Playing with the Sprits

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Kcimdrib

Kcimdrib

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I have been playing with Sprit Stains these are my first attempts. And its not as easy as I thought it maybe. I now realise that you have to sand very carefully and mixing colours needs careful consideration. I have used Cherry and Ash for my first attempt and finished wit CA.
I would appreciate your comments and if you have any tips I would be grateful.
The kits are a cheap Slimline.
Look forward to hearing from anyone who can give me a few pointers,
 

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I do not like it. Leave wood its natural color. No need to stain wood for a pen unless you are dying to get a better color. Making brown look darker on a pen does nothing for me. Just my opinion. There are so oooooooooooooo many woods out there that are natural in color. You are talking a 3/4' blank.
 
jttheclockman said:
I do not like it. Leave wood its natural color. No need to stain wood for a pen unless you are dying to get a better color. Making brown look darker on a pen does nothing for me. Just my opinion. There are so oooooooooooooo many woods out there that are natural in color. You are talking a 3/4' blank.
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Thank you for your comments and I partially agree. I did say it was an experiment How do you find out if you don't try.
 
Kcimdrib said:
Thank you for your comments and I partially agree. I did say it was an experiment How do you find out if you don't try.
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Absolutely. You did ask for comments and opinions so I posted mine. I maybe alone on this but if you like the look then continue and maybe even try more combos. But look at the ends of the blank and this comes with sanding grit and sanding too much in one area and not enough on the ends. Then the stain gets absorbed differently. But to me the wood is just too plain Jane and not a fan of plain wood on a pen blank. Good luck.
 
jttheclockman said:
Absolutely. You did ask for comments and opinions so I posted mine. I maybe alone on this but if you like the look then continue and maybe even try more combos. But look at the ends of the blank and this comes with sanding grit and sanding too much in one area and not enough on the ends. Then the stain gets absorbed differently. But to me the wood is just too plain Jane and not a fan of plain wood on a pen blank. Good luck.
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Thank you I now realise sanding is critical. I will give it another go before I give in not sure that CA finish is such a good idea either. Think I will try wax.
 
Michael - Continue your creative quest - some woods are bland, and cry for a little color boost - other woods (eg. cocobolo) are born magnificently variegated.

Have fun, and take some notes along the way.

- Bob
 
Bob in SF said:
Michael - Continue your creative quest - some woods are bland, and cry for a little color boost - other woods (eg. cocobolo) are born magnificently variegated.

Have fun, and take some notes along the way.

- Bob
Bob in SF said:
Michael - Continue your creative quest - some woods are bland, and cry for a little color boost - other woods (eg. cocobolo) are born magnificently variegated.

Have fun, and take some notes along the way.

- Bob
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Thank you Bob I will continue my pursuit to improve. The IAP brings together like minded individuals all willing to pass on advice and when I look at people's achievements I am amazed and encouraged to keep trying.
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Michael

although I am not a great fan, it sometimes can work spectacularly well.

The Ash one I can see potential in as it accentuates the contrast due to the open grain. The Cherry one just doesn't work at all for me ( sorry but a personal view) . I have seen Jimmy Clewes and Mick Hanbury use spirit stains then methylated spirit to make them pop on bowls and platters . This is AFTER all the sanding etc has been done, otherwise, as you have found, you differentially sand out the colours. There is no good reason ,I can think of , why this would not work on pens. They finished afterwards with acrylic lacquer to seal the colours in. Do not use cellulose lacquer or you might get a shock.

I too have bought some stains to try out but got some lovely australian Burrs to try out first.
 
howsitwork said:
Michael

although I am not a great fan, it sometimes can work spectacularly well.

The Ash one I can see potential in as it accentuates the contrast due to the open grain. The Cherry one just doesn't work at all for me ( sorry but a personal view) . I have seen Jimmy Clewes and Mick Hanbury use spirit stains then methylated spirit to make them pop on bowls and platters . This is AFTER all the sanding etc has been done, otherwise, as you have found, you differentially sand out the colours. There is no good reason ,I can think of , why this would not work on pens. They finished afterwards with acrylic lacquer to seal the colours in. Do not use cellulose lacquer or you might get a shock.

I too have bought some stains to try out but got some lovely australian Burrs to try out first.
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I have used it myself on bowls quite successfully but this is my first attempt on pens. I will continue to experiment. Thanks for your encouragement.
Fills the time during Lockdown.
 
What was your sanding process before staining? Looks like you may have used to fine a grit and closed up the grain
When staining wood it usually works best to not go beyond 220.

How did you apply the stain? Did you go with the grain when applying? Fast drying dye stains can be tricky when hand applying, cherry is one of the woods prone to being blotchy with this method

Keep on experimenting..
 
Thanks for your comments I sanded down to 600 and applied the stain with a pad and the Lathe stationary running along the grain.
I have 4 colours Red, Blue, Yellow and Black. I started with Blue and followed Red then Yellow till I got the effect that looked OK.
Followed with CA.
I will try again because I wasn't happy with the result but invited comments.
I think just one coiur would be best because so many causes the effect to become muddy less maybe more effective.
 
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I have had good luck using watercolors on birch and plain maple. These are somewhat boring and can benefit from a little pop. The colors are much richer but less transparent.
 
I have dabbled just a bit in the past with stains... I was very pleased with the result. I actually enjoy open grain timbers, which many do not. To each his own! They suck up the stain and when the pen is turned and finished (WOP for me typically), the open grains are very appealing. Does it rival Amboyna or Thuya Burl... No, but I appreciate what the blank has to offer.

Please continue your efforts. You will be well rewarded. ;)
 
mark james said:
I have dabbled just a bit in the past with stains... I was very pleased with the result. I actually enjoy open grain timbers, which many do not. To each his own! They suck up the stain and when the pen is turned and finished (WOP for me typically), the open grains are very appealing. Does it rival Amboyna or Thuya Burl... No, but I appreciate what the blank has to offer.

Please continue your efforts. You will be well rewarded. ;)
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Thank you for you encouragement I will carry on experimenting. I agree open grain wood seems best. I do not know what WOP means could you explain please.
 
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