Segmenting 3D Printed Molds
- Thread starter Rangertrek
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Would you be able to make one with a Maltese cross for the firefight type pens?
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Mr Vic
Member
Interesting! Does the mold become part of the pen blank or are the segments removed and glued up?
Don Rabchenuk
Member
The resin is poured into the mold(be sure to use a pressure pot) then turned down and finished as you would any acrylic or alumilite blank.
Just an idea but not sure if it would work, the the outside edge were higher than the inside, you could pull it out in one piece. Then turn over and pour the lines in a second pour.
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Rangertrek
Member
I should be able to do a Maltese Cross design. Can you send me an example?
Rangertrek
Member
The mold becomes part of the pen blank, turn, and design is revealed.
John, what is the material cost to make these one use molds?
Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
Rangertrek
Member
The material costs will vary with each mold and design based on the amount of filament used. The filament is about $20 per kilogram spool. The printer will take about 3-4 hours to print a mold. If you are asking about the cost to buy a mold, I sell them for about $4 and up.
Lucky2
Member
Neat idea John, but just so I understand this completely. I need to ask, is this more or less a disposable mold that gets turned away to make the blank? And to achieve the different colors in the blank, you pour them at the same time as your pouring the main color?
Len
Len
jttheclockman
Member
Sort of on the same line of question as Len, will all resins adhere to that plastic or better to use epoxy resin?? Does the plastic needed to be treated such as sanded to give tooth or some chemical to give tooth?? I know not all plastics like to be glued together and takes a special adhesive. Also resins such as Silmar41 has a tendency to shrink when curing. Have you tried these using different resins?? Thanks.
mecompco
Member
I've not tried casting them yet, but there are a couple of free versions of similar molds on thingiverse.com that you can download and print. The 3D printers I've used leave a rather rough finish, unless you slow them way, way down. So, plenty of grain for the casting media to bite into. Not sure about the best printer media--there are several kinds, PLA, ABS, etc.
One reason I've not got around to trying it is that I use PR with no pressure. Knowing that PR tends to shrink a bit, I'm not sure that it would work. I'm thinking Alumilite or epoxy in a pot would be the best bet.
Looking forward to hearing from those who have tried this.
Rangertrek
Member
Len, yes this is one time use mold. You can use all the same color for all cells in the mold, or you can fill certain cells with different colors. I make the molds 2mm taller than they are square, so you stop the pour short of the top, and not have colors run together. You can also pour one color, let cure, them pour another color.
Rangertrek
Member
Len,
Last edited: