HF Paint Pot

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RHossack

RHossack

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
362
Location
Liberty Lake, WA, USA.
This has probably been answered a few times but I'm getting dizzy
reading all the articles on the HF pot and not seeing my question.

If I'm not going to be using vacuum but just pressure can the pot be used as is from HF without buying the local plumbing store out?
 
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Yes, just remove the dip tube and plug the hole or use it for the air inlet. Or use the parts that come with the tank and put a quick release for the air hose. I use the regulator on the air compressor to regulate the pressure and leave the hose attached until the casting is done. I also use the same quick connect for the vacuum and pressure. I'm not sure why all of the elaborate plumbing is being done...maybe so we can say that mine is bigger than yours.:D It seems that each new paint tank we see has more plumbing parts than the last one. Hey, we are guys! Right! Good luck with getting your tank ready.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by RHossack

This has probably been answered a few times but I'm getting dizzy
reading all the articles on the HF pot and not seeing my question.

If I'm not going to be using vacuum but just pressure can the pot be used as is from HF without buying the local plumbing store out?
Click to expand...
 
Couldn't you pull a vaccuum also with that same setup you described just by replacing the gauge that comes with the HF pot with a combo gauge that reads both pressure and vaccuum? I'm like you... I like to keep it as simple as possible.
 
Here is my simple pressure only pot with notes to show what I did. I add a valve at the inlet and use the regulator for the pot. I do not like to leave mine hooked to the compressor like Don does since when I first started I did it that way and had the seal blow. It caused the compressor to run all night long and about burned it up. Parts of the compressor were so hot that it melted some of the plastic.

20079512230_pot1.jpg
 
I use a guage that measures both. Here is a picture of my top. But, not the current combo guage.

20071225536_guage%20and%20quick%20release%20Small.jpg


Do a good turn daily!
Don


Originally posted by rhahnfl

Couldn't you pull a vaccuum also with that same setup you described just by replacing the gauge that comes with the HF pot with a combo gauge that reads both pressure and vaccuum? I'm like you... I like to keep it as simple as possible.
Click to expand...
 
Ron,
Just do a simple search on "pressure pot" and you will see lots of designs. FirefighterEMT did a nice simple one a few weeks ago. Others have as well.

Cant remember who did this one,
200712251225_jj%20tank.jpg



Or like this one,
200712251320_k%20tank.jpg



Do a search and you'll find pleanty.
Good luck and have fun.
 
Originally posted by MesquiteMan

Here is my simple pressure only pot with notes to show what I did. I add a valve at the inlet and use the regulator for the pot. I do not like to leave mine hooked to the compressor like Don does since when I first started I did it that way and had the seal blow. It caused the compressor to run all night long and about burned it up. Parts of the compressor were so hot that it melted some of the plastic.

20079512230_pot1.jpg
Click to expand...

Ok, dumb question time. What is the cutoff valve on the right hand side for? It appears that it's only cutting off an outlet in the fitting. If that's true couldn't you just plug the fitting? But there may be something I can't see in the picture. Or since I haven't cast yet, there may be something I don't understand.
 
The cutoff of the right side is to let the air out. For some reason the regulator will not allow the air to come back out the inlet with any velocity. It will leak out but very slowly! The other reason that I need the regulator on my pot is because I run a large compressor that is outside of the main shop and piped in. I use it for a lot of other things and need to have the pressure kept high and don't really feel like having to go out and reset it each time I use the pressure pot.
 
To be honest, you have no need for the regulator. I have an 80 gallon compressor and with 140 line psi I can not put more than 70psi into the tank wide open without regulators. I have the relief valve set for 65psi and the relief valve opens up and 70 is all it will push to. Drop the regulator, install the gauge on the "T" where th relief valve is. Now on the other port, add in a reducer bushing, a 1/4" elbow, a 1/4" valve and the air line nipple. Simple to do and very cheap. If you set you your vacuum pump like mine, all you need to do down the road is to buy a combo gague to replace the one that comes with the tank and set up the vac-pump with an air chuck and nipple. I added in two 90-degree elbows to keep it tight and to blow the air away from me out of the vac-pump.

tank-1.jpg


tank-2.jpg


tank-5.jpg


Very simple, litte weight and "hang over" and not too expensive all in all. There is no need to sepertae the PSI-inlet and the Vac-inlet in you buy a gauge desgined for what you are doing. Watch the gauge when you fill it and remove the hose when you are done and you have no use for a regulator, it's just one more thing to fail or leak.

Oh, and just to be fancy I had this fitting in my tool box that looks so nice inside the tank. It's just a compression fitting elbow, but the nut and sleeve looks so nice.
tank-3.jpg


And this is the vacumm pump off the tank, just plug and play inline between the air hose and watch your gauge.
tank-4.jpg


All the stuff can be bought at: www.surpluscenter.com
 
BTW... this gauge over there is only $3.99 * PN: 21-1634-AY
p21-1634-AYC.jpg


And here is the nice 1/4" valve I used, just $2.99 * PN: 20-1486
p20-1486C.jpg


Add in a couple brass fittings and for under $10.00 in hardware you are good to go. ;)
 
It shows at 39.99 online. Better to print out the online page and take it with you.
This is the price I normally see when I check online, does anyone know if it goes lower.
 
Kirk, I've not seen it lower than that. I bought one this last weekend at $39.99 and used a 20% off coupon so it was a good deal. Now if my pres/vac gauge will just show up by this weekend ....
 
Originally posted by RHossack

Kirk, I've not seen it lower than that. I bought one this last weekend at $39.99 and used a 20% off coupon so it was a good deal. Now if my pres/vac gauge will just show up by this weekend ....
Click to expand...

Was this a coupon that was sent to you recently?
Thanks
 
>Was this a coupon that was sent to you recently?

No. That coupon is 15% and it actually has my name on it.

I have a link where there is a 20% off coupon with no date expiration
so when I decide to buy something I use it.

In my local HF flyer (not sure about nationally) they have a lathe (34706) I've read mixed reviews and strong opinions on for $199.99
that I'm considering. Asked my local store if they'd take the 20% coupon and they said yes.
 
I didn't notice that someone else also posted another 20% coupon in another message ... this one is green so I guess you can print both out and have Christmas colors to go shopping with.
 
I am trying to set up my paint pot and am wondering about the 90 degree fitting where the paint normally exits the pot. It appears to be a 3/8 MIP but when I tried to screw on a 3/8 FIP to 1/4 FIP reducer, it would not thread on.

If I remove this elbow that came with the pot can I screw a 3/8 MIP fitting onto the top lid? Simlarly once I remove the paint tube inside the pot will a 3/8 MIP fitting screw in there?

Also on top of the T fitting where the pressure relief valve resides there is an odd sort of 1/4 FIP fitting with a hollow bolt inside of it. I can just barely get 3 threads of my vac/presure gauge into this fitting. The bolt is some weird 24 tpi fitting. Since 3 threads is the absolute minimum for load holding should I just live with it?
 
Doesn't matter, the relief valves are the first things that fail anyways. I don't run them on any of my tanks and I just watch the pressure gauge to see where I am at. I am also setting up an inline regulator to my casting area, so I will be able to runa more steady pressure at all times.
 
Can someone give me a quick run down on why the paint pot is used. I have done just a few castings w/o a pot and want to know the advantage of the pot. I have had trouble with the mixing of the cast. I did a coffee cast yesterday and all the coffee rose to the top will the pot prevent that and also I have had some chipping. Is that due to air in the cast?
 
I need a shopping list and please keep it simple. I am going to HF today and I need a paint pot and what else? Remember K>I>S>S--Keep it simple simple.

Thanks
 
I went to HF yesterday and the pot was listed at $49.99 on sale. They also are having a Sidewalk sale the first week in March. I think I will wait until then and see if I can get it for 29.99 as mentioned earlier.
 
I've never seen it below $39 either. But then, I stopped looking once I bought mine at $39. Better for the sanity that way. ;)

GK
 
Just an edit to add part numbers and prices for all the stuff needed from the the Surplus center. As of 3/1-08 all the needed fittings, valves and a new combo gauge will cost $19.99 (seriously) plus shipping. This assumes that the air chuck listed matches your hoses. This part list includes all the needed parts to set up the vacuum pump just like it is on my air tank as well.

Here is a parts list from The Surplus Center.

30vac/60psi combo gauge PN:=> 21-1634-AY ($3.99)

1/4â€->1/8†fitting PN:=> 455-GA ($0.79)

1/4†elbow fitting PN:=> 455-VV ($1.80) *Three needed

1/4â€->1/8†bushing PN:=> 110-42 ($0.55)

1/4†Ball valve PN:=> 20-1486 ($2.99)

711 Coupler PN:=> 438 ($4.49) * This is the coupler for the vacuum pump & the fitting @ the valve.

728 quick coupler PN:=> 440 ($0.99) * This fitting is for the inlet end of the vacuum pump. (Female thread)

3/8â€->1/4†bushing PN:=> 455-II ($.079) * This is to adapt into the original pot fitting.
 
Lee, thanks very much for that list. I've been wanting to get into casting but every time I read through the threads about parts for the pot my head began to hurt. I'm going to first look at a local supplier for the parts. If I find them more expensive there I'll usee the Surplus Center.
 
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