me, I gotta start somewhere?

 

[JohnU]

Jgrden Alumilite does not require a catalyst. It is a 2 part mix, equal parts of each A and B, but PR or Silmar 41 is a poly resin that requires a catalyst (drops per ounce). Your Hobby Lobby Crafters Resin is a poly resin. Both work great when you get them figured out. Pros and Cons to both reguarding smell, price, shine, etc... Opinions vary.

 

[ldb2000]

Actually Alumilite does require a catalyst . One of the 2 parts act as the catalyst , I do believe it's part A .

 

[Jgrden]

Jgrden Alumilite does not require a catalyst. It is a 2 part mix, equal parts of each A and B, but PR or Silmar 41 is a poly resin that requires a catalyst (drops per ounce). Your Hobby Lobby Crafters Resin is a poly resin. Both work great when you get them figured out. Pros and Cons to both reguarding smell, price, shine, etc... Opinions vary.

Shoot a mile. I can't wait to try it. A painter's pot was purchased and should be here by the end of the week. No more friggin' air. When you say "no water" how would this work with water applied decals that have been dried for twenty-four hours.?

 

[MesquiteMan]

Part A is the the polyol and part B is the isocyanate. I believe the iso acts as the "catalyst". I am not a chemist, only a dumb home builder so I may very well be wrong!

 

[ldb2000]

Curtis , you know what to call the two parts by their right names so that makes you Albert Einstein compared to my Forest Gump . I only know you need a catalyst to trigger the reaction .

 

[workinforwood]

Shoot a mile. I can't wait to try it. A painter's pot was purchased and should be here by the end of the week. No more friggin' air. When you say "no water" how would this work with water applied decals that have been dried for twenty-four hours.?

No water means no water. A decal that is dry, is no water. You can paint the mold with water base paint, once the paint dries it no longer has water in it and can be poured into...albeit painting a mold is useless for spinning a pen. Wood has water in it..so use dry wood, not fresh cut wood. Dry everything before using it. Color you alumilite with oil base paints.

 

[GouletPens]

No water means no water. A decal that is dry, is no water. You can paint the mold with water base paint, once the paint dries it no longer has water in it and can be poured into...albeit painting a mold is useless for spinning a pen. Wood has water in it..so use dry wood, not fresh cut wood. Dry everything before using it. Color you alumilite with oil base paints.

If you want to dye alumilite, use the alumilite dyes, available on their site. Pricewise, they're comparable to anything else you buy, but they are actually using the part A as the medium, so it's ideal for use in alumilite. I've used mixol dyes with success for dyeing alumilite. A neat effect is using a dye as a base, then using pearlex powders to get shiny swirls....neato!