Please grade my work

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GRAM

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I am confused and need help. I have turned about 30 pens. My first few were horrible. I watched lots of videos and read lots of articles. The next several were better, but still needed help. I went into my local Woodcraft store and received good turning tips from them. I haven't taken any classes.
Here are the last few pens I have turned. My big question is the little scratches, is that a scratch or the wood grain. It feels completely smooth and was completely smooth when I was done turning.
Please don't hold back on any criticism. This is Cocobolo wood. This is going to be for a PSI executive pen.
 

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Cocobolo intrinsically has voids. You have done a great job of turning, without filling the voids with sanding dust--WELL DONE!!

Try some different woods--woods that will be smooth, generally the darker the wood the more you will see scratches--ziricote, dark walnut or even dark redwood (although this also is porous). In short, look for wood that has less "character" so you can more easily see what your finish looks like.

Most important, keep turning-you are doing GREAT!!
 
I ditto everything said above. Some people prefer to leave some of the wood pores showing, as that is a natural part of the wood. Some parts of your blank that has lines are most likely just the grain. If you use a medium or thick CA glue for your finish, it will likely fill in the pores and smooth out the surface.

As Ed said, you're doing great!
 
Looks goid.

Cocobolo is an open grain wood—this is what you're seeing.
Coco's dust is also potentially harmful—it's toxic to some.
Moreover, it's also a serious sensitizer: some people have a bad reaction immediately and some have none or very little but the more they're exposed to the dust, the worse it gets.

Wear a good mask when turning cocobolo.
 
Cocobolo is indeed a sensitizer (means that even if you aren't allergic to it, the allergy can develop after repeated exposure). It is a true rosewood (Dalbergia) and these contain quinones (crystalline compounds irritating to the skin and mucous membranes) called dalbergiones or neoflavanoids that are potential sensitizers.

As Gary (GaryMGg) and Ed (ed4copies) have already stated, Cocobolo naturally has pores or streaks. I think that's what you are seeing as scratches. The type of finish you use will make a difference in how they appear in the finished pen. Friction polishes like PensPlus, Mylands, and Shellawax leave a more natural wood appearance and "feel" to the wood. Cyanoacrylate (CA) finishes like GluBoost, Starbond, and Stick Fast are acrylic plastics that polymerize a smooth, glossy finish because they fill the pores and usually darken them.

Assuming that these pores are the "scratches" you are referring to.

Capture.JPG

It looks like you have a good fit between the blank and the bushings. And I agree with Gary, Ed, and Kevin (KMCloonan), - you are doing great! I think your grade is heading towards an A. I'm anxious to see the finished product.

Dave
 
Thank you everyone for all the amazing comments and advice. I am still navigating my way around CA glue. I haven't had much success with it.
I do however like the natural wood finishes more so I have been sticking with Mylands friction polish. Also using Yorkshire paste for fine sanding.
I am definitely going to be more careful around Cocobolo wood.
BTW, I am a teacher and I have asked to help make pens for the school board. Someone saw a pen I made and loved it. So I am trying to finer tune my skills.
We will be using Macasar Ebony with PSI executive pens. I will keep you all posted on the results.
Either way, I am having fun and pretty much obsessed with pen turning.
 
If possible, I would sand and apply finish in the lengthwise direction. I see just a couple of tiny, tiny lines that look like sanding marks from sanding on the lathe. But would the normal customer or recipient see them- likely not.
 
GRAM said:
Thank you everyone for all the amazing comments and advice. I am still navigating my way around CA glue. I haven't had much success with it.
I do however like the natural wood finishes more so I have been sticking with Mylands friction polish. Also using Yorkshire paste for fine sanding.
I am definitely going to be more careful around Cocobolo wood.
BTW, I am a teacher and I have asked to help make pens for the school board. Someone saw a pen I made and loved it. So I am trying to finer tune my skills.
We will be using Macasar Ebony with PSI executive pens. I will keep you all posted on the results.
Either way, I am having fun and pretty much obsessed with pen turning.
Click to expand...
I also prefer a natural finish on timber.....this is one process that I use....

Beaufort Ink - Achieving success with melamine as a pen finish

Achieving success with melamine as a pen finish
www.beaufortink.co.uk www.beaufortink.co.uk
 
Thank you everyone for all the amazing comments and advice. I am still navigating my way around CA glue. I haven't had much success with it.
I do however like the natural wood finishes more so I have been sticking with Mylands friction polish. Also using Yorkshire paste for fine sanding.
I am definitely going to be more careful around Cocobolo wood.
BTW, I am a teacher and I have asked to help make pens for the school board. Someone saw a pen I made and loved it. So I am trying to finer tune my skills.
We will be using Macasar Ebony with PSI executive pens. I will keep you all posted on the results.
Either way, I am having fun and pretty much obsessed with pen turning
 
GRAM said:
Thank you everyone for all the amazing comments and advice. I am still navigating my way around CA glue. I haven't had much success with it.
I do however like the natural wood finishes more so I have been sticking with Mylands friction polish. Also using Yorkshire paste for fine sanding.
I am definitely going to be more careful around Cocobolo wood.
BTW, I am a teacher and I have asked to help make pens for the school board. Someone saw a pen I made and loved it. So I am trying to finer tune my skills.
We will be using Macasar Ebony with PSI executive pens. I will keep you all posted on the results.
Either way, I am having fun and pretty much obsessed with pen turning.
Click to expand...
Ebony is a tricky wood to turn/work with due to the checking/cracking it often does. While a beautiful wood, you might work with woods that are a bit more friendly to turn until you gain more confidence. Wenge is often used as a ebony substitute that's easier to work with, but splinters some and the dust is toxic. Bocote comes to mind as a wood with spectacular gain that's pretty easy to turn.

Here's the process I follow for using a CA finish on pens. I very rarely have any issues. There are plenty of ways to finish pens, and lots of experts here on the board.


Good luck!
 
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