Finally got some knots to work

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Phil K

Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2024
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12
Location
Stanardsville, VA USA
I'm new at turning, and just started trying knots. After several blow outs, I finally got the glue right and these are the first I did worth showing.
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I like what you did. They came out very well and precise. Is that a Sierra vista on one and a standard Sierra on the other? That would explain the 2 different size inlay materials from what I see. Or did you use 2 different size blades? Thanks for showing and am sure there will be more to follow.
 
jttheclockman said:
I like what you did. They came out very well and precise. Is that a Sierra vista on one and a standard Sierra on the other? That would explain the 2 different size inlay materials from what I see. Or did you use 2 different size blades? Thanks for showing and am sure there will be more to follow.
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Those are both PSI Gatsby grand. One is 3mm segment and the other is 2mm.
 
It appears you have cracked the code and broken a basic rule of Celtic knots. How in the world did you use two different widths of infill material, yet both turned out? Did you use different saw blades?
 
KenB259 said:
It appears you have cracked the code and broken a basic rule of Celtic knots. How in the world did you use two different widths of infill material, yet both turned out? Did you use different saw blades?
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That was my question to him which he basically said he used 2 different size infills. But I too think he either had to use 2 different size blades. I questioned the size of the kits but he said both the same.

The only thing I can think of is he cut all the way through on all his cuts and he used whatever size infill he wanted. I never tried that but am guessing it can work because you are building all cuts with same thickness. Hope he answers because I too am curious.
 
JT, when I've used infills of different thickness, I've used the same blade but added a spacer to the stop block to shift the stock enough for the infill to fit.

I've sometimes had to do that when the infill veneers vary enough the 1/16 kerf is tight by a Post-it note or two.

If I'm making a 5-layer infill from aluminum flashing and dyed veneer, I know the flashing is 1/128" (x 3) and the veneer are typically slightly over 3/128" (x 2). I end up with infill somewhere around 9/128" but sometimes exactly 1/16".

Phil, good work. Making these is fun, and once you find a methodology that works consistently for you, it comes easy. Blow-ups are part of the process.
 
jttheclockman said:
That was my question to him which he basically said he used 2 different size infills. But I too think he either had to use 2 different size blades. I questioned the size of the kits but he said both the same.

The only thing I can think of is he cut all the way through on all his cuts and he used whatever size infill he wanted. I never tried that but am guessing it can work because you are building all cuts with same thickness. Hope he answers because I too am curious.
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Sorry, I misunderstood. Those are pre-made sheets of black plastic sandwiched by aluminum. It comes in 2mm and 3mm sheets. The white is sign material, white with a thin blue outside coat. Hope that helps! I didn't cut all the way through. Here is the link: https://www.turnerswarehouse.com/products/segmenting-material?_pos=1&_sid=9681927e4&_ss=r
 
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Brian G said:
JT, when I've used infills of different thickness, I've used the same blade but added a spacer to the stop block to shift the stock enough for the infill to fit.

I've sometimes had to do that when the infill veneers vary enough the 1/16 kerf is tight by a Post-it note or two.

If I'm making a 5-layer infill from aluminum flashing and dyed veneer, I know the flashing is 1/128" (x 3) and the veneer are typically slightly over 3/128" (x 2). I end up with infill somewhere around 9/128" but sometimes exactly 1/16".

Phil, good work. Making these is fun, and once you find a methodology that works consistently for you, it comes easy. Blow-ups are part of the process.
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Love the post-it note idea! My inserts differ by the exact thickness of a business card so I use that on the stop block
 
I am sorry but I still do not get it. If you are not cutting all the way through no matter where you put postit notes or cards the kerf of the blade does not change. It just moves up or down at the stop. You have to match the kerf with the same amount of infill as the blade. Maybe one of you can take some photos and show us this better. What are you using to cut the kerf? Again question for either of you because you do both the same thing. As Ken said you may have solved an age old question here and this should be included somewhere in the library as reference material. Here is one of my jigs. Maybe show us your jig and mark it up where you are putting shims. Thanks.
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OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH is Ken right about that?? Then I can see that. You are cutting the kerf to match the thickness of the infill and not the other way around as long as it is larger than the original kerf cut. That explains it.
 
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Yes, Ken and JT. I'll make two cuts so the kerf matches the infill. I no longer have the sled I used because I replaced my table saw a few years ago and haven't made any knotted pens.

In JT's sled, I'd put the Post-it shim between the stop and the stock.

There is increased risk having a failure because you're doubling the number of times the blade goes through the crossing of the knot. Using aluminum generates more heat, too.

I never pull the sled back through the cut, and always make multiple blanks at a time.

Seeing the recent run of knots makes me want to do some again.
 
You are all just "knotty". Now you've made me start working on a new sled for my bandsaw. The one I have just doesn't lend itself for adding a shim in so I can tweak the kerf to match the infill material.

Unfortunately all I can do for now is the paperwork. I just finished moving all of my equipment to one side so the Drain Surgeon can get his snake to one of the cleanouts. A chronic, sluggish, drain from the kitchen and laundry causes a backup through a floor drain right into my shop about twice a year. It's about 50' feet of 2" inch line in/under the concrete floor that had insufficient slope when it was installed.

Dave
 
Hi all, I'm new on here and think I really screwed up the replies by not understanding the question. (Shouldn't reply while watching a movie I guess lol!) I used different blades for the different thickness inserts. Luckily I have a table saw blade with exactly 3mm kerf for the thicker ones. I had to make a jig to run a skilsaw through for the narrow infills. If the blade is narrower than the insert, I use a spacer at the stop block and make another pass. I have some maple veneer business card blanks I got cheap at Lee Valley which are nice spacers and also look nice as an insert in darker wood. They are a matching thickness to my bandsaw blade so it works well.

I hope this helps!
 
Phil K said:
Hi all, I'm new on here and think I really screwed up the replies by not understanding the question. (Shouldn't reply while watching a movie I guess lol!) I used different blades for the different thickness inserts. Luckily I have a table saw blade with exactly 3mm kerf for the thicker ones. I had to make a jig to run a skilsaw through for the narrow infills. If the blade is narrower than the insert, I use a spacer at the stop block and make another pass. I have some maple veneer business card blanks I got cheap at Lee Valley which are nice spacers and also look nice as an insert in darker wood. They are a matching thickness to my bandsaw blade so it works well.

I hope this helps!
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Ok, that all makes sense then.
 
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