Trying Gluboost on Alumilite

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I use CA on all. Started as a way to use-up too much purchased CA. I think it adds shine depth, easier to restore the shine, and protects the underlying material. The only issue I have is when I use CA on Acrylester - the barrels keep cracking during the assembly. I don't know if the heat during the cure does something to the Acrylester. Nice job Michele!
 
I use CA on all. Started as a way to use-up too much purchased CA. I think it adds shine depth, easier to restore the shine, and protects the underlying material. The only issue I have is when I use CA on Acrylester - the barrels keep cracking during the assembly. I don't know if the heat during the cure does something to the Acrylester. Nice job Michele!
Thank you. šŸ˜ƒ
 
Time for me to get on board. So, did you MicroMesh or sand to a certain grit before applying and then re-MicroMesh? What procedure did you you use? - Thanks, Dave
Dave,

Who knows if my way is the right way, but I used wet/dry paper 400 - 1000. I did this because of the black and the way the micro scratches show in an attempt to make them less visible. Then I applied 4/5 layers of the Gluboost thin Fill and Finish with the lathe turning very slowly using shop towel. This is per John U's instructions) Then I Micro Meshed through all the grits and applied plastic polish, cause that's my process after glue or Micro Mesh.
 
Time for me to get on board. So, did you MicroMesh or sand to a certain grit before applying and then re-MicroMesh? What procedure did you you use? - Thanks, Dave
I usually go about half-way through the MicroMesh on the bare Alumilite, then 2 coats each of orange & blue GluBoost, then all the way through the MicroMesh, then Novus 1-2-3. Works for me, your mileage may vary. (Read the prospectus carefully before you invest or send money. Past performance is not a guarantee of future success. All other required disclaimers!!)

I will say...when i try to find a new process, I use the turning to practice the finish. If i take a 3/4" blank to round, i can usually get 3 or 4 finishing sequences applied and turned off before i get to final dimensions (depending on the hardware/tube diameter). Only cost to experiment that way is time. On larger stuff, like bowls & peppermills, it's a way to practice finishing cuts and/or new grinds.
 
I do this as well. I find it takes and keeps a shine better and, as Tony said, it adds depth.

I will say...when i try to find a new process, I use the turning to practice the finish. If i take a 3/4" blank to round, i can usually get 3 or 4 finishing sequences applied and turned off before i get to final dimensions (depending on the hardware/tube diameter). Only cost to experiment that way is time. On larger stuff, like bowls & peppermills, it's a way to practice finishing cuts and/or new grinds.
Yes. This part. Practice, practice, practice... and I still mess some up. Always learning and sometimes getting regrettable reminders on lessons I learned and forgot.
 
Dave,

Who knows if my way is the right way, but I used wet/dry paper 400 - 1000. I did this because of the black and the way the micro scratches show in an attempt to make them less visible. Then I applied 4/5 layers of the Gluboost thin Fill and Finish with the lathe turning very slowly using shop towel. This is per John U's instructions) Then I Micro Meshed through all the grits and applied plastic polish, cause that's my process after glue or Micro Mesh.
I'd be real curious to see what you think of Zona paper, if you give it a try.

Also, do you buff, or just sand? I've been making pens for about two years now. Didn't buff much at all till this year, then this summer REALLY put some effort into it. I've done various kinds of polish in the past (heck, I have so many different kinds of polish stocked up now, and it will probably never be used). Polish helps improve the shine, but it doesn't really get rid of all the scratches (even ultra fine ones). Buffing, on the other hand, seems to be THE way to get a sublime, perfect, scratch-free (at least those that are visible to the naked eye) finish, every time.
 
I'd be real curious to see what you think of Zona paper, if you give it a try.

Also, do you buff, or just sand? I've been making pens for about two years now. Didn't buff much at all till this year, then this summer REALLY put some effort into it. I've done various kinds of polish in the past (heck, I have so many different kinds of polish stocked up now, and it will probably never be used). Polish helps improve the shine, but it doesn't really get rid of all the scratches (even ultra fine ones). Buffing, on the other hand, seems to be THE way to get a sublime, perfect, scratch-free (at least those that are visible to the naked eye) finish, every time.
I'm looking forward to trying the Zona paper. I don't own buffing wheels yet, but they are on the list. So, for now all I can do is sand/polish.
 
I second this. It's all I use now and I'm happy with the results, though I also really need to improve my buffing skills, too.
I have buffing wheels on the list. I have no idea how to really properly use them, but think they will help get those pesky micro scratches out.
 
I have buffing wheels on the list. I have no idea how to really properly use them, but think they will help get those pesky micro scratches out.
I can try to post some info on how I've been using them. Not too long ago, someone shared a video of a guy who created a little pen buffing tool that makes it easier. I turned one of those, and its made buffing pretty much a breeze. There isn't all that much to it, basically hold and rotate the finished blank against the wheel with a moderate amount of pressure, and buff until you are satisfied. There is some technique, and you'll get a feel for it once you start doing it, and over time you'll get better and better. Overall, though, its primarily about buffing against teh scratches (so if you sand with the lathe on, then you'll have radial scratches, so you want to hold the blank such that the length of the blank is in line with the wheel, and you'll clear out those remnant sanding scratches in a jiffy). Keep the blank moving, rotate it, adjust the angle a bit here and there, keep it moving, and you;ll end up with a brilliantly crystal clear shine in the end.

I try to use three wheels: one loaded with WD (white diamond), a white bar rouge, the next loaded with blue rouge (ultra fine finishing rouge), the final an unloaded (clean, no compound) for cleanup and final shine. Buff with the WD a bit, then the blue, then clean it off and your good to go. This little tool (I'll get some pics tomorrow) is super handy, and makes it so much safer and easier to buff (effectively eliminates the risk of the blank getting ripped out of your hands by the wheel when you catch the top edge, which is all but guarantee to be a blank ender!) For your kitless pen designs, you might need to think about the exact design of how you might want to turn such a tool, but its an easy turn. I just bought a cheap $2 dowel at home depot and made it out of that.
 
I can try to post some info on how I've been using them. Not too long ago, someone shared a video of a guy who created a little pen buffing tool that makes it easier. I turned one of those, and its made buffing pretty much a breeze. There isn't all that much to it, basically hold and rotate the finished blank against the wheel with a moderate amount of pressure, and buff until you are satisfied. There is some technique, and you'll get a feel for it once you start doing it, and over time you'll get better and better. Overall, though, its primarily about buffing against teh scratches (so if you sand with the lathe on, then you'll have radial scratches, so you want to hold the blank such that the length of the blank is in line with the wheel, and you'll clear out those remnant sanding scratches in a jiffy). Keep the blank moving, rotate it, adjust the angle a bit here and there, keep it moving, and you;ll end up with a brilliantly crystal clear shine in the end.

I try to use three wheels: one loaded with WD (white diamond), a white bar rouge, the next loaded with blue rouge (ultra fine finishing rouge), the final an unloaded (clean, no compound) for cleanup and final shine. Buff with the WD a bit, then the blue, then clean it off and your good to go. This little tool (I'll get some pics tomorrow) is super handy, and makes it so much safer and easier to buff (effectively eliminates the risk of the blank getting ripped out of your hands by the wheel when you catch the top edge, which is all but guarantee to be a blank ender!) For your kitless pen designs, you might need to think about the exact design of how you might want to turn such a tool, but its an easy turn. I just bought a cheap $2 dowel at home depot and made it out of that.
Thank you, I had an idea it was kind of that way. I'm looking forward to getting buffing wheels in the near future and this information is helpful.
 
Wayne (of the IAP) kindly uploaded my submission on a buffing system (4 increasing finer compounds). Here it is in the attachment/instructions Buffer.jpg as well as a pic I took this morning using original wheels. I would apologize for the sloppy work area, but all my work areas are this sloppy. :)
 

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Wayne (of the IAP) kindly uploaded my submission on a buffing system (4 increasing finer compounds). Here it is in the attachment/instructions View attachment 362476 as well as a pic I took this morning using original wheels. I would apologize for the sloppy work area, but all my work areas are this sloppy. :)
Looks like a shop that gets some use, real life.

I've had some idea of how it's done, but no real life experience and it's good to have instructions and have a clue before i attempt to buff my first piece.

Thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to bump a buffing system up on my list, for the life of me I can't get black to look the way I want it to.
 
Looks like a shop that gets some use, real life.

I've had some idea of how it's done, but no real life experience and it's good to have instructions and have a clue before i attempt to buff my first piece.

Thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to bump a buffing system up on my list, for the life of me I can't get black to look the way I want it to.
I had a lot of help from a 10x loupe especially with dark colors.
 
I can try to post some info on how I've been using them. Not too long ago, someone shared a video of a guy who created a little pen buffing tool that makes it easier. I turned one of those, and its made buffing pretty much a breeze. There isn't all that much to it, basically hold and rotate the finished blank against the wheel with a moderate amount of pressure, and buff until you are satisfied. There is some technique, and you'll get a feel for it once you start doing it, and over time you'll get better and better. Overall, though, its primarily about buffing against teh scratches (so if you sand with the lathe on, then you'll have radial scratches, so you want to hold the blank such that the length of the blank is in line with the wheel, and you'll clear out those remnant sanding scratches in a jiffy). Keep the blank moving, rotate it, adjust the angle a bit here and there, keep it moving, and you;ll end up with a brilliantly crystal clear shine in the end.

I try to use three wheels: one loaded with WD (white diamond), a white bar rouge, the next loaded with blue rouge (ultra fine finishing rouge), the final an unloaded (clean, no compound) for cleanup and final shine. Buff with the WD a bit, then the blue, then clean it off and your good to go. This little tool (I'll get some pics tomorrow) is super handy, and makes it so much safer and easier to buff (effectively eliminates the risk of the blank getting ripped out of your hands by the wheel when you catch the top edge, which is all but guarantee to be a blank ender!) For your kitless pen designs, you might need to think about the exact design of how you might want to turn such a tool, but its an easy turn. I just bought a cheap $2 dowel at home depot and made it out of that.
Looking forward to the picture
 
Oops, forgot to get you guys those pictures. Here are a few. This is just a quick rough turned tool. I intend to turn one that is a bit nicer, with a bit longer "needle" (and maybe one with support for even smaller tubes...this one won't do a 7mm tube). Anyway, makes it a lot easier to hold the blank against the wheel, turn it around, really get good coverage and fully buff out any scratches. FWIW, this is not my idea...got it from a video someone linked...oh, maybe a moth ago?

With this tool, I tend to buff at the top of the wheel. Before, when using my hands, I would buff at the bottom of the wheel, and really had to try hard to avoid catching the top edge of the blank. If the top edge catches while hand holding, its pretty easy for it to just get yanked out of your hands, which is usually devastating to the blank (it'll at least destroy the finish, even a CA one, if not the entire blank). With the tool, buffing a the top of the wheel, the blank is right in front of your eyes, and its easier to check it and see how its progressing. Also, catching (or even riding) the top edge doesn't matter much...the blank AINT goin ANYWHERE.

The tool I've turned here is ok, but its a bit short. I need a longer handle (say 10" rather than about 8" for this one), and better ergonomics, so I can get a good grip with one hand on the bottom part, and still be able to use the other to twist it around for good buffing coverage of the blank. I think a longer "needle" at the top (the part that the blank tube slips over) needs to be a bit longer as well, for some longer blanks (i.e. longwood, etc.) I intend to finish the next one with some wipe on poly for a bit better durability and longevity as well. Maybe paint the grooves as well, make it look a bit nicer. ;)

Anyway, it works really well. Its made buffing much easier and a lot faster than when I was hand holding the blanks. Also saving my fingers from all the buffing compound.

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