Blood wood

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Hippie3180

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We haven't worked with blood wood up until now, and I have to say I'm a fan. Beautiful burnt orange coloring with darker grain that the ebonite seems to complement. This one has no inlay, but features a sleek modern look with ebonite rings at body and cap that highlight the beautiful wood coloration and grain.

Blood wood with ebonite sleeve and section

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Gorgeous pen. How long are you ebonite sleeves? Do they run all the way into each blank or are they just a few mm long?
Thank you so much!

The sleeves run all the way up into the body and cap. This is to help protect from ink leakage leaching into the wood as well to protect the nib from drying out.
 
Gorgeous pen. How long are you ebonite sleeves? Do they run all the way into each blank or are they just a few mm long?
Thank you so much!

The sleeves run all the way up into the body and cap. This is to help protect from ink leakage leaching into the wood as well to protect the nib from drying out.
 
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Gorgeous pen.

Have you tried Redheart yet? Very similar but a bit redder than bloodwood, typically.
Thank you.

We have not, I was expecting this to be more red, given its name. I think it's still a beautiful color and grain.

I'll have to see if we can get our hands on some Redheart.
 
Thank you.

We have not, I was expecting this to be more red, given its name. I think it's still a beautiful color and grain.

I'll have to see if we can get our hands on some Redheart.
Cook Woods had it on sale last month so I picked up 3-4 boards of it and am using it for cutting boards, cheese boards, and coasters.

Due to the color, it makes a great contrasting accent. I've not turned it for a pen yet.

If I want red, I typically turn a figured maple blank then dye it red with some wood dyes I have. Very jewel-like red tones.
 
Cook Woods had it on sale last month so I picked up 3-4 boards of it and am using it for cutting boards, cheese boards, and coasters.

Due to the color, it makes a great contrasting accent. I've not turned it for a pen yet.

If I want red, I typically turn a figured maple blank then dye it red with some wood dyes I have. Very jewel-like red tones.
Oh, the dyeing tip is good to know. I saw that you buy from Cooks in a previous post. I'm going to take a peek, locally our choices are very limited.
 
Stunning combination! I have turned a few Bloodwood pens, but nothing kitless (yet).

If you are looking to try some different woods and don't want to commit to buying whole boards, I have found WoodShopGas on ebay to be reasonably priced and you can buy what exactly what you want, species, quantity and he ships quickly. He has some Birdseye Bloodwood. It doesn't have the density of birds eyes that maple can, but it is still pretty cool.


I have only just begun my journey into kitless, so I hope you don't mind a few questions for you (sorry in advance):
  1. Do you sleeve the wood with solid ebonite first and then cut & thread the tenon/drill and tap bores? Or do you do all that first and then glue in the sleeves?
  2. Looks like CA finish, how do you treat the ebonite portions, do you just CA over turned/sanded ebonite and then polish the whole body/cap or is there special treatment/process. So far, I have only used ebonite for making sections.
  3. Are you doing all of this on a wood lathe?
The one kitless pen I made with a hybrid blank, I used the Alumilite portions for the threading and tapping. To try to protect and seal the wood inside the body and cap, and to keep the nib from drying out, I used thin CA to soak/seal the inside of the body and cap. It seems to have worked pretty well.
 
Stunning combination! I have turned a few Bloodwood pens, but nothing kitless (yet).

If you are looking to try some different woods and don't want to commit to buying whole boards, I have found WoodShopGas on ebay to be reasonably priced and you can buy what exactly what you want, species, quantity and he ships quickly. He has some Birdseye Bloodwood. It doesn't have the density of birds eyes that maple can, but it is still pretty cool.


I have only just begun my journey into kitless, so I hope you don't mind a few questions for you (sorry in advance):
  1. Do you sleeve the wood with solid ebonite first and then cut & thread the tenon/drill and tap bores? Or do you do all that first and then glue in the sleeves?
  2. Looks like CA finish, how do you treat the ebonite portions, do you just CA over turned/sanded ebonite and then polish the whole body/cap or is there special treatment/process. So far, I have only used ebonite for making sections.
  3. Are you doing all of this on a wood lathe?
The one kitless pen I made with a hybrid blank, I used the Alumilite portions for the threading and tapping. To try to protect and seal the wood inside the body and cap, and to keep the nib from drying out, I used thin CA to soak/seal the inside of the body and cap. It seems to have worked pretty well.
First off, you are correct in your spelling, Bloodwood is all one word. Oops!

1) We drill the ebonite as per a usual pen, then epoxy in place. I'm not sure if that's the right way, but works for us.
2) The ebonite portions are treated just like the wood. You can do the section that way as well, but I've read that buffing makes a big difference with ebonite. I don't have a buffing wheel though so I do the best I can.
3) Yes, wood lathe.
 
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Oh, the dyeing tip is good to know. I saw that you buy from Cooks in a previous post. I'm going to take a peek, locally our choices are very limited.
Cook puts species on sale almost daily. I just wait until the woods I want are on sale.

Good luck!
 
I love Bloodwood... but it is one of the timbers that I am allergic too. I have gifted most of my stock away. Excellent finished pen, I love the mix of materials and the finish is superb! Thanks for sharing. 👍 👍
 
Gorgeous pen.

Have you tried Redheart yet? Very similar but a bit redder than bloodwood, typically.
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.

However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.

 
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.

However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.

I wonder if it's like cherry and gets darker with age? This Bloodwood was very burnt orange, still beautiful.
 
Thank you.

We have not, I was expecting this to be more red, given its name. I think it's still a beautiful color and grain.

I'll have to see if we can get our hands on some Redheart.
Bloodwood should be pure red and it is but it depends where it was harvested. Also is it from South America. There is bloodwood that also is called Satine and is more brownish than true bloodwood. I have boards that are deep red and true bloodwood. But whenever I ordered turning stock bloodwood they sent Satine which is not even close to red. Redheart has streaks of brown through it and over time will turn brown just as Padauk does but that is more orange red. Redheart also known as Chakte Kok comes from Souther Mexico and again when harvested and where play a role.

Here is a bloodwood and maple pen and it is as red as the day I turned it.

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Here is an example of Redheart and it too has stayed this color but see very little direct sunlight.

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We purchased the Bloodwood from the local lumber supplier, I'm not sure where it may have been harvested, but clearly doesn't look anything like yours. The grain does look the same to me though. Hmmm?
 
We purchased the Bloodwood from the local lumber supplier, I'm not sure where it may have been harvested, but clearly doesn't look anything like yours. The grain does look the same to me though. Hmmm?
I can show you true bloodwood boards that are a deep red and wil always stay that way. Plus bloodwood is a hard heavy dense wood. Man when cutting and sanding that stuff you better have a good vac system because that red will stain and get all over the place. Do not ask how I know. Someone told me. ;)
 
I can show you true bloodwood boards that are a deep red and wil always stay that way. Plus bloodwood is a hard heavy dense wood. Man when cutting and sanding that stuff you better have a good vac system because that red will stain and get all over the place. Do not ask how I know. Someone told me. ;)
The end grain where it was parted off and subjected to heat is more red and closer to the red that others are showing. The grain is the same and it was hard. According to the wood data base "the heartwood is bright vivid red that can darken to dark brownish red over time."
 

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Bloodwood should be pure red and it is but it depends where it was harvested. Also is it from South America. There is bloodwood that also is called Satine and is more brownish than true bloodwood. I have boards that are deep red and true bloodwood. But whenever I ordered turning stock bloodwood they sent Satine which is not even close to red. Redheart has streaks of brown through it and over time will turn brown just as Padauk does but that is more orange red. Redheart also known as Chakte Kok comes from Souther Mexico and again when harvested and where play a role.

Here is a bloodwood and maple pen and it is as red as the day I turned it.

View attachment 363635


Here is an example of Redheart and it too has stayed this color but see very little direct sunlight.

View attachment 363641
Beautiful segmenting.

Is this your scroll saw work? That is incredible and beautiful wood?
 
Beautiful segmenting.

Is this your scroll saw work? That is incredible and beautiful wood?
Yes it is. Scrolling is my first and long time passion and hobby. That piece is done with Redheart and red oak and the overlay is bright brass. There is red stain glass within the steps behind the fret work. All cut on a scrollsaw. Thanks for the kind words.
 
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.

However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.

I have a bloodwood board I bought from Cook last year or maybe 2 years ago. More brownish red than a true red.

Reminds me a bit of how purpleheart browns after a while. Still, a beautiful wood.

I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
 
I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
I got started with pen turning while living in Japan, and had access to quite a bit of exotic woods - mostly at a chain hobby store called Tokyu-Hands. LOTS of exotics there. Plus I had access to some of my American woods. Technically I was not supposed to bring any over, but they were planned 4 sides and 7 ft long (fit in my crate) and I listed them as unfinished book shelves. It sure was nice. In the Mid-South, Memphis - Jackson MS, it is hard to find exotics and non-southern woods. I get my exotics when I go to visit my daughter in Missouri, or other daughter in Dallas.
 
Yes it is. Scrolling is my first and long time passion and hobby. That piece is done with Redheart and red oak and the overlay is bright brass. There is red stain glass within the steps behind the fret work. All cut on a scrollsaw. Thanks for the kind words.
I am in awe of that piece and the patience it must have taken, it's stunning.
 
I have a bloodwood board I bought from Cook last year or maybe 2 years ago. More brownish red than a true red.

Reminds me a bit of how purpleheart browns after a while. Still, a beautiful wood.

I always feel rather spoiled having access to all of these exotics when a generation or two ago only saw access to domestics, and often only regional ones at that.
That's what the end grain looks like after parting a more brownish red than the body, it looks a bit orange to my eye.

We don't have great access here to exotics, but we can get a limited selection. Will have to pick some up here and there when we travel etc. + order.
 
I still have a bloodwood board about 3 ft long, 8 inches wide and 3/4" thick that is really slightly maroonish Red in color, and no hint of orange at all; you might say it has a deep red color. That board was purchased back in 2008 when it was 6 ft long. I have used about 3 ft of that in that 15 year, but have a couple of projects coming up in which I will need it. Very beautiful when contrasted against a white white holly. When compared to red heart, it makes the redheart look a little washed out.

However, in today's world, even going back the last 7 to 8 years, I have noticed that most bloodwood board or blanks generally look more orangish instead of deep red.

I have bought bloodwood from OP Hardwoods in Springfield (just west of Grizzly) and it has been a deep red. Very nice looking.
 
I have bought bloodwood from OP Hardwoods in Springfield (just west of Grizzly) and it has been a deep red. Very nice looking.
I have been there a couple of times. I couldn't remember the name off hand, until you named it. I'll be visiting there before Christmas when I go to visit my daughter in Ozark.
 
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