Inlace Acrylester

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JamesC

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94
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Dallas Texas
I like the look of the Inlace material but it is a little difficult to work with. It is too brittle to cut a thread. I have been experimenting with different insert materials, and am having the best luck with Ebonite. Acrylic Acetate is ok but I think it gets a little warm and may expand when drilling and threading. This is a rollerball, having trouble getting the JOWO Nibs. Schmidt 888 ceramic roller. Triple start 13mm, removable with 1 1/2 turns. It is postable.
Jim
 

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I use acrylic acetate for sleeves in wooden barrels and have not experienced any heat or expansion issues.

Very nice pen. Thanks for sharing.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
its_virgil said:
I use acrylic acetate for sleeves in wooden barrels and have not experienced any heat or expansion issues.

Very nice pen. Thanks for sharing.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...
The reason I ask about the acrylic is the section on a rollerball is very narrow at the tip and the Inlace will crack at that location if you don't go very slowly. May just be me but I had to make three until I got it right
 
James, rather colorful blank. My complements on the build!
Suggestion: A lighter color for the background to make the pen stand out more.
 
JamesC said:
I like the look of the Inlace material but it is a little difficult to work with. It is too brittle to cut a thread. I have been experimenting with different insert materials, and am having the best luck with Ebonite. Acrylic Acetate is ok but I think it gets a little warm and may expand when drilling and threading. This is a rollerball, having trouble getting the JOWO Nibs. Schmidt 888 ceramic roller. Triple start 13mm, removable with 1 1/2 turns. It is postable.
Jim
Click to expand...
I think ebonite is perfect for this use. I have and do use acrylic for sleeves but after this happened (not sure how it happened, guess is it was capped and lateral pressure was applied to the joint) I make sure the sleeve walls are as thick as possible. Acrylic is brittle compared to ebonite and the Japanese is not too pricey. I don't use Japanese for other parts though as the German is superior.
A132AE1E-6CEB-4FE6-928D-11CE3CD8BF31.jpeg
84F1D6DB-B573-4BE6-8E43-E71FFDE49645.jpeg
 
That is exactly the problem I have experienced on there separate occasions. My only explanation is heat related. I epoxy the sleeves in place rather than ca and allow a minimum of 24 hours to cure.
 
JamesC said:
That is exactly the problem I have experienced on there separate occasions. My only explanation is heat related. I epoxy the sleeves in place rather than ca and allow a minimum of 24 hours to cure.
Click to expand...
Nothing to do with heat on this one, the pen was complete. Glued in with epoxy. The acrylic broke at the edge of the wood. It was thin there for sure about 1mm. From now on I will shoot for 2mm when forced to use acrylic for this application. Otherwise I like acrylic. Really prefer ebonite for threading.
 
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