Coloring Alumilite

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chartle

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Ok after I realize that I've developed an allergy/sensitivity to PR I'm thinking of moving to Alumilite. Also I have cutoffs from about 150 Lbs of Cherry Burl that should make for some nice worthless wood blanks.

Here is what I use for PR to color it, some standard some not so standard. Wondering if there are any issues with the middle two.

  1. OK Pearl Ex see no issues at all.
  2. Adirondack Alcohol Inks
  3. Powder coat that makes for a very black black.
  4. I can also get Alumilite branded dyes from Hobby Lobby.
 
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KenV

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Have not used those inks BUT

Urethane resin does not like water and alcohol tends to attract water

So test the ink in small quanity you are willing to waste
 

chartle

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Have not used those inks BUT

Urethane resin does not like water and alcohol tends to attract water

So test the ink in small quanity you are willing to waste

Thats what I was also thinking but PR also hates water and its not an issue.

I don't use the inks much because you really have to add a ton to get a good color. I use them if I want something almost clear.
 

bmachin

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Don't know about the powder coat but the pigment in Alumilite black dye is carbon black. Doesn't get much blacker than that.

Bill
 

JohnU

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Alumilite makes dyes for alumilite that are reasonably priced. For the cost of alumilite to experiment, I would just buy what works. It will probably save you time and money.
 

Sylvanite

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Urethane resin does not like water and alcohol tends to attract water
Thats what I was also thinking but PR also hates water and its not an issue.
In my experience, polyester resin tolerates some moisture, but not water. A little water in PR will turn it milky but the resin will still set. Too much water and it won't harden.

Urethane resin (e.g. Alumilite) is intolerant to moisture. Just a little bit will make it foam. I once tried using powder paint as a colorant in Alumilite Clear and it foamed. Mica powder worked well if kept dry.

Dyes for polyester and urethane resins are not compatible. I once tried PR dyes (alcohol based) in Alumilite Clear and it foamed. When I tried Alumilite dyes in PR, the resin hardened, but the colors changed (green turned brown).

I use mica powder in both polyester and urethane resins, but only put pigments for fiberglass in PR, and dyes for Alumilite in urethane.

I hope that helps,
Eric
 

bmachin

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+1 on the Alumilite dyes.

They are heavily saturated so a little bit goes a long, long way.
Alumilite white dye is really not a dye at all but an opaque pigment. It allows you to make an opaque blank without having to deal with the very short working time of Alumilite white.

Cliff, I know you've been around here for a while and are generally well informed, but since you threw Hobby Lobby into the mix I wanted to point out that the Alumilite resins that they carry are not suitable for pens. I assume that you knew that, but just wanted to throw it out there.

FWIW,

Bill
 

chartle

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Cliff, I know you've been around here for a while and are generally well informed, but since you threw Hobby Lobby into the mix I wanted to point out that the Alumilite resins that they carry are not suitable for pens. I assume that you knew that, but just wanted to throw it out there.

FWIW,

Bill

Yes in fact I have been warning people about that for awhile, I actually almost bought the stuff, but I think one of their products they sell is Alumilite white, aka Amazing Casting Resin. Unless they really like to confuse people and they have two whites.

https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/934-Alumilite-White-Amazing-Casting-Resin.aspx


But they also sell the branded dyes, but I've only seen them recently.
 
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I just want to touch on the allergy to PR. Expect it to carry over to Alumilite, AA, and any other plastic blank sooner or later. Keep covered and clean up well. I have to be very careful with any resin. It didn't start out that way, but over the course of a few months I became very sensitive to all of them. You may not, but then again... Good luck.
 
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