2nd & 3rd Multi-color pours

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Seer

Seer

Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2009
Messages
1,789
Location
Surprise, Arizona
Ok it seems that 1 minute makes a ton of difference in a multi-color pour. The first was a Copper & Silver pour and the sliver as I was pouring it went to a jell state (really thick) and the copper was a little better somehow they mixed but I do have air bubbles which you all told me but lesson learned. I turned one round to see what it would look like and you can see the bubbles maybe I can fill them but the blank is nice looking.

Number 2 pour was an Antique Bronze & Silver and the pictures show the setting process for me. from just poured plus 10 minutes to 20 minutes where it stopped changing,
The blanks I cut and had to round one to see what it looks like and I love the colors and how this came out I was in a little hurry and do have some chips but when the pen is done I think it will be nice. Anyways let me know what you think. I used the Jaqurd Powders in all of these.
Jerry
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5113.jpg
    IMG_5113.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 347
  • IMG_5114.jpg
    IMG_5114.jpg
    89.5 KB · Views: 254
  • IMG_5117.jpg
    IMG_5117.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 237
  • IMG_5118.jpg
    IMG_5118.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 251
  • IMG_5124.jpg
    IMG_5124.jpg
    87 KB · Views: 273
  • IMG_5126.jpg
    IMG_5126.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 199
  • IMG_5127.jpg
    IMG_5127.jpg
    43.6 KB · Views: 314
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Thanks as for the MEKP I used 5 drops per ounce. The second bronze and silver looks like a root beer float coloring. The only thing I don't like about castin craft is, that it is kind chippy so I am going to try another local one.
 
Seer said:
The only thing I don't like about castin craft is, that it is kind chippy so I am going to try another local one.
Click to expand...


Don't waste your time... get a can of Silmar. It's much better and much less expensive. Once you try it, you will understand.
 
I can get a gallon and the mekp for $43.00. I think silmar would caos me more. Jasonr here said it is good.
 
I'm going to put a +1 for going with Silmar. It's not much more, maybe $50 shipped, and when it comes to advice or tips/tricks you won't have the problem of "will my resin react the same way?". With my many learning experiences a couple things I can add are when it comes to color separation timing is everything and you've hit both sides of the spectrum. With the first blank I'd pour a bit earlier bc what I've experienced is once 1 color has started to gel it has it's own "elasticity (sp?)" so to speak. It's hard for me to put it in words but take your first blank for example. The silver and copper are a bit more separated than swirled. Thats because either both or one color tried and succeded to pull itself back together after swirling them. It was just past that sweet spot of the gel timing. The second blank is a hair too quick and thats why you had more swirling than separation. That's also why you had air bubbles with one and not the other bc there was room for them to rise and not get trapped in the second casting. Please don't think I'm being judgemental. There's nothing wrong with either blank, I think they're both beautiful, but my hope is to help clear thinkgs up and show why the pictures of the curing in the mold process changed so drastically in such a short time. Also, if your timing is way off, or a million other reasons like: too much pigment in 1 color, not enough catalyst in 1 color, or you weren't wearing a blue sock on your left foot, one of the two colors will sink to the bottom bc (and this is my assumption) as it cures and solidifies it sinks and you'll have what I call a 50/50 blank and depending on how bad they look it'll go in my "undesirables" box. I think you're well on your way to creating more awesome blanks and I wish you the best!
 
Last edited:
Thanks Brooks after the first pour which at 9 minutes is when the silver started the gel stuff and at 7 minutes on the other so I am going to try 8 minutes next time and watch carefully. I think as long as I keep the MEKP the same it should be ok but you never know the bronze and silver kind of reminded me of a root beer float which made me want lol. Anyways thanks for all the help. Onward and upward learning as I go.
 
Nice casts Jerry.

The local source is for a silmar equivalent casting resin, not casting craft (and I believe everyone's been dissing casting craft here). Sometime we should get together and split a 5 gallon bucket.

As for gel time Jerry, it depends a lot on temp. If I'm using the heater in my ultrasonic it can be under 5 min with 3-4 drops. Leave it at room temp and it can be 20 min. For swirling I prefer a slower gel time - it takes longer, but the window where it's thick enough but not too thick doesn't close as fast.
 
I really have to agree with Jason. I don't preheat my resin bc I want that open gel time to do my thing. Yes it takes 20min or more but you can use that time to start mixing another batch of blanks. Still check your catalyzed resin frequently to ensure you don't miss your window. Plus the longer gel time gives the air bubbles more time to escape and since the catalyst creates heat it will help with air as well. You'll find the method that works best for you.
 
Is Castin Craft more brittle than Silmar I find it is a lot like Acrylester in chippiness. No matter how light the touch and using carbide woodchuck like tools it will still chip a lot but it can also do very nice ribbons, go figure lol
 
Less catalyst will help a small amount but it'll still be brittle. Silmar is much less chippy, you still have to be mindful of the catalyst amount though. Too much heat with any resin will cause it to be brittle.
 
Seer said:
I can get a gallon and the mekp for $43.00. I think silmar would caos me more. Jasonr here said it is good.
Click to expand...


I get the Silmar shipped for $44 and change. There are some local places in some areas that carry Silmar, unfortunately, we don't have one around here.
 
Phunky_2003 said:
If you feel the casting craft is brittle, try less mekp.
Click to expand...


It makes no difference with CC. It is brittle...

If I remember...when I used it many years ago, it also took longer to gel and cure. Been a while since I've used it, so my memory may be lying to me.:eek:
 
I think part of the problem with CC is that it may have been sitting on the store shelf for a long time - and you have no good way of knowing how long.

Since my casting tends to be occasional bursts, I've definitely noticed that the properties of the resin change as it ages. It gets thicker and sets up faster.
(yes, it's started to polymerize in the can).
 
jason_r said:
I think part of the problem with CC is that it may have been sitting on the store shelf for a long time - and you have no good way of knowing how long.

Since my casting tends to be occasional bursts, I've definitely noticed that the properties of the resin change as it ages. It gets thicker and sets up faster.
(yes, it's started to polymerize in the can).
Click to expand...


CC has a different formulation. Doesn't matter if you purchase it at the hobby store or another source, it will be brittle.

With old resin, it tends to take longer to gel and cure as the accelerators have evaporated or started to.:wink:
 
As is said in Salmon finshing country "Fish On"

You are firmly hooked and headed down the slippery slope -- It should be a great ride.

Note that you can under turn blanks and recast in clear resin if you get too many bubbles to fill otherwise.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom