A Different Chevron Method - A Work In Progress

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mark james

IAP Collection, Curator
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Spoiler alert - There is no finished pen, yet! This is a thread on methods.

Back in April "Skiprat" (Just Another Pen) suggested for folks to attempt a complete "360 degree Spiraling Chevron Pattern". I was really hoping someone else - anyone else would step up so I could watch and learn. Alas, nobody has replied. "Hello, anyone out there???" (Would make a great song lyric!) Sigh, silence from my Segmenting Mentors.

So, I contemplated several different methods, based on what I had done previously - Building a square blank with 4 Chevron inlays with spaced blocks on the corners. I could change the dimensions of the inlay thicknesses, but how to get rid of the small corner spacers?


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Or, construct Chevron inlays for slots cut into a round dowel (4, 5, 6, 7 slots).


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Same dilemma; on the finished pen there are the straight spacers.

I also thought of constructing 1/2 Chevrons cut from a basic block into even numbered pie shaped staves, flipping every other to give the 360 degree pattern. This method I had not tried before, and was skeptical of my skill set.

But, I believe each would work, with advantages and disadvantages for each method. Others may have better results than I anticipated.

I then remembered that I actually had a similar method, which is how I constructed the Chevron Finials - sanding down points to meet in the middle.


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While the finial pattern was on the top, the same sanding technique should work on the side, I just needed to expand this from 1/4" long to 2 1/2" long, hopefully retaining the symmetry. I settled on constructing a basic Chevron inlay (anywhere from approximately .20"-.30" wide, 2 - 2/1/2" long. Then sanding each side to a measured point to assemble a polygon.

Sheesh, now is when it gets complicated.

"Strap yourself in Chewbacca!"

NOTE: I did poorly in High School Math, and remembered essentially none of this before diving into this project. Where was Don Ward when I was sleeping in Algebra II? And I readily acknowledge that my terminology and explanation may not be correct - Feel free to correct any of my mistakes! One reason for this thread is for others to take whatever you can and run with it.

I decided to try to construct this for the Knurl Kit with 8 Chevrons because of the approximate dimensions. My last effort had 7 Chevrons, and it was not a complete ring (although that was not the intent).

The desired pattern needed matching points for all 8 Chevrons around the circumference (Final outer diameter of the pen), with each Chevron the same outer width. After a rough sketch of the 8 Chevrons sanded to fit together, and drawing a ring for the final outer diameter, an Octagon appeared, and I suspected a way to get some dimensions.

The outer side of each Polygon (opposite the inner angle) - side "a" (lower case), needed to be very close to the radius of the final outer diameter of the pen (1/2 of the Diameter). These would be sides: "b" and "c" of the diagram below. (I told you it would get complicated… Keep reading, it gets worse if you are like me with a poor background in Math - but we can relearn.)

I needed to figure out the dimension of the side opposite to the inner angle because this is the width of each Chevron. In the equation, this side is "a" (a small a). This was my unknown.

The inner angle is "A" ( a capital A), which is 45 degrees (360 degrees/8).

The outer diameter of the finished Knurl Bushing is .472", so the Radius (1/2 of the diameter) is .236". This is the dimension of sides b and c.

So I had angle A and sides b and c. Time to learn what I should have learned in 10'th grade…


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Octagon - Knurl Chevron Calculation

a2 = b2 + c2 - (2bc) * cosine of angle A

b and c = .236"
A = 45 degrees
Cosine of A = .7071 (I cheated, Googled this! I remember hearing about cosines... Second cousin to a stop sign, no?)

a2 = .0557 + .0557 - 2(.236)(.236) * .7071

a2 = .1114 - .0788

a2 = .0326

a = .1805" Width of the Chevron = .18"

Below is a cheat sheet for the dimensions of Chevron Inlays (or any inlays for that matter) for a few examples if anyone wishes (and I do hope so!) to try this also. (I was bored sitting in an airport).


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So, I now believed my Chevrons needed to be .18" thick, and sanded to an angle of 45 degrees to construct the "Star Pattern" which hopefully may result in a 360 degree chevron without any "spacers."

Fast forward - The chevrons were constructed, but blew apart while being sanded. I suspected just too thin for my skill set.

So, I changed the entire pattern to a Hexagon (6 inlays vs 8). Re calculating the dimensions, I came up with a width of .236" for the Chevrons, and the point angle is 60 degrees. This worked fine. In the thumbnails below are the basic steps.

This morning I turned the blank to fit into a collet chuck, and drilled the blank. Alas, each of the joint lines between the chevrons are showing light, so the brass tube will show. I have painted the tube and will still glue it up and turn to get some hints of what I need to do to readjust my dimensions.

So feel free to add any thoughts on this method. This is a thread that any critique would be appreciated, and we all could benefit from. Brutal criticisms are also welcomed; because I'll take them and use them!! And if you see any potential to use any of this, be my guest!!!

I'll add pictures in a few days of the finished blank (I may not assemble it unless I am wrong about its flaws), so we can critique it as well.
 

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WHOAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This thread may blow the internet up!! I'm always amazed when we talk on the phone at some of your ideas!! I could never explain mine in that detail that you just did! I'd rather make a video with pics :) And I can't wait to see the finished product :)
 

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Here is a picture of the drilled blank, and 1/2 turned. Round enough to fit into my collet.

For me, the key for this attempt is the match in the chevrons in the "valleys," I believe this is where the 360 degree match is meaningful.

Maybe just a thicker inlay, but at the same sanded angle for the Hexagon? If so, then I could go back to the angle for the Octagon.
 
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WHOAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This thread may blow the internet up!! I'm always amazed when we talk on the phone at some of your ideas!! I could never explain mine in that detail that you just did! I'd rather make a video with pics :) And I can't wait to see the finished product :)

Before working with children the last 26 years, I was a consulting editor for a research journal. Writing I'm comfortable with; I hate, hate doing demos and speaking. I'd rather stay in the background an be invisible (easier when I was thinner).
 
Mark - that is what I've been thinking of doing as well - it's just that some of us still have to work! My attempts to create a blank in that manner were unsuccessful. I could never get them sanded to consistent angles. Your use of jigs certainly helps - I think that a second sanding jig might be necessary to support the chevron after the first angle has been sanded. When I tried it I couldn't keep the chevron from slipping and producing uneven angles.

I'm pretty sure you will finish your attempt before I get back to mine - I've got some other things I'm working on in preparation for the Summer Extravaganza!
 
Mark - that is what I've been thinking of doing as well - it's just that some of us still have to work! My attempts to create a blank in that manner were unsuccessful. I could never get them sanded to consistent angles. Your use of jigs certainly helps - I think that a second sanding jig might be necessary to support the chevron after the first angle has been sanded. When I tried it I couldn't keep the chevron from slipping and producing uneven angles.

I'm pretty sure you will finish your attempt before I get back to mine - I've got some other things I'm working on in preparation for the Summer Extravaganza!

Hi Steve.

In a previous post JT suggested double-sided tape and it worked like a charm. The brown block was cut to the angle needed, and double sided tape held the Chevron fine, and was easy to peel off. The same block was used for both sides of the glued-up chevron. Just make sure that the chevron is firmly on a flat surface so the bottom of the block and the bottom of the chevron are flush, and it really went easy.

Edit: Regular double-sided clear tape from an office or craft store - not double-sided carpet tape, they are gummy.

You can see the tape in this picture.
 

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I don't sweat advanced math. My son graduated as an ME with a double major in math and engineering. His wife was a math major and taught math and physics BK (before kids). It isn't what you know but who you know.
 
I really need to get back in the shop and work on pens. I do have a method to do this and is alot simplier than what you are attempting but I do like what you are doing. You might be able to fill the voids with clear resin and the pattern will take on even a different look. Especially if you can get the spaces the same size as the staves. I am sorry but did not stop to read the book so if this is what you are going to do then accept my apology. I hate math so I look for trial and error approach:) Will be watching.


By the way I use turners double sided tape. Very secure and peels nicely.
 
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Ok... I'm back and having read it, I'm suitably impressed. I don't understand it and may have approached a part differently but I like the result so far

If I could have made the inlays to begin with, I think I would have struggled to glue /,assemble the star shape. As there will be a tube in the middle I would have cut grooves in a sacrificial dowel.

Will this lead to the elusive spiral chevron? Using my method above but cutting the grooves on the slant would create a spiral ( well, helix really)

Looking forward to seeing the result:biggrin:
 
Ok... I'm back and having read it, I'm suitably impressed. I don't understand it and may have approached a part differently but I like the result so far

If I could have made the inlays to begin with, I think I would have struggled to glue /,assemble the star shape. As there will be a tube in the middle I would have cut grooves in a sacrificial dowel.

Will this lead to the elusive spiral chevron? Using my method above but cutting the grooves on the slant would create a spiral ( well, helix really)

Looking forward to seeing the result:biggrin:


Hmnnn, If I change the router bit in "Frankie" I could probably cut triangular slots. That may work.

Spiral Chevron? Probably not from me. Cutting grooves on a slant may need to come from the "Ratcave", actually, I believe they already have viewing your website...again! If I am working with top to bottom staves/inlays, the best I can work towards is alternating colors. Close, but not the same visual affect. But, it still would be fun to try :).
 
I bookmarked it. I'll have time to read this in the airport on Sunday. Love your work Mark, thanks for sharing.
 
Brilliant Mark. Can't wait to see the finished pen. I notice in photo IMG_0840.jpg you have an addition to your Byrnes table saw. It looks like a short fence. What size screw do you use to fix that to the Byrnesl fence. It is just what I need as my slices tend to kick out as they get near the end.
 
Brilliant Mark. Can't wait to see the finished pen. I notice in photo IMG_0840.jpg you have an addition to your Byrnes table saw. It looks like a short fence. What size screw do you use to fix that to the Byrnesl fence. It is just what I need as my slices tend to kick out as they get near the end.

Hi Bryan:

Here is a picture of the main additions I use - all are simple aluminum angle bar from Home Depot/Lowes/Ace, etc. and some misc screws/nuts.

1. Higher fence for the miter gauge - I like the added height.
2. A rectangular bar to give some room by the blade for material to fall/be pulled to the right. NOTE: There is a gap below this as I mounted it on top of the stock fence. I used the holes that are already present. Not sure of the screw size - just take the fence off and take it to the store to get the fit.
3. 2 angled bars that I slide under the rectangle, and tape on - easy on/off. I need to make a 3'rd bar for an in-between length. These work great. I like the end of the bar to be very close to the forward edge of the blade, hence having several.
4. I ground a small file (harbor freight ?), to a pin point and use it to lift or pull the material to the right as soon as it has cleared the blade. Sometimes this is not necessary, but this also works great when needed.

Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the info Mark, unfortunately it arrived too late! I was at the ER yesterday morning. I trimmed my finger nail and a bit more! Once my finger heals I'll be right on that.
 

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