Alumilite Dying

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eharri446

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Can you use a dye made for PR with Alumilite? I needed a white dye and found one made for Castin Craft resin. However, I do not want to waste my Alumilite if it will not work.
 
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I read somewhere that dry powder pigments work best for alumilite, unless it's specifically designed to be used with it ... So the last time I was down at Hobby Lobby before I got my alumilite, I invested in a nice 64-pack of colored chalks, in a large variety of colors. It was only $12.99, and should last me for several years or longer!

I've found that the pigments, when powdered, mix together extremely well for color blending, and won't interfere with the alumilite curing process.
 
I read somewhere that dry powder pigments work best for alumilite, unless it's specifically designed to be used with it ... So the last time I was down at Hobby Lobby before I got my alumilite, I invested in a nice 64-pack of colored chalks, in a large variety of colors. It was only $12.99, and should last me for several years or longer!

I've found that the pigments, when powdered, mix together extremely well for color blending, and won't interfere with the alumilite curing process.



Got pictures?


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
I read somewhere that dry powder pigments work best for alumilite, unless it's specifically designed to be used with it ... So the last time I was down at Hobby Lobby before I got my alumilite, I invested in a nice 64-pack of colored chalks, in a large variety of colors. It was only $12.99, and should last me for several years or longer!

I've found that the pigments, when powdered, mix together extremely well for color blending, and won't interfere with the alumilite curing process.

Thanks Skie for that bit of information. I will remember this.
 
One thing worth mentioning about Alumilite dyes: All of their colored dyes, while seemingly expensive are are very very strong. A little bit goes a long way. Not only that, they cross-link with the resin. The dyes are just that--DYES--they are completely transparent.

White and black on the other hand contain pigments and will make your casting opaque. Again, they are pretty heavily loaded so a little bit goes a long way enabling you to make opaque colors quite easily.

FWIW,

Bill
 
Awww ... that's no fair, oldtoolsniper, tryin to get a peek at my pens and get me disqualified for the Bash before it's even started!


Now, I have some other stuff I have layin about, lemmie get the ol shoot'n'stare out and we'll have us a looksie!



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Mmmm ... ok, that's a 48-color chalk pack, not 64 ... still a very nice selection of hues, and they do blend together nicely!

The can of Great Stuff on the right is only there to show you where those yellow caps came from. I like that there's nothing in the way inside to interfere with a nice flat bottom to the blank, so that it's very easy to mount it on the lathe.

The top right area has 4 blanks shown ... 2 of them recently demolded, the green one still mounted on the chuck mandrel (I just pulled it off for this pic), and the dark blue/black one sitting on top of a mirror compact (it's NOT mounted yet).


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Here's a closer look at the blanks shown ...


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And here's a close up look at that finished blank with my fingerprints all over the silly thing ... I should have cleaned it up a bit before taking the photo, but life's messy when you're taking pictures on a bed in a room with the lights out. The golden color you see in this one (in the blank itself) is from brass shavings that I had mixed in with the abalone shell, to add to the alumilite.
 

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Awww ... that's no fair, oldtoolsniper, tryin to get a peek at my pens and get me disqualified for the Bash before it's even started!





Now, I have some other stuff I have layin about, lemmie get the ol shoot'n'stare out and we'll have us a looksie!







attachment.php




Mmmm ... ok, that's a 48-color chalk pack, not 64 ... still a very nice selection of hues, and they do blend together nicely!



The can of Great Stuff on the right is only there to show you where those yellow caps came from. I like that there's nothing in the way inside to interfere with a nice flat bottom to the blank, so that it's very easy to mount it on the lathe.



The top right area has 4 blanks shown ... 2 of them recently demolded, the green one still mounted on the chuck mandrel (I just pulled it off for this pic), and the dark blue/black one sitting on top of a mirror compact (it's NOT mounted yet).





attachment.php




Here's a closer look at the blanks shown ...





attachment.php




And here's a close up look at that finished blank with my fingerprints all over the silly thing ... I should have cleaned it up a bit before taking the photo, but life's messy when you're taking pictures on a bed in a room with the lights out. The golden color you see in this one (in the blank itself) is from brass shavings that I had mixed in with the abalone shell, to add to the alumilite.


I could go look it up but I really don't know what a BASH is.

That being said you answered my questions. Thank-you.

For some reason the big sticks of chalk that kids use on sidewalks was stuck in my head.

Next thing would be that ground chalk would be a pigment which obscures rather then a dye which if mixed light enough is transparent.

I like the way those colors came out.

Thanks

Roy


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Yeah, sidewalk chalk would work too, but I don't think it's available in this variety of colors .... :)

And while yes, it does obscure fairly well, it's also still somewhat translucent, allowing you to see perhaps 1/4 inch or more into the blank if you don't use too much pigment... I tried one earlier where I didn't add enough red. The result came out PINKish and very girly-pretty, which went over pretty darn well for a mistake, if I do say so myself.


Oh, and every year in February, they hold the IAP's Birthday Bash, with a lot of various contests involving turning pens, guessing wood species, making pen boxes and pen displays, and various other tomfoolery ... it's all good fun, with prizes provided via donation from the IAP membership and vendors! :)

In any case, for a pen to be legit as a contestant in the bash, it cannot ever have been shown here or anywhere else online. Also, winning pens in each contest may be eligible to be donated permanently to the IAP Collection, which travels around with Mark James to various functions and conventions... :)
 
Yeah, sidewalk chalk would work too, but I don't think it's available in this variety of colors .... :)

And while yes, it does obscure fairly well, it's also still somewhat translucent, allowing you to see perhaps 1/4 inch or more into the blank if you don't use too much pigment... I tried one earlier where I didn't add enough red. The result came out PINKish and very girly-pretty, which went over pretty darn well for a mistake, if I do say so myself.


Oh, and every year in February, they hold the IAP's Birthday Bash, with a lot of various contests involving turning pens, guessing wood species, making pen boxes and pen displays, and various other tomfoolery ... it's all good fun, with prizes provided via donation from the IAP membership and vendors! :)

In any case, for a pen to be legit as a contestant in the bash, it cannot ever have been shown here or anywhere else online. Also, winning pens in each contest may be eligible to be donated permanently to the IAP Collection, which travels around with Mark James to various functions and conventions... :)



Thanks
Now I have to go read about BASH.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 
Yeah, sidewalk chalk would work too, but I don't think it's available in this variety of colors .... :)

And while yes, it does obscure fairly well, it's also still somewhat translucent, allowing you to see perhaps 1/4 inch or more into the blank if you don't use too much pigment... I tried one earlier where I didn't add enough red. The result came out PINKish and very girly-pretty, which went over pretty darn well for a mistake, if I do say so myself.


Oh, and every year in February, they hold the IAP's Birthday Bash, with a lot of various contests involving turning pens, guessing wood species, making pen boxes and pen displays, and various other tomfoolery ... it's all good fun, with prizes provided via donation from the IAP membership and vendors! :)

In any case, for a pen to be legit as a contestant in the bash, it cannot ever have been shown here or anywhere else online. Also, winning pens in each contest may be eligible to be donated permanently to the IAP Collection, which travels around with Mark James to various functions and conventions... :)



Thanks
Now I have to go read about BASH.


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app


Don't worry in 2 DAYS you will read about it on the front page. :)
 
You can use other dyes with no problem as LONG AS they are not water based and have no water in them!

Any water and you will get bubbles.
 
Skie_m,

Not sure at all what watercolor dyes are, but then I'm not a watercolorist or painter of any kind. I've posted this link before in a couple of other places. It's the chapter from an online book that covers mold making and casting. It has a lot of recommendations for mold making and casting methods and materials as well as sources of dyes and pigments that you aren't likely to find on IAP.

The whole thing is kind of long but well worth your time.

Link: Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting

The section pigments and dyes is about halfway down in section 4.1.6

Bill
 
Hehe ... watercolors are pigments that are merely carried by water. You generally get them in a powder or paste form and mix with water or add water before using them to paint. In essence ... it's powdered chalk. It's also easy to use and take care of ... just let it dry out and you can put it away ... when you want to use it again, add water and go for it!



I only put that reference in there as a dig vs the "no water" thing from Ethan ... ;)


Oh, and Jay ... you'll notice if you look very carefully, that several of those chalks have a bit of material scraped off the long sides. I used a sharp knife held at a high angle to scrape the pigment material I wanted from each of those pieces. On the right side of the lower set, you'll see that there's some that has been scraped from 3 red tinted chalks ... the light pink and medium red, as well as dark red. Those three together were used to make the red cabochon blank you see pictured.

For the green one, I used the dark green, the lime green, and the turquoise blue. For the purple, I used the dark purple, the violet, and I added a light blue there as well.

The large amount of medium blue went to a blue one that's already received by the customer, and some of the medium red one went into the pink blank that was already delivered with the blue.

The dark blue/black one sitting on top of the mirror compact hasn't been glued in place because nobody ordered it. I made it as an experiment, just to fool around and see what it would look like. When she sees it, I assume she'll be going "squee!!!" for hours on end. :)

I did mix the various colors in the hope that I'ld get a varying shade of color as swirls in the alumilite, but that didn't happen. Instead, I got a very even mix of color throughout, which is good in it's own way ... I know how it'll act when I use this method to color.
 
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Alumilite's white dye contains Titanium Dioxide which also lowers the opacity of the resulting colors.

Uhh ... think that's backwards, buddy!

It should be that it increases the opacity (lowering the translucency) of the resulting colors.
 
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