Alabaster

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tackett2005

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Has anyone every heard of a pen turned out of alabaster or soapstone?
Can you turn these materials with wood working tools and a standard lath?
Were would I fine blanks out of these?

Need help richardson.

Chris
 
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Hey Chris, Check out my classified ad: http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27628

The second photo, two pens on the right side are ones that I made from alabaster. There are several other pictures of finished pens on here that have been made from the alabaster that I have sold as well.

And yes, you can use your standard wood tools. Alabaster is a very soft stone and can be turned very easily. It can get brittle the thinner you go though.
 
Alabaster is very soft and easy to work, I just started playing with it myself.

I found out that thin CA soaks right into the stone, making it a little more forgiving when turning thin.
I'm still trying to figure out if the CA is soaking into micro-cracks or into the stone itself. (BTW - Alabaster is gypsum)

<b>Dust Collection is a must!</b>

Yes, all you need is standard wood turning tools and a woodturning lathe
I found scrapers seem to work better than skews or gouges
 
Aren't you guys afraid you will get B-U-T-FUL pens that crack instantly if dropped?????????

Alabaster, as I understand it, is VERY prone to cracking on "impact".
 
Soapstone can also easily be turned. I agree with Ron about the use of scrapers here. Soapstone is, however, prone to blowouts during drilling, so super oversize blanks are a must.
 
...and will easily crack when pressing the pen parts together. Not only must you turn very carefully, but assemble the same way. Try reducing the pressed in portion of the parts just a little using sandpaper and epoxying them in place. And as Ed mentioned...don't drip the pen. But, they do look really nice and make an awsome addition to a collection.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Aren't you guys afraid you will get B-U-T-FUL pens that crack instantly if dropped?????????

Alabaster, as I understand it, is VERY prone to cracking on "impact".
Click to expand...
 
I've turned a few and both Don and Ed are right, During assembly I have found that if you insert both top and bottom in the press at the same time it tends to lessen the cracking and they do make beautiful pens

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Originally posted by its_virgil
<br />...and will easily crack when pressing the pen parts together. Not only must you turn very carefully, but assemble the same way. Try reducing the pressed in portion of the parts just a little using sandpaper and epoxying them in place. And as Ed mentioned...don't drip the pen. But, they do look really nice and make an awsome addition to a collection.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by ed4copies
<br />Aren't you guys afraid you will get B-U-T-FUL pens that crack instantly if dropped?????????

Alabaster, as I understand it, is VERY prone to cracking on "impact".
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
I know what it takes to break a Polyresin pen - I have dropped MANY. The ones on concrete DO crack sometimes.

I have had TWO come back to me at shows (from hundreds sold). The customer expected and got a replacement pen. HOWEVER, I would NOT want to have to replace alabaster, just because of the labor involved in making another one.

Just a FWIW - I prefer to avoid headaches where possible - this looks like a potential migraine!!
 
Originally posted by randbcrafts
<br />Hey Chris, Check out my classified ad: http://www.penturners.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=27628

The second photo, two pens on the right side are ones that I made from alabaster. There are several other pictures of finished pens on here that have been made from the alabaster that I have sold as well.

And yes, you can use your standard wood tools. Alabaster is a very soft stone and can be turned very easily. It can get brittle the thinner you go though.
Click to expand...

Richard,

Are your alabaster blanks truly alabaster, or are they a Tru-Stone product?
 
Roy,
I've been trying some alabaster but keep getting small chip outs at the ends near the nib, CB and clip where it is very thin. Not really chipped out but a crack which results in a slightly different color from the rest of the pen. Tried "soaking" with thin CA but it didn't seem to help. Any suggestions??
 
Mannie are you getting chips or cracks when assembling or when turned? I haven't had this when turning but have had hairline cracks appear when pressing together. I have used thin CA after turned to size then finished with MM to 12000, brasso,mequriers plastic polish and a final coat of TSW. The thin CA hardends the alabaster. When assembleing if when you press the parts into the tube and your press presses on the alabaster you will get these hairline cracks or chips so to help lessen this press both sides of the tube at the same time so as to have even pressure on the tube and not on the alabaster end that has no hardware.... I'm sure this is clear as mud LOL...


Cav, I bought my alabaster from Richard and its real alabaster not a tru-stone product
 
Thanks for the response Roy, I didn't see the question in time.
William, as Roy said they are true Italian Alabaster. You can definately tell a difference when turning. When turning alabaster all you get is a very fine dust. I have used CA on my alabaster pens and it has worked well for me.
 
Originally posted by OKLAHOMAN
<br />Mannie are you getting chips or cracks when assembling or when turned? I haven't had this when turning but have had hairline cracks appear when pressing together. I have used thin CA after turned to size then finished with MM to 12000, brasso,mequriers plastic polish and a final coat of TSW. The thin CA hardends the alabaster. When assembleing if when you press the parts into the tube and your press presses on the alabaster you will get these hairline cracks or chips so to help lessen this press both sides of the tube at the same time so as to have even pressure on the tube and not on the alabaster end that has no hardware.... I'm sure this is clear as mud LOL...
Click to expand...
Roy, the cracks appear after sanding and polishing before/when removing the bushings. Didn't intend to hijack Chris' thread. I'll see if I can get a good pict tonight and post in a new thread.
 
I soaked mine in thin ca also because I was afraid of the cracks. Don't know for sure if it helped or not. I'm still afraid to drop it!
 
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