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Oops! I meant to make a separate post, not to reply to this post.As a "segmenter", I love what you have done! I do not find it 'too busy,' although your are pushing the limits
The patterns are excellent and precise, so no issue there. The choice of timbers are great as they contrast nicely to highlight the design. In summary - well done! Thanks for sharing.
he is using a different approach to segmenting these if you read his last thread. He shows photos of what he does and basically he is doing these on a flat surface. He cuts 4 sides and basically build a small box and they fit together like puzzle pieces. and then drips CA in to lock things together and then drill for tube. Pretty clever and save on needing rotary equipment. To me a much better system but each method allows for details that one or other can not. Check it out.
Thanks, John. I missed that, however, my two dimensional mind is still having difficulty in grasping his process.
I did too until I saw the photos and it is quite simple. He is building a laser cut out pieces and putting together as a flat puzzle. When he joins the sides they actually have tabs on them that easily slip together as he builds a 4 sided box. But those tabs are part of the design.
Thanks Todd! Yes, the black lines is just clear CA, actually. It seems to pick up the black from the edge burn from the laser. I'm going to experiment with filing the burn off and see if that reduces the black lines for certain applications....
I've never tried this with any laser segmenting, but perhaps the strategy of adding CA to the sandpaper to work up a slurry to fill the gaps would give the colors a more tight transition? I sometimes to that to fill thin cracks and I was thinking of attempting this method sometime in the near future with a lasered blank.
Thought I'd expand on this a bit. The laser kerf, thus cut edge of the wood, is not square. Especially on thicker material, it tapers in slightly at the bottom as the energy of the beam dissipates. I offset the geometry of the pattern to accommodate for the kerf, so the cutout inside of a panel is offset to the inside, while the piece that fits into that cutout gets offset outside. The amount I offset results in the pieces fitting fairly snug at the bottom surface and a slight gap at the top, which works well for wicking the CA into. The resulting black line seems to make the results pop more, for sure. You could offset the geometry a little more, with symmetrical designs, and alternate top and bottom between the pieces to make a sort of wedge fit, but the CA won't wick. Well, now that I say that, I haven't tried thin CA. I've only used medium.... Hmmm....
Hi Robert, thank you for the suggestion on the Jr. Gent kit. (II) I have a few on order! I've started to design the 'box/blank' for those, but I don't know the length of the tubes. Most instructions include that, but I'm not finding that detail anywhere, even the replacement tube section. Do you happen to know the exact length of the tubes? If not, I'll just have to practice some patience (hard for me) and wait for them to arrive...
