Alumilite & Pearl X VS. ???????

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Russ Hewitt

Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2009
Messages
105
Location
Pasadena, Maryland., USA
I am on my (hopefully) last stage in the pen making addiction. I did cheap kits and expensive kits. I moved on to kitless bespoke pens. I then started doing my own stabilizing. I just ordered a 5 gallon pressure pot so I can make my own hybrid and resin blanks. I have been trying to do my homework. It seems like Alumilite slow is the big favorite. Is there any other product that is comparable when poured and when turned, that also might be cheaper? Also, what about the mica powders and dyes? Pearl X seems to be big as does Rolio, but is there a competitor that is worth considering. TIA. Russ
 
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Casters Choice, https://turntex.com/product/casting-resins/casting-dyes,-micas,-pigments,-and-glow-powder
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PTOWNSUBBIE (MOLDS, MICA, PRESSURE POT SHELVING) https://ptownsubbie.com/
Divine Pigments https://didtcs.com/collections/divine-pigments
Turners Warehouse https://www.turnerswarehouse.com/collections/resin-and-casting

I'm a huge fan of PROWNSUBBIE, they have made many custom molds for me. In addition to their standard molds.

Curtis at TurnTex does a great job, and carries so many brands now, including Alumilite Slow Clear

Eye Candy has an insane color choice

Divine Pigments will color match anything you may need
 
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I mostly use Eye Candy Pigments and they work perfectly for all my applications. I think mica powders are a personal preference.
 
My two cents worth. The Alumilite Clear Slow has always worked well for me. I always use it when I can. The demold time is 4 hours so your not having to wait all day or a couple of days to check out the blanks. As far as the hybrid and resin blanks go that's the only one I'd use but not the only one that would work. As far as molds go I live the HDPE molds. The mold last forever and the silicone plugs last a long time. I've only used a few brands of the mica powders and the only complaint I'd have about those is finding the color you want. Such as black. There's a rainbow of colors so the only thing is picking one out. I don't care for the dyes but that's only as far as what I cast. I'm sure there's other applications that they would work great for.
 
My two cents worth. The Alumilite Clear Slow has always worked well for me. I always use it when I can. The demold time is 4 hours so your not having to wait all day or a couple of days to check out the blanks. As far as the hybrid and resin blanks go that's the only one I'd use but not the only one that would work. As far as molds go I live the HDPE molds. The mold last forever and the silicone plugs last a long time. I've only used a few brands of the mica powders and the only complaint I'd have about those is finding the color you want. Such as black. There's a rainbow of colors so the only thing is picking one out. I don't care for the dyes but that's only as far as what I cast. I'm sure there's other applications that they would work great for.
I'm relatively new to casting and I'm already transitioning away from silicone molds. They don't last very long. I am liking the HDPE molds that I have bought. I use Alumilite Clear for most things. Liquid Diamonds for watch parts pens or clear casting hybrids.
 
Mica powders can be bought from Hobby Lobby, Arteza, etc. I tend to buy from those places rather than the turner sources because it is usually cheaper and they have great color selections. I really like the colors from Arteza and they often go on sale. Wine Country Mica has a large line of mica powders that are really nice as well, I have their table mat for using with casting so I don't damage the working surface.

The ptownsubbie molds are great, I don't like the lizard ones personally. Lizard ones are chunky and heavy and can leak some. There is also the Maneater blanks, they are pretty decent and just a different style of HDPE but easier to remove I guess.

Alumilite slow is great, no complaints. If you need something with a longer work time go with an epoxy instead. JB Royal is a great option for an epoxy that is designed for pens based on work time. It isn't as long as some epoxies for large projects but is faster than Alumilite. Turning epoxy is not any more difficult than Alumilite.

For polishing resin blanks check out Magic Juice from Stadium Pen Blanks. There isn't a better multi-step polishing compound that cleans and polishes resin blanks, the shine is amazing. You can get the JB Royal there as well.
 
I'm relatively new to casting and I'm already transitioning away from silicone molds. They don't last very long. I am liking the HDPE molds that I have bought. I use Alumilite Clear for most things. Liquid Diamonds for watch parts pens or clear casting hybrids.
Ken just out of curiosity why use epoxy over clear slow resin. I get just as good results with the urethane resin and I think it's a more durable resin with less chance of yellowing. I'm not try to make you change just trying to get another perspective. Thanks
 
I'm relatively new to casting and I'm already transitioning away from silicone molds. They don't last very long. I am liking the HDPE molds that I have bought. I use Alumilite Clear for most things. Liquid Diamonds for watch parts pens or clear casting hybrids.
Is liquid diamonds clear, and does it turn well?
 
Ken just out of curiosity why use epoxy over clear slow resin. I get just as good results with the urethane resin and I think it's a more durable resin with less chance of yellowing. I'm not try to make you change just trying to get another perspective. Thanks
If I use a vinyl backing on watch parts pens, the urethane tends to pull away from the vinyl. When clear casting a hybrid , any residual moisture in the wood, even stabilized wood, turns hazy where the resin meets the wood. Liquid Diamonds isn't affected by it. Liquid Diamonds works well in both scenarios.
 
Is liquid diamonds clear, and does it turn well?
Yes extremely clear and turns easily. They say it doesn't need to be under pressure but I still put it in my pressure pot. Once under pressure it needs to stay in the pot for 24 hours. I have a few coming out in about an hour. They are clear cast hybrids. I'll post them later.
 
If I use a vinyl backing on watch parts pens, the urethane tends to pull away from the vinyl. When clear casting a hybrid , any residual moisture in the wood, even stabilized wood, turns hazy where the resin meets the wood. Liquid Diamonds isn't affected by it. Liquid Diamonds works well in both scenarios.
Ken just out of curiosity why use epoxy over clear slow resin. I get just as good results with the urethane resin and I think it's a more durable resin with less chance of yellowing. I'm not try to make you change just trying to get another perspective. Thanks
Kenny. Look at this picture. Top two were Alumilite Clear, notice how hazy it is anywhere near the wood. The bottom ones are all Liquid Diamonds, clear as a bell. In the same batch of the Alumilite, I also had some without wood, they turned out very clear too, without any hazing. I don't see many making clear cast hybrids, like these. I really like them. Can you tell?😜
 

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Those are sweet. I see the deer again!! I understand wanting a clear blank and if it works for you them by all means use it. Like I said I wasn't wanting to try to change your mind just making sure I wasn't missing out on something. I see and read people doing g things I could never get to work. Doesn't mean it's bad just not for me. I do appreciate your openness to teach and direct others to a better turning experience. Thanks
 
Kenny. Look at this picture. Top two were Alumilite Clear, notice how hazy it is anywhere near the wood. The bottom ones are all Liquid Diamonds, clear as a bell. In the same batch of the Alumilite, I also had some without wood, they turned out very clear too, without any hazing. I don't see many making clear cast hybrids, like these. I really like them. Can you tell?😜
The haze is caused from the moisture in the wood, the wood should be bone dry if used with polyurathane (alumilite clear or clear slow). Best practice would be to put the wood in a toaster oven at 101 C (214F) prior to make sure its dry. You can also precoat the wood with epoxy and let it completely cure, then you can cast it with alumilite clear/clear slow.
 
The haze is caused from the moisture in the wood, the wood should be bone dry if used with polyurathane (alumilite clear or clear slow). Best practice would be to put the wood in a toaster oven at 101 C (214F) prior to make sure its dry. You can also precoat the wood with epoxy and let it completely cure, then you can cast it with alumilite clear/clear slow.
Yes, I know that. All that is unnecessary with liquid diamonds, kind of my point.
 
All of that is pretty much unnecessary with epoxy resins, of which Liquid Diamonds is a good low viscosity one with good machinability once fully cured.

There are a wide variety of epoxies available.
 
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