# 2 taper and drill chuck

[TexasSteel]

Ok here goes. I bought a #2 taper adapter to fit a drill chuck last year or so. I have been trying some stoppers. Been having problems with A. the chuck staying on the taper and B. the taper staying in the headstock. Nothing worse that finishing a stopper and the thing slipping and getting chipped and flying around the garage... Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!! I have wiped all parts with acetone to make sure all clean and grease free.
Thanks , Jeff

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Use a threaded rod with a washer and wing nut to hold the arbor in, if your arbor can take it ...if not, at least use the tailstock to keep it from falling out.

Other than having the taper and hole absolutely clean, I don't know what else to tell you - even a little speck of dust can get in the way of a snug fit!

Andrew

 

[ldb2000]

Like Andrew said you need a "Draw Bar" to hold the chuck in the head stock . You can use a piece of all thread or a long bolt and some washers and you must have a chuck with a threaded hole in the mt2 taper that the draw bolt can thread into .

 

[jkeithrussell]

I had this exact problem. If you are like me, the drawbar will help, but it won't fix the problem. (really, the design is pretty silly -- you have a removable arbor that has to be secured by a drawbar that pulls the arbor out of the jacob's chuck). The best solution that I found is to get the bottle stopper mandrel from Arizona Silhouette. It eliminates the need for a jacob's chuck and separate arbor. You will need to get the larger style stopper kits. Tighten it up with the drawbar and you're ready to go.

 

[penhead]

Kinda depends to on which stopper kit you may be using.
I have acquired the mandrel from Ariziona Silhouette, the one from PSI, and a couple more variations.

Also, you might check out Ruth Niles website, especially if you are using her kits.
She offers a nice mandrel for her stopper kits,
AND, she also has a plans for a jig for making stopper kits that should work on any kit,
and as i recall its only the price of a screw and a piece of scrap wood.
http://www.torne-lignum.com/make_stoppers.html

 

[TexasSteel]

I had this exact problem. If you are like me, the drawbar will help, but it won't fix the problem. (really, the design is pretty silly -- you have a removable arbor that has to be secured by a drawbar that pulls the arbor out of the jacob's chuck). The best solution that I found is to get the bottle stopper mandrel from Arizona Silhouette. It eliminates the need for a jacob's chuck and separate arbor. You will need to get the larger style stopper kits. Tighten it up with the drawbar and you're ready to go.

Thanks for the info! I have the old style AS stopper mandrel. Gonna order one today. By the way I see you are in Houston... Crosby here...Thanks again! jeff

 

[Daniel]

I'm not sure just how you would get a drill (Jacobs) chuck to work at the head stock. they really do not take vibrations or sideways force well. at least not in my experience. when on the drill press or the tail stock of the lathe by far the majority of the force is a compression force. in turning the compression force is not much.

either a stopper mandrel as has been mentioned or a collet chuck is what you need. also a scroll chuck. the scroll chuck is the head stock closest kin to a Jacobs chuck. equipped with certain jaws that is. I don't know the price of the stopper mandrel but would be willing to place a totally blind bet that it is the lower cost by at least a cheap dinner out.

 

[MobilMan]

If the chuck is comming off the taper that fits into the chuck, put the two together & smack the end of the shaft into the chuck with a piece of woof. Drive it in--not just stick it in. When I first got my drill press, the Mt kept comming out. Called the compamy. They sent me a replacement & told me to knock it into the press. It's never came loose since.

 

[jkeithrussell]

If the chuck is comming off the taper that fits into the chuck, put the two together & smack the end of the shaft into the chuck with a piece of woof. Drive it in--not just stick it in. When I first got my drill press, the Mt kept comming out. Called the compamy. They sent me a replacement & told me to knock it into the press. It's never came loose since.

I've done that with mine with a mallet and it still comes loose when you put pressure on with the drawbar. The drill press is different. All of the pressure that is generated when you use the tool is pushing up toward the chuck and arbor. With the jacobs chuck on a lathe headstock, the pressure from the drawbar is pulling the arbor out of the chuck. I suppose you could use some sort of epoxy or liquid steel, but the custom stopper mandrels provide a much more secure base for making stoppers.

 

[Art Fuldodger]

I put my stopper mandrel (from CSUSA) into a drill chuck, which goes into the taper at the headstock. It works quite well.

Last night, for reasons I won't admit to, I had to take the stopper off of the mandrel, take the mandrel out of the chuck, and the chuck off of the lathe. After finishing some other work, I put the drill chuck back into the taper, put the mandrel in the chuck, and the stopper on the mandrel.

When I fired up the lathe, I expected to see it wobbling like crazy. Nope. Sufficiently concentric that I'd need a dial indicator to find otherwise.

I don't know what the AS mandrels are like, but Penn State has some (http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PK-BS1-MJ.html) that thread over the spindle, and will eliminate the need for a drill or collet chuck.