First Laser Segmented Attempt (Learning)

Greetings all,

Today I made an attempt to make a segmented pen using the laser box process developed by Richard (amtechrs). I appear to be at a rough start, but I did learn a lot.

I made the segmented "box" blank using walnut, cherry, and padauk. I glued the segments together using black CA glue.

#1 The glue, I think, seeped into the wood and discolored it (especially the cherry). Next time I will use regular, clear, CA.

#2 I filled the cavity of the blank with Alumilite Clear Slow with black dye. I did it to help with drilling. I think the black Alumilite also seeped into the wood and added to the discoloration. Next time, I am going to fill with Alumilite, but just leave it clear.

#3 I sanded the blank before applying a GluBoost finish and I think some of the sanding dust got left behind in some of the voids in the lasered areas as there were some light colored dots that showed up after finishing. I only sanded with 600 and 800 grits anyway. Next time I will apply finish without sanding first.

#4 I dry sanded the GluBoost finish starting at 600 and ending at 2000 grit per the instructions in "Magic Juice" by Stadium Blanks. Magic Juice is new to me and I just received it today in a shipment from Drop Anchor Creations. The process was super easy and the shine it left behind is simply stellar. I may be done with MicroMesh and wet sanding from now on.

So, Failure taught me some lessons about making and using laser segmented blanks and just how meticulous and skilled Richard is. Success taught me a very positive lesson about Magic Juice. Anyhow, here are the pictures.

Dave

PS As always, I used Ed's Improved Fit Cigar Bushings from Exotic Blanks which provides a subtle but wonderful improvement in the fit between the lower blank and the center band.

Looking very good for road test.

Very nice. I'm impressed with what some of you are doing with the lasers. Well done!

David would you mind sharing how you got started with these? Thanks

Wow. Looks good Dave

OK, so I saw the heading and skipped the narrative to get into the 'meat' of the issue (apologies Dave!). The three views of your pen that you posted are awesome! I have read about the laser issues and the 'segmented box' issues, and I applaud those involved - the populace awaits guidance!! For me - I embrace innovation!

Dave, day one with this process looks like a very good success and learning experience. A beautiful pen indeed.
keep at it big boy! I really have been liking the glue boost finishes , although a low humidity day down here on the South Texas coast is in the 80% +. For which that I understand is not compatible with glue boost. …..Smokey

I am also following the progress on this site regarding lasers for segmenting - it's almost a step function improvement/disruption.

I have seen laser cut blanks like Kallenshaan Woods - these were novel when they first came out but were something you had to go buy (still are).
But the work I've seen by Richard, and now you, Dave, it brings the capability into our respective workshops (of course we need to acquire the laser equipment, which is no small matter), but it's something that is within arm's reach, and could change the segmenting landscape permanently as more and more pen turners develop novel techniques with their lasers. Cool stuff, and I hope to be able to take part in it someday.

Kenny Durrant said:

David would you mind sharing how you got started with these? Thanks

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I owe my start to Richard Santos (amtechrs) who posted some blanks and pictures that showed his process about a month ago, just about the time I had ordered a 10 Watt Diode Laser. One of the online design tools, Boxes.py, is what helped me understand and make the connection between blanks and boxes. The blanks are essentially a small box where the inside of the box is just a little smaller than a pen tube.

The first struggle for me was to get the kerf and kerf offsets figured out so the pieces would fit together but not too tightly or too loosely. Once I had successfully designed and built a couple of little "regular" boxes, I decided to try to make something like Richard did. My design is really basic compared with the intricate stuff that Richard is doing. I essentially used an "offset" tool against the "box" sides to make the design for the inlays.

Dave

Wow, Dave!

First run you say?

Looks amazing to me for first time.

Very nicely done

Beautiful work, Dave, despite the flaws you point out! Considering this is a first attempt, you're well on your way to making some outstanding pens. Richard Santos has started something big.

That looks pretty awesome considering it was a practice piece for you.

Awesome job, Dave!! That's an amazing first attempt. Mine were definitely not as good! What you'll figure out too, is how much to offset the outer finger edges, since those get turned away much more. I draw an end view of the box, with the finish diameter overlay to determine the offset of the edge required to achieve the desired offset once turned. Can't wait for your next one!!

amtechrs said:

Awesome job, Dave!! That's an amazing first attempt. Mine were definitely not as good! What you'll figure out too, is how much to offset the outer finger edges, since those get turned away much more. I draw an end view of the box, with the finish diameter overlay to determine the offset of the edge required to achieve the desired offset once turned. Can't wait for your next one!!

Click to expand...

The offset is what I was working on just this morning. The approach I took was to draw a tooling rectangle (or trapezoid) based on 1/4 of the perimeter of the finished pen using the bushing diameters and tube length as inputs.

I should be able to use this to help estimate how the finished product will look after it is turned so I can make adjustments to the design. The method isn't perfect, but it seems to be close based on the lightburn file I used compared to the tooling trapezoid and scaled pictures of the first Cigar blank I made.

Thank you so much for your inspiration and all of your help.

Dave

Looks like you're getting it all figured out! Also, looks like you are using the "Closed Box" selection. I like to use the "Regular Box" selection, and of course, set it to 4 sides and closed ends. It gives me a male finger box joint on the ends of the panels, rather than the female, as shown in your illustration above. It can give a little more character to using the offset as your design. Keep it up Dave!!