Alumilite - Is this the correct way?

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mountain_guy

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
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46
Location
Boone, NC, USA.
What I'm trying to do is cast some worthless Ivory in Black/Silver swirl Alumilite. I have the pressure pot, Black Alumilite dye and silver powder. This stuff is expensive and with me being poor, I want to make sure I'm doing everything correct.

From what I read on this site, it sounds like I need to mix two batches and pour both together at the same time to form the swirl.

Step One: Mix one batch of Alumilite with black dye
Step Two: Wait one minute and start batch two
Step Three: Mix Batch two of Alumilite with black dye and silver powder
Step Four: Pour both batches at the same time in the mold.
Step Five: Place mold in pressure pot at 70psi

If I followed these five steps will the end result be 3D Black/Silver swirl Alumilite blank?
Thank You,
Dave
 
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What I'm trying to do is cast some worthless Ivory in Black/Silver swirl Alumilite. I have the pressure pot, Black Alumilite dye and silver powder. This stuff is expensive and with me being poor, I want to make sure I'm doing everything correct.

From what I read on this site, it sounds like I need to mix two batches and pour both together at the same time to form the swirl.

Step One: Mix one batch of Alumilite with black dye
Step Two: Wait one minute and start batch two
Step Three: Mix Batch two of Alumilite with black dye and silver powder
Step Four: Pour both batches at the same time in the mold.
Step Five: Place mold in pressure pot at 70psi

If I followed these five steps will the end result be 3D Black/Silver swirl Alumilite blank?
Thank You,
Dave

I would:
1) Do several test samples to get the colors (not just the shade, but the
opacity) the way I want them. The opacity will determine how 3-D your blank looks- and whether you need to paint your tubes.

2) Omit your step #2. I have done 3-color pours where I mix 1, mix 2, mix 3 and pour as quickly as I can. (mixing for me is a 2-3 minute process with 3 colors). The layer definition has never been a problem- but kicking off before I get it poured has.

3) I don't literally pour both at once. It's a good way to pour on yourself or end up with weak swirls. Decide ahead of time if you want large swirls or small ones. Things like how heavy of a stream you pour and how high you pour it from affect the swirls.


<insert comment about poor Raiders fan here>
 
I sure would eliminate step number 2!!! If I am pouring 1 color, I use one cup. So I can pour an ounce of alumilite in a cup, add the color and stir, then reset the scale and add 1 ounce of the b and stir again then pour. For 2 colors you can also do that, but it starts to get tricky, and with 3 colors I find that I just don't have enough time as 1 person managing and stirring 3 cups. In those events I use two cups, and I mark the cups. If you have A 1.5, then you have a second cup you label B 1.5 and so on. You add the colors into the A cups. Once those are stirred in, you can pour the B cups into the A cups..it will save time this way because the measuring step is taken away. Mix them up really really good.

Testing is a good idea, you can do a test pour, just 0.3 ounces of each color poured into a cup and set into the pot and pressurized for a visual check. You can trim the cup, chuck it in the lathe and spin it if you want.

Ask yourself is there going to be a dominant color??? This is important. If I pour an equal amount of white and black into a mold, the end result is going to be a blank that is far more black than white. So..if I want the black and white to be more balance, I actually have to go with more of a 1/3 black 2/3 white combination. Black is a powerful color. Silver is a more difficult color to obtain too. Silver powder won't necessarily look like what you think. It may be more of a grey with some shimmer of silver hidden in it. These are things to think about.

Color blending..yes that will happen, it is a good thing or a bad thing, depends what you want. I like a bit of blending of colors most of the time, because blending creates transition. But..sometimes blending brings in colors you don't want. If you mix and pour a red and a blue real fast, then you end up with red and blue swirl but the transition effect is purple. So this is where you have your "1 minute" thought in your head. But it isn't quite right. Get the colors mixed and in the cups all ready to pour as soon as possible. Now you have everything ready to go, the lid is ready for you to quickly put it on, all that, so you just have to mix and pour. Hold on to the two cups. They should be "cold" right after they are mixed..cold being relative in meaning they are the same temp as they are in the bottle they came from. You will start to feel the cups warm up. Time is becoming critical and timing will involve some luck now too. Because they are warming up, they will blend colors less..they will still swirl, just not blend into each other as much. The more you wait, the less blending, but wait till it's too hot and you might get it poured but won't have time to pressurize it before it's too late. The longer you can hold out, the more seperation of colors you will have. It's better to be too early than too late. Hope this all makes sense to you.
 
I'm not worthy enough to ask The Master Alumilite Guru for help yet.

Bullchit! You are always welcome to ask me for any help I can provide! There are also a lot of other folks here on IAP now that have become ALumite experts as well. Sounds like your main question has already been answered. One big suggestion, though...

DO NOT FOLLOW ALUMILITES DIRECTIONS on adding the dye. They say to add the dye to part A, then add part B and mix. They are actually in the process of changing the directions to "my" method. That is to pour equal part of A and B into a cup and mix thoroughly. Then add the dye. The reason for this is when you first pour the 2 parts together, they will be cloudy. Once they are completely mixed, they will be completely clear with no streaks. Once you have reached this level of mixing, THEN add your dye and mix it in.

I have helped a lot of beginners with problems and the number one problem, BY FAR, is incomplete mixing of the 2 parts. It is not difficult if you follow my directions but if you add the dye first, you will not be able to see if you have it mixed all the way. Once you have done it a while and get a feel for what it takes to mix it, then you could do the dye first if you just really wanted to. There is no real reason to do so, though.

They used to suggest this since the carrier for the dye is part A and if you add too much dye, you could skew your ratio and the mix will not work because it will be part A heavy. However, their dyes are so potent that it takes very little to get good, rich colors and this little bit does not effect the ratio at all. The risk of getting a skewed ratio is a LOT lower than the risk of not getting it mixed thoroughly.

If you need any further help, feel free to PM me and I will send you my phone number so you can call and I can talk you though any additional issues. I don't mind at all.
 
DO NOT FOLLOW ALUMILITES DIRECTIONS on adding the dye. They say to add the dye to part A, then add part B and mix. They are actually in the process of changing the directions to "my" method. That is to pour equal part of A and B into a cup and mix thoroughly. Then add the dye. The reason for this is when you first pour the 2 parts together, they will be cloudy. Once they are completely mixed, they will be completely clear with no streaks. Once you have reached this level of mixing, THEN add your dye and mix it in.
I concur.
 
Curtis, I have seen you make comments about the cloudiness of Alumilite as it is being mixed and it turning clear as an indication that it is completely mixed a few times. This sounds very familiar to me from a product that is used in fishing rod making. it is used as a coating on the thread wraps for the guides. that is the only simularity though as the set time for this stuff is around 24 hours.
Now this goes a bit off subject but I did learn a thing or two about mixing resin while making fishing rods this last spring that may be helpful to folks here. one issue with mixing resin is getting bubbles in it. Now I am pretty sure that is never a propblem for a master like Curtis, but for the rest of the meer mortals in the group here is the method a lot of rod makers use to prevent any bubbles in there resin. first of all keep in mind that no bubbles at all are allowed in a rod wrap finish. any that they do get are removed by passing a flame close to the finish after it is applied this causes the bubble to expend and escape the resin. But as for how they keep bubbles out as they mix is to use a ball bearing or small metal rod in the cup. they then hold the cup at an angle and turn it. the rod or ball bearing rolls around the bottom of the cup and mizes the resin as it does. it never comes above the surface of the resin so never captures any air. Rod makers are mixing resin about 3 cc's at a time which is considerable less than what we would be using. but a comparably larger rod or bearing woudl still do the same job.
For rod makers they actually sell a machine that hold there mixing cup. but you can make your own with a microwave oven motor and a platfom that is tilted about 15 degress or so from level. Whatever angle keeps the bar rolling on the side of the mixing cup. you only want an RPM of 3 to 12 so Microvae turntable motors are right in the ball park.

I have thought of this several times and finally decided to mention it. hopes it helps a few of you get more bubble free casts. I do realize that any items you have in the casting will introduce it's own bubbles. The thread in a wrap tends to do the same thing. heat is a good way to deal with those. I know the working time for Alumilite is almost non exostant compaired to the rod wrap stuff. but some way of being able to warm it up before it sets may help with bubbles also.
 
Daniel,

Warming it up at all will cause it to set even faster! Plus, it warms significantly when it is setting. I have actually used an infrared surface thermometer on the block as soon as I took it out of the PP and the temp was 165 degrees F!

The ball bearing idea may work but I would think it would take too long to get it all mixed. Also, bubbles are not an issue, even when mixing, since all Alumilite clear resins really need to be pressure cast and that gets rid of any bubbles. I mix aggressively with a rubber kitchen spatula, scraping the sides and bottom of the cup as I go. I don't worry about bubbles at all and when I am done mixing, my resin looks like champagne. If doing plain clear casts, I get 100% bubble free and 99% bubble free on Worthless Wood. On cactus I do get some small bubbles but that has more to do with surface area and surface tension of the cactus material.
 
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