Cellulose Acetate and Ebonite Fountain Pens

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hooked

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I haven't posted any pens lately, so I thought I would show a couple I just finished. Two pens. I originally was making one body and cap but didn't like the way they looked together, so I ended up making two pens. Once it is buffed, this cellulose acetate has some amazing depth and colors. It looks incredible in the sun. Nice stuff.

The black ebonite cap on my second pen was a test for my sanding and buffing process. I think my buffing process passed the test.

Cellulose Acetate (Kyoto material: Turner's Workshop)
Black Ebonite (SEM: Vermont Freehand)
Brass accents
Jowo #6 Nib

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I haven't posted any pens lately, so I thought I would show a couple I just finished. Two pens. I originally was making one body and cap but didn't like the way they looked together, so I ended up making two pens. Once it is buffed, this cellulose acetate has some amazing depth and colors. It looks incredible in the sun. Nice stuff.

The black ebonite cap on my second pen was a test for my sanding and buffing process. I think my buffing process passed the test.

Cellulose Acetate (Kyoto material: Turner's Workshop)
Black Ebonite (SEM: Vermont Freehand)
Brass accents
Jowo #6 Nib

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Incredible work, a level that I aspire to attain. I love seeing your work on here.
 
I just LOVE this pen! I think it is the epitome of the quality of pen I strive to make! If I may - how did you find working with the cellulose acetate? I understand it is very sensitive to heat? Also, love the brass accents and the top finial - did you custom make the finial and cut your own brass? Not looking to copy, but would love to be pointed in the right direction as I continue my path in this fun craft
 
I just LOVE this pen! I think it is the epitome of the quality of pen I strive to make! If I may - how did you find working with the cellulose acetate? I understand it is very sensitive to heat? Also, love the brass accents and the top finial - did you custom make the finial and cut your own brass? Not looking to copy, but would love to be pointed in the right direction as I continue my path in this fun craft
Cellulose acetate turns very easily but is extremely heat-sensitive. This is a cellulose acetate made by Erinoid and described as fully cured. I found this material easier to work with than vintage cellulose acetate tubes I have worked with. The vintage stuff seems to warp if you look at it wrong. Slow drilling with lubrication and a small break after every few passes made it problem-free. It threads easily and shines like nothing else once buffed.

I make my brass rings. I do laser engrave and use metal stamping for finial coins myself, but not this one. This finial coin is a 3-D printing design, my maker's mark. I use a company called Shapeways that utilizes a lost wax casting process of my 3-D design and casts my coins out of silver, brass, copper, bronze, gold, or platinum. I am gathering the tools and knowledge to do this myself, but for now, I have my higher-end finial coins made for me. I am enrolled in a jewelry-making class for lost wax casting that starts in June. Hopefully, I will be able to do it myself after that class.

Sean Newton has a video on using Blender to make finial coins, which would be my recommended route for learning how to make these. That is where I found out about Shapeways.
 
Cellulose acetate turns very easily but is extremely heat-sensitive. This is a cellulose acetate made by Erinoid and described as fully cured. I found this material easier to work with than vintage cellulose acetate tubes I have worked with. The vintage stuff seems to warp if you look at it wrong. Slow drilling with lubrication and a small break after every few passes made it problem-free. It threads easily and shines like nothing else once buffed.

I make my brass rings. I do laser engrave and use metal stamping for finial coins myself, but not this one. This finial coin is a 3-D printing design, my maker's mark. I use a company called Shapeways that utilizes a lost wax casting process of my 3-D design and casts my coins out of silver, brass, copper, bronze, gold, or platinum. I am gathering the tools and knowledge to do this myself, but for now, I have my higher-end finial coins made for me. I am enrolled in a jewelry-making class for lost wax casting that starts in June. Hopefully, I will be able to do it myself after that class.

Sean Newton has a video on using Blender to make finial coins, which would be my recommended route for learning how to make these. That is where I found out about Shapeways.
Thank you so much for the detailed answer. As I said, your pen is a great challenge to all of us to make something so stunning!

I have some old Ceboplast I bought years ago and am slowly getting to the point where I want to turn it, but as you said, look at it funny and it moves! The cellulose acetate looks like a good middle ground to try.

Good luck with the lost wax process. It is interesting and hard but gives some unique pieces. I've tried sandcasting with aluminum and brass and it's not easy on larger parts - hopefully wax is easier!

Thank you again for sharing!
 
I haven't posted any pens lately, so I thought I would show a couple I just finished. Two pens. I originally was making one body and cap but didn't like the way they looked together, so I ended up making two pens. Once it is buffed, this cellulose acetate has some amazing depth and colors. It looks incredible in the sun. Nice stuff.

The black ebonite cap on my second pen was a test for my sanding and buffing process. I think my buffing process passed the test.

Cellulose Acetate (Kyoto material: Turner's Workshop)
Black Ebonite (SEM: Vermont Freehand)
Brass accents
Jowo #6 Nib

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That's an amazing work! Unbelievable looks of both of them and your fine skills are visible in every detail! Chapeau!
 
I haven't posted any pens lately, so I thought I would show a couple I just finished. Two pens. I originally was making one body and cap but didn't like the way they looked together, so I ended up making two pens. Once it is buffed, this cellulose acetate has some amazing depth and colors. It looks incredible in the sun. Nice stuff.

The black ebonite cap on my second pen was a test for my sanding and buffing process. I think my buffing process passed the test.

Cellulose Acetate (Kyoto material: Turner's Workshop)
Black Ebonite (SEM: Vermont Freehand)
Brass accents
Jowo #6 Nib

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Man, I couldn't believe my eyes. And I think my english is not enaugh to explain what I have felt when I saw your pens :)
Jealous? No. I think this is something like dreaming "uhhhm, will I do pens like them one day?"
They are really good.
Bravo 🤌
 
I haven't posted any pens lately, so I thought I would show a couple I just finished. Two pens. I originally was making one body and cap but didn't like the way they looked together, so I ended up making two pens. Once it is buffed, this cellulose acetate has some amazing depth and colors. It looks incredible in the sun. Nice stuff.

The black ebonite cap on my second pen was a test for my sanding and buffing process. I think my buffing process passed the test.

Cellulose Acetate (Kyoto material: Turner's Workshop)
Black Ebonite (SEM: Vermont Freehand)
Brass accents
Jowo #6 Nib

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Very nice finish .
 
How do you manage the logo ? I am struggling in India to get one done . Is it a casting or laser cut or what could you kindly. Indicate !!
 

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How do you manage the logo ? I am struggling in India to get one done . Is it a casting or laser cut or what could you kindly. Indicate !!
I created the logo for 3D printing and had it cast in silver, brass, and copper with a company that does lost wax casting. I used a company called Shapeways to cast those finials, but they just filed for bankruptcy and went out of business. I ordered a batch before they shut down, but I am now using a laser engraver. It is not nearly as good-looking as the cast pieces. Other casting companies are online, but I haven't tried any others yet.
 
WoW! Lovely pen! Would like to know if you made the feed of Ebonite and how does that help the pen write? Or, do you purchase the feeds, and from where? P
 
Than you. What's the typical pricper piece ?
It depends on the material and what state you get it in (unpolished, polished, patina, antiqued, etc.). It also depends on the weight of the material used. Based on prices I paid with Shapeways, Sterling silver would cost me about (US Dollars) $16/piece unpolished. Brass and copper were more like $5-6 per piece unpolished. If they polish it for you, the prices go up about $5 per piece. If you get some kind of finish or treatment, costs go up from there.

The bigger problem was processing time. Once you submit your design, it takes about 2 months to get the order. There were also some setup fees the first time I ordered. Recurring orders did not have the setup fees.

WoW! Lovely pen! Would like to know if you made the feed of Ebonite and how does that help the pen write? Or, do you purchase the feeds, and from where? P

I don't believe either of the feeds I used on these pens are ebonite. They are long gone, but I am pretty positive they were injection-molded plastic feeds from Meisternibs. However, I do get ebonite feeds from FPnibs.com or Flexible Nib Factory. The only time I have used one was on a 14k gold nib upgrade I did, and the person who got it loves the way it writes.
 
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