Dale Lynch
Member
Looking for honest critique of my work. Two yrs in a row my submissions have circled the drain during the bash.Is it my pictures or my workmanship?Thank you for your feedback and thanks for looking.
This is a tough one because of the scarcity of members doing them so his competition level is not there and would not be fair to him or others that enter. Just like I do not think it is fair to him entering a segmenting competition because in everyone's minds wood and acrylics and metals are the medium used to do segmenting. I do not want to pick apart contests because I am done with them here but to stick with the category thing. What is going to happen when all these 3D printers start showing up and you have all these so called segmented Gisi designed pens entered the segmenting contest. To me in my mind they fall in the same category as laser cut pens and should not be allowed. I believe these are questions that will need to be answered as we move forward and try to keep the Bash contests alive. Or just have one big contest and include all kinds of medium and methods and let the chips fall where they may. Something like we did when there was the contest for "The Pen World" magazine. Not my call but some fodder to think about in the future.Amazing! You have Patience beyond belief - to plan and wrap a pen like that.
John, I was thinking of a separate category for threaded pens called "Free Style", OR if enough people did this, "Threads."
3'd printed materials are already not allowed for the past two years.This is a tough one because of the scarcity of members doing them so his competition level is not there and would not be fair to him or others that enter. Just like I do not think it is fair to him entering a segmenting competition because in everyone's minds wood and acrylics and metals are the medium used to do segmenting. I do not want to pick apart contests because I am done with them here but to stick with the category thing. What is going to happen when all these 3D printers start showing up and you have all these so called segmented Gisi designed pens entered the segmenting contest. To me in my mind they fall in the same category as laser cut pens and should not be allowed. I believe these are questions that will need to be answered as we move forward and try to keep the Bash contests alive. Or just have one big contest and include all kinds of medium and methods and let the chips fall where they may. Something like we did when there was the contest for "The Pen World" magazine. Not my call but some fodder to think about in the future.
I took what you guys siad about pictures and tried again.I had a cardboard box,lined the back bottom and sides with computer paper.Laid the pen by itself against the back and took a pic with auto settings.Camera is a fujifilm J38.I also was able to zoom in on a small area of each pen.I hope this makes the details easier to see.Couldn't take a new pic of the other one, recipient already has it.Adding my 2 cents to the comments above. Please don't take them harshly, I know that my tone for commenting is perceived as"too direct" sometimes but they are in a friendly tone.
The artistry is certainly there, but pens are meant to be touched and handled. I've had plenty of pens in my hands made with wood and various other material, so I understand how they feel. It is harder for me to connect to your pen, never held one, never looked closely or examined one. So yes, lack of familiarity with the technique and the end product makes it harder to appreciate your pens.
I believe some of these issues could be fixed by seriously improving the pictures. From the ones you submitted I see no details in the threading, I don't see the intricacy of the work. Close-up details would be a good start. Lighting is pretty bad, generating highlights and shadows that are very distracting. The background is not helping either, can't decide if it's a dirty rag or some kind of fleece material. And the severed hand that holds the pen is distracting as well. See here, my comments go not to your entry itself, yet your pen should be the center of attention. I'm not sure what would be the way to a fix, maybe find a photographer friend that has a good macro lens. This would be especially useful if at some point you wanted to sell your awesome creations.
Very informative to see details, including one of these in future posts really helps to bring out the complexity of your work. The camera seems to be was is commonly referred to as a "point and shoot" camera, which often is designed for general photo taking and harder to control for situations like the pictures you are trying to take. Where is the light coming from? Can you move it? I think next you should try to take pictures that avoid direct light reflection (those bright light streaks in the middle of the pen), either by moving the light or by moving the camera slightly (up or down or sideways), or adding a light diffuser to your light source (like a translucent piece of cloth or plastic).I took what you guys siad about pictures and tried again.I had a cardboard box,lined the back bottom and sides with computer paper.Laid the pen by itself against the back and took a pic with auto settings.Camera is a fujifilm J38.I also was able to zoom in on a small area of each pen.I hope this makes the details easier to see.Couldn't take a new pic of the other one, recipient already has it.
Fred,Very informative to see details, including one of these in future posts really helps to bring out the complexity of your work. The camera seems to be was is commonly referred to as a "point and shoot" camera, which often is designed for general photo taking and harder to control for situations like the pictures you are trying to take. Where is the light coming from? Can you move it? I think next you should try to take pictures that avoid direct light reflection (those bright light streaks in the middle of the pen), either by moving the light or by moving the camera slightly (up or down or sideways), or adding a light diffuser to your light source (like a translucent piece of cloth or plastic).
This is good. I have not been following rules or anything like that. Just was thinking out loud.
I have a suggestion for you if you want to give it a try. When you do your next thread tying blank, take photos of the operation and the set up and give us a description of what it takes. How many rolls of thread do you have to spin at one time and how you have to cross and lap over and the number sequences it takes to make these. Show us a cut sheet of thread counts and things like that. Not sure if you are working off your own designs or someone elses because I know there are books on this. I think people would be stunned at what it takes to spin one of these. Give us a sample of different threads used. In other words educate us. I know there are a couple more people here who do this and hopefully they will chime in and we can have that thread as a search point for the future. Just make it a whole separate thread and do not put in the middle of this one or any other. One thing I will disagree with is the seeing of the threads. The mark of a well tied blank is if the threads are tight and no gaps. They blend together as one. The different color transitions will give it away.Thank you for the feedback Fred, Yes the backround is a fleece throw.Gonna start putting more effort into picture taking,I don't understand any of the terminology so it'll be tough but I will work on it.I'll will include a closeup pic in the future so the individual threads can be seen.Using size A thread wrapped tight looks like it was painted on with no magnification, maybe thats why it hard to distingwish,I have used larger diameter thread when I first started doing this but it looks like rope in comparison.Gonna work on the photography for the future
Huge difference. Stay with that. See you already improved and your so called question or rant turned into a positive.I took what you guys siad about pictures and tried again.I had a cardboard box,lined the back bottom and sides with computer paper.Laid the pen by itself against the back and took a pic with auto settings.Camera is a fujifilm J38.I also was able to zoom in on a small area of each pen.I hope this makes the details easier to see.Couldn't take a new pic of the other one, recipient already has it.
The light is coming from the camera flash.I'll do some practicing with holding the camera at different angles as well as moving the pens around and see if I can get a better angle to avoid reflecting the flash.Very informative to see details, including one of these in future posts really helps to bring out the complexity of your work. The camera seems to be was is commonly referred to as a "point and shoot" camera, which often is designed for general photo taking and harder to control for situations like the pictures you are trying to take. Where is the light coming from? Can you move it? I think next you should try to take pictures that avoid direct light reflection (those bright light streaks in the middle of the pen), either by moving the light or by moving the camera slightly (up or down or sideways), or adding a light diffuser to your light source (like a translucent piece of cloth or plastic).
Many of the patterns I've done are modified versions of patterns created on computer by Adamir Romano. Regularly have to adjust thread count and spacing to get it to fit the tube dimentions. It will be quite the undertaking and possibly boring to read because the elaborate patterns don't look like anything until they're 95% done.I will try though to make it understandable as I can with my 6th grade education.I have a suggestion for you if you want to give it a try. When you do your next thread tying blank, take photos of the operation and the set up and give us a description of what it takes. How many rolls of thread do you have to spin at one time and how you have to cross and lap over and the number sequences it takes to make these. Show us a cut sheet of thread counts and things like that. Not sure if you are working off your own designs or someone elses because I know there are books on this. I think people would be stunned at what it takes to spin one of these. Give us a sample of different threads used. In other words educate us. I know there are a couple more people here who do this and hopefully they will chime in and we can have that thread as a search point for the future. Just make it a whole separate thread and do not put in the middle of this one or any other. One thing I will disagree with is the seeing of the threads. The mark of a well tied blank is if the threads are tight and no gaps. They blend together as one. The different color transitions will give it away.
As far as photography goes there are a ton of people here that need to take a class including myself when it comes to photography things can make or break the look of your pen. This is why I am so ADAMIT about people holding their pens in their grubby awful hands. If I want to see your hands we would have a section for that. I pass right by those photos and will not comment unless that pen is so outstanding it needs to be recognized. If you took the time to make the pen why can you not lay it down on anything to shoot the photo. A huge Petpeeve of mine. As far as yours goes a little tweaking here and there and clean up somethings and you will be fine. As far as the prop, many people use those along with Atlas holding pens and things like that. That is a preference thing. I try not to use something to distract from the pen unless going for an artsy photo shot.
Again the placement is something you may not have any control over and I know because I have been there too. Take the experience and learn from it and keep trying. You can not win it if you are not in it as they say in the lottery business.
Thanks, the feedback I recieved in this thread is very helpfull. I regret being a whiney poopy pants about it instead of asking like an adult.Huge difference. Stay with that. See you already improved and your so called question or rant turned into a positive.