My method of photo'ing a pen

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SDB777

SDB777

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
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Location
Cabot, Arkansas USA
While there are several methods I've tried, I have only found one way to take a photo that most truely looks like the pen as I see it. So, let's get started.


First thing you'll need is a good, solid tripod. Not one of those cheap Wal-Mart things, but something rock solid! Can't stress this enough....solid!!! But the good thing is, you don't need a super-wizz-bangin' camera. I've used anything from a 3.1M Kodak C330, 14.0M Kodak C1485IS, 10.0M Canon SX10IS, or even my 14.1M Sony a350 w/50mm f2.8 EX Macro lense....anything works as long as you can manipulate the EV setting. The camera needs to be set on a moderate f-stop. Something around f/8 to f/11 to get the proper depth of field.


Get the pen set. Don't move it!


What you need to do:

Camera set on tripod, focused on the centerband of the pen(everything should be well focused---if the pen is focused on the centerband and the nib/cap seem out of focus, move the tripod back and re-focus...this should increase the area that is focused-DOF), move the EV setting to 1-2/3 stop negative value...click(preferrably using the timer function to reduce camera shake). Now, adjust the EV setting to 0(zero) value....click. And lastly, adjust the EV setting to 1-2/3 stop positive value...click.
What you just did is to get a higher dynamic range of the pen being photo'd. How do you get the most from your efforts? First you'll need to download the photo's into your computer....then the hard part. Open a program called PhotoMatix Light, click Browse and select the three photo's you just took. The program will open back up with your three photo's and another photo that has the word Next under it...click it.
A few moments later a screen showing your pen with the three photo's blended together. At this point I use the icon on the top left of the screen saying Exposure Fusion....Process & Save(click), create a file name and your done!

At this point you could simply load the photo into whatever software you use to adjust sharpness, brightness, or whatever...and tweak it a little.(I normally crop and add text in Picasa, sometime I add a border in PhotoShop....) Load the photo into PhotoBucket, or whatever you use and share!!

SBTFP-nib-DIWB-001-2.jpg




Links for programs:
Photomatix software
Picasa
Photobucket

(Disclaimer: I have no monetary ties to any of the above links, I use them and like them. And just wanted to save you a few moments if your looking for them)




Scott (hope you find this helpful) B
 
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Thanks for the tip, My wife uses this for senic shots but I never thought of using it for pens. I will try it tonight.
Mike
 
You can also do the entire process in photoshop. It is an interesting technique that I have just started to play with.
Instead of using EV settings most of today's cameras will automatically take 3 frames at once bracketing the initial exposure.
 
True, PhotoShop can do this. But at a much higher cost. I've used that method, but was discouraged by the overly 'cooked' imagines....

EV = Exposure Value
This can also be changed by adjusting the shutter speed, but more movement of dials on the camera can cause troubles(you need to be sure the camera doesn't move).

Another example:
EV = 0
f/11
shutter speed = 1/125

to get the EV to change to EV -2(that's negative two) you need to change the shutter speed to 1/500
to get the EV to change to EV +2(that's positive two) you need to change the shutter speed to 1/30

Just be sure while your changing things, your doing it carefully and that the lighting doesn't change(if your outside). Also, be sure you do not adjust the f-stop(f/11 or whatever you have it set at)!


Yes, I use this processing method for 'scenic shots', but I was wondering about the pens....mostly the really dark wood that doesn't show well under typical photo'ing. So I tried it, and it looked really good....on everything!
The method is actually considered HDR Photography.


If anyone has any questions.....ask away!!!




Scott (trying to help is all) B
 
Great idea! My photo software has this feature for things like indoor shots where you can see the bright outside, but I never thought to use it on pens. I'll have to try it.

Heck, I already have 3 different exposures of most of my shots anyway, since I use auto-bracketing in hopes of finding the "best" exposure.
 
fernhills said:
Well how do you get glare out, looks like you have trees in your pen.
Click to expand...

That my friend is the biggest downfall of shooting outside. I've attempted to take the light tent outside to use the great effect from the sun, but it seems that the best plans are always overshadowed by a greater power....wind.
You could use PhotoShop, but there is always a downside to that. Long hours of staring at pixels and masking isn't what I'd call a fun day, but it can be done.

The easiest way to fix the problem would be to get the light tent set-up, buy a bunch of Daylight halogens/tubes and make a holder to keep them in a fixed position. If you have the room to do this(a spare bedroom/den/whatever) would be great, but I just don't have the room available to leave the set-up in place.(Although the more I think of it....)


Scott (a trip to HomeDepot might be in my future) B
 
azamiryou said:
Great idea! My photo software has this feature for things like indoor shots where you can see the bright outside, but I never thought to use it on pens. I'll have to try it.

Heck, I already have 3 different exposures of most of my shots anyway, since I use auto-bracketing in hopes of finding the "best" exposure.
Click to expand...


I've tried this with Auto-Bracketing, but ended up just going fully manual to get the wider range. The camera I have with AB on it only shoots -2/3, 0, +2/3 and can't be changed(go figure).


A little off topic(but it's my topic)....
If you leave your camera set in Auto, and use the AB feature...I bet the better exposure is the top(higher EV) against a white background. This happens due to the camera trying to find a 'neutral gray'.
To defeat the camera giving up just one good photo...
Set camera up on Auto, half-press the shutter and write down(or remember) the camera settings. Switch the camera to shutter(S) and setting the camera to a slower shutter to let more light in...probably two or three stops faster. (Instead of a shutter speed of 1/125, set it to 1/30 or 1/15 and try the AB feature at that setting!)




Scott (cameras are fun) B
 
SDB777 said:
fernhills said:
Well how do you get glare out, looks like you have trees in your pen.
Click to expand...

That my friend is the biggest downfall of shooting outside. I've attempted to take the light tent outside to use the great effect from the sun, but it seems that the best plans are always overshadowed by a greater power....wind.
You could use PhotoShop, but there is always a downside to that. Long hours of staring at pixels and masking isn't what I'd call a fun day, but it can be done.

The easiest way to fix the problem would be to get the light tent set-up, buy a bunch of Daylight halogens/tubes and make a holder to keep them in a fixed position. If you have the room to do this(a spare bedroom/den/whatever) would be great, but I just don't have the room available to leave the set-up in place.(Although the more I think of it....)


Scott (a trip to HomeDepot might be in my future) B
Click to expand...

One way to augment the bright sun light is to shoot on a cloudy or over cast day. On a cloudy day mother nature is brighter then the most brightest bulbs. If i want to shoot and it is sunny out and i don`t want to wait till the sun moves around, i get a sheet and make a tent by throwing the sheet over the picnic table umbrella. I have a photo box set up, so i don`t have to do that now. Good luck.
 
You discussed being able to do this in Photoshop. Please do share. I haven't heard of such a feature but I am rather new to this....

Thanks!!
 
PTownSubbie said:
You discussed being able to do this in Photoshop. Please do share. I haven't heard of such a feature but I am rather new to this....

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

PhotoShop Elements 8 is supposed to be able to do this(I use No#6-I really need to upgrade, but I'm super cheap). And I've been told that HDR is a standard feature in the newest version of Lightroom 3, and PhotoShop CS5....
I've seen the results from Lightroom3(friend has it loaded and running), but I didn't pay too much attention to his workflow. And I don't know anyone personally using CS5....can't help there.


I've tried to 'layer' the three photo's with different EV settings in PS Elements No#6, but the outcome was less then blah...it sucked!



If anyone knows the 'workflow' for LR3 or CS5 for doing HDR images....please share!!!





Scott (sorry I couldn't help more for this question) B
 
lazylathe said:
AWESOME!! thanks Scott!!

Will be using this to see if i can be a superstar like you!:biggrin:

Thanks for all the tips!

Andrew
Click to expand...



Superstar.......Holy Moses!! Not me!!!!!


Just trying to share something that could possibly help your photo's for websites or whatnot.... Some of the best light tent photo's I've seen still don't really compare to what you 'see' when you hold the pen(at least that's my experience)....



Scott (advise is always free) B
 
SDB777 said:
PhotoShop Elements 8 is supposed to be able to do this(I use No#6-I really need to upgrade, but I'm super cheap). And I've been told that HDR is a standard feature in the newest version of Lightroom 3, and PhotoShop CS5....
I've seen the results from Lightroom3(friend has it loaded and running), but I didn't pay too much attention to his workflow. And I don't know anyone personally using CS5....can't help there.


I've tried to 'layer' the three photo's with different EV settings in PS Elements No#6, but the outcome was less then blah...it sucked!



If anyone knows the 'workflow' for LR3 or CS5 for doing HDR images....please share!!!





Scott (sorry I couldn't help more for this question) B
Click to expand...

Just did a google search since you stated the technique. HDR is capable in Photoshop. Link: http://www.photoshopcafe.com/tutorials/HDR_ps/hdr-ps.htm

Now I need to give it a try!! Hopefully my shots come out as good as yours did!!

Thanks for the tip Scott!
 
I hope everyone that reads this gives it a 'shot'!!!

Not only will you learn a new, and simple tool to make your pens look like what they really look like. It'll give you a 'step-up' in the photos on your website, Esty, eBay or whatever over the competition!


PTownSubbie,
Sure would like to see your results when you get some?!?!?!?



Scott (and everyone else too) B
 
My first attempt!

Well this is my first attemp at using your method.
Came out a lot better than my normal pics!!

The Gemstone shop pencil is done using Photomatix and Irfanview.
I had to try it out tonight, so turned it up quick!

truestoneblueweb003_1_2_fuseda.jpg


The celtic knot pen was done using just Irfanview.

IMG_5377a.jpg


I can see the difference!!

Thanks a ton for the lesson Scott!!!

Andrew
 
Just found this site and watched the tutorials for using it...

http://www.hdrsoft.com/

It is designed specifically for hdr photography and can stand alone or be intregrated into photoshop. Not sure if the cheaper version will integrate into elements or not but that would be ok anyway.

I think I will have to own it :)
 
lazylathe said:
Well this is my first attemp at using your method.
Came out a lot better than my normal pics!!

The Gemstone shop pencil is done using Photomatix and Irfanview.
I had to try it out tonight, so turned it up quick!

truestoneblueweb003_1_2_fuseda.jpg


The celtic knot pen was done using just Irfanview.

IMG_5377a.jpg


I can see the difference!!

Thanks a ton for the lesson Scott!!!

Andrew
Click to expand...


I guess my eye is not trained enough to see a difference. Maybe you could put both photos side by side using a standard photo and this method and show us the difference. I would think something like you are experimenting with is worth the time on outdoor events but a single pen in the same light is not worth the effort in my opinion. Put it in one of those photo programs and adjust the shades of light or contrast that way. Just my opinion. Nice pens by the way.
 
Direct comparison

The first attachment is from a single exposure. I used software to adjust the highlight/midtone/shadow as best I can.

The second attachment is from 3 exposures (the middle one is the first attachment; the others are EV +/- 1.3), automatically generated by my HDR software with some manual optimization.

Comparing them, I find the HDR photo to be a slight improvement. The difference is most visible in the wood grain at the CB end of the cap, where more detail is visible in the HDR photo than the single exposure.

The other difference is that the HDR photo was faster to make due to more automation. My camera has an auto-bracketing function, and I can set the EV variation for it, and my software can do HDR with just a few clicks. Manually adjusting the HDR image to optimize it seemed easier; with the single exposure, it was finicky, and a change to improve one area tended to degrade another.

If my camera didn't have a lot of auto-bracket flexibility, or if I didn't have a tripod, I'd probably stick with the single-exposure method. But for me and my tools, HDR seems like it'll get me slightly better images with slightly less work.

Camera: Pentax Optio 555
Software: Corel PhotoImpact X3 (formerly Ulead PhotoImpact)
 

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Very cool Matthew!

Can definitely tell the difference, much better...and I'm glad it's something simple for ya!



Scott (grain is poppin') B
 
Thanks......going to give it a try......isn't PhotoMatix Light a pay for program? It says if you use it in the trial form, it will add a watermark to your photos. Am I missing something?
 
Last edited:
DKF said:
Thanks......going to give it a try......isn't PhotoMatix Light a pay for program? It says if you use it in the trial form, it will add a watermark to your photos. Am I missing something?
Click to expand...


Yes, unfortunately, it's not free unless you want to have a watermark on the final product that says "PhotoMatix" across the photo(about three times).


Scott (cheaper then CS5 though) B
 
SDB777 said:
While there are several methods I've tried, I have only found one way to take a photo that most truely looks like the pen as I see it. So, let's get started.


First thing you'll need is a good, solid tripod. Not one of those cheap Wal-Mart things, but something rock solid! Can't stress this enough....solid!!! But the good thing is, you don't need a super-wizz-bangin' camera. I've used anything from a 3.1M Kodak C330, 14.0M Kodak C1485IS, 10.0M Canon SX10IS, or even my 14.1M Sony a350 w/50mm f2.8 EX Macro lense....anything works as long as you can manipulate the EV setting. The camera needs to be set on a moderate f-stop. Something around f/8 to f/11 to get the proper depth of field.


Get the pen set. Don't move it!


What you need to do:

Camera set on tripod, focused on the centerband of the pen(everything should be well focused---if the pen is focused on the centerband and the nib/cap seem out of focus, move the tripod back and re-focus...this should increase the area that is focused-DOF), move the EV setting to 1-2/3 stop negative value...click(preferrably using the timer function to reduce camera shake). Now, adjust the EV setting to 0(zero) value....click. And lastly, adjust the EV setting to 1-2/3 stop positive value...click.
What you just did is to get a higher dynamic range of the pen being photo'd. How do you get the most from your efforts? First you'll need to download the photo's into your computer....then the hard part. Open a program called PhotoMatix Light, click Browse and select the three photo's you just took. The program will open back up with your three photo's and another photo that has the word Next under it...click it.
A few moments later a screen showing your pen with the three photo's blended together. At this point I use the icon on the top left of the screen saying Exposure Fusion....Process & Save(click), create a file name and your done!

At this point you could simply load the photo into whatever software you use to adjust sharpness, brightness, or whatever...and tweak it a little.(I normally crop and add text in Picasa, sometime I add a border in PhotoShop....) Load the photo into PhotoBucket, or whatever you use and share!!

SBTFP-nib-DIWB-001-2.jpg




Links for programs:
Photomatix software
Picasa
Photobucket

(Disclaimer: I have no monetary ties to any of the above links, I use them and like them. And just wanted to save you a few moments if your looking for them)




Scott (hope you find this helpful) B
Click to expand...

Hey Scott
What font did you use on this photo? THANKS for the heads up on Picasa. Great program
 
My issue is that when I try to upload pictures, I get a message that my file is too big. Is there a way to shrink it down?
I'm not an expert with this computin machine so instructions in English is what I need !!!
 
Santacraig said:
My issue is that when I try to upload pictures, I get a message that my file is too big. Is there a way to shrink it down?
I'm not an expert with this computin machine so instructions in English is what I need !!!
Click to expand...

Craig, Sure, PM me with your software program. Gimp is a good program and free to boot! :)
 
Last edited:
I use a free program that Curtis told me about called Fotosizer. The picture quality stays the same but the file size shrinks a lot.


Santacraig said:
My issue is that when I try to upload pictures, I get a message that my file is too big. Is there a way to shrink it down?
I'm not an expert with this computin machine so instructions in English is what I need !!!
Click to expand...
 
I use Picasa and Photoshop but I also have Image Re-sizer. Originally a part of Microsoft Power Toy add-ons, it is a free download for XP. It is also available now for Vista/Win7 .. just not from Microsoft.
http://www.vso-software.fr/products/image_resizer/
It is super simple to use .... just right click on the file and you get a drop down menu of sizes to choose from.
 
PS Elements 8

If any one is interested this is how to do it in PSE8
1. Open the 3 files
2. Highlight all 3 in the Project Bin
3. On the file menu select NEW - Photomerge Exposure
This then merges the 3 photos in to one, you can take control and do it manualy if you are feeling adventurous.
 
DavidSpavin said:
If any one is interested this is how to do it in PSE8
1. Open the 3 files
2. Highlight all 3 in the Project Bin
3. On the file menu select NEW - Photomerge Exposure
This then merges the 3 photos in to one, you can take control and do it manualy if you are feeling adventurous.
Click to expand...


Thanks for adding this. I knew it was possible to do this, but my cheap butt hasn't upgraded my photoshop software.

Wondering? Do you have a photo from the above process?



Scott (upgrades, they always get you on the upgrades) B
 
How about 4 photos. All of the same pen but with different backgrounds. Opinions on which works best would be appreciated.
 

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DavidSpavin said:
How about 4 photos. All of the same pen but with different backgrounds. Opinions on which works best would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Normally I'd say white background, but seeing how these open against a black background when clicked on...they all work.

The first one works best for my eyes. The silver parts of the pen blend in too much with the 2nd and 4th, and the 3rd has some sort of funny shimmer. Were these all taken in a light tent?



Scott (too early for much more thought) B
 
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