Niles stoppers drill/tap

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
The Niles mandrel/tap with one flute is tough to use. Is there a 4 or at least 2 flute tap to use. What is the thread on her stoppers. Thank you.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
Her stoppers are 3/8X16.

I know that there are a lot of 4 flute taps available.

Thanks. The single flute is horrible to work with. Niles stoppers are my first experience drilling and tapping.
Lately I have been working with turning/pinning pool cue joint protectors. The tap is a 4flute and cuts/threads with ease.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
Bottom tap - Plug Tap...what is the difference...which one do I want.

Thanks for the replies.... tap tap...slight pun intended.
 
Last edited:

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,542
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
The difference between a bottoming tap and a plug tap is taper. A plug tap is tapered so that it more easily starts in the hole. But that means that the threading will be tapered toward the bottom of the hole. To produce uniform threading throughout the depth of the hole, a bottoming tap is used to finish the chamfered threads near the bottom of a hole after it has been threaded with a plug tap.

I would suggest always starting with a tapered plug tap - these are readily available at hardware and big box stores (and are less expensive than the bottoming tap you found).

Whether you also need a bottoming tap really depends on the material you are using. Bottoming taps are essential when threading metal, especially if the thread is to be used repeatedly. However, when threading wood bottle stoppers, threading once with a tapered tap is sufficient - the taper tends to lock the threaded stud on the stopper in the hole to prevent it from backing out with use. I don't routinely turn plastics, but I would be concerned about screwing a threaded stud into a hole in brittle plastic if thread is tapered - the additional stress as the stud approaches the bottom of the hole could crack the plastic.

Incidentally, you can also find 'tapered taps' - the difference between a tapered tap and a tapered plug tap is the amount of chamfer at the end of the tap. Plug taps taper only 3-5 threads at the bottom of the hole, while tapered taps chamfer 7-10 threads.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
Thanks again for the helpful replies. Ordered a kit and handle. Will follow up.
 

Attachments

  • 71o6qvZxt-L._SL1500_.jpg
    71o6qvZxt-L._SL1500_.jpg
    151.1 KB · Views: 247

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
Last edited:

Makereality

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2016
Messages
47
Location
Lakenheath UK
I did not see on the box the pre drill size, often it is found on the tap itself, I wouldn't vary from what is written for the pre drill size, no matter how odd the size may seem. I have some standard British small and Wentworth taps that list predrill with fractions of millimeters (I.e 8.6 mm drill). If your predrill is bigger the listed on the tap it may be easy to do but not enough thread will be made. Agree with monofoto, always go with taper then if you want to clean it out more use the plug or else we risk the material trying to get out will build up pressure at the bottom and fracture your hard work, risk also depending on amount of fluting for material escape. Good luck. Let's see how it'll "turn out"( my favorite penmaking pun, I like you tap tap too!)


Sent from my iPad using Penturners.org mobile app
 

donstephan

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2016
Messages
255
Location
Cincinnati Ohio
An easy way to check the thread count and size, for "standard" items, is to gently try to screw on a nut of known count and size. They won't identify size, but thread gauges are common and useful.

A workable tap can be made by filing notches at the bottom of a bolt. Just FYI.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
An easy way to check the thread count and size, for "standard" items, is to gently try to screw on a nut of known count and size. They won't identify size, but thread gauges are common and useful.

A workable tap can be made by filing notches at the bottom of a bolt. Just FYI.

Everything will work out find. I have a heavy hammer, a large vise and a soft touch
 

dogcatcher

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
2,359
Location
TX, NM or on the road
On wood blanks, I drill a 1/64" smaller hole than the bit suggested. I also drizzle a little thin CA glue in the hole and let it dry before I start to cut the threads. Failure to let the CA dry completely will not be fun. After I tap the first time, I drizzle more thin CA glue on the threads, again let it dry and recut the threads.

This gives me threads that are as good as the ones cut in acrylic blanks. But be sure to allow it to completely dry, or you will be turning the blank off of the tap and then soaking it in acetone to get everything off of it.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
But be sure to allow it to completely dry, or you will be turning the blank off of the tap and then soaking it in acetone to get everything off of it.

Are you saying be patient/follow instructions? A few times I used CA for a finish. Did not wait long enough for the next coat. Had to
re-sand and start over. Rush jobs definitely take longer.
 
Last edited:

monophoto

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2010
Messages
2,542
Location
Saratoga Springs, NY
Are you saying be patient/follow instructions? A few times I used CA for a finish. Did not wait long enough for the next coat. Had to
re-sand and start over. Rush jobs definitely take longer.


Do it right, or do it over.

Profound words that apply in all aspects of life.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
Are you saying be patient/follow instructions? A few times I used CA for a finish. Did not wait long enough for the next coat. Had to
re-sand and start over. Rush jobs definitely take longer.


Do it right, or do it over.

Profound words that apply in all aspects of life.

I have a dentist friend that constantly states that. I have another friend whose question is ...Why do people have time to do it right the second time.
 

dogcatcher

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
2,359
Location
TX, NM or on the road
But be sure to allow it to completely dry, or you will be turning the blank off of the tap and then soaking it in acetone to get everything off of it.

Are you saying be patient/follow instructions? A few times I used CA for a finish. Did not wait long enough for the next coat. Had to
re-sand and start over. Rush jobs definitely take longer.



Yes, you cannot get in a hurry. What I do is drill a handful of blanks one day, do the CA and wait until the following day to tap. Tap then CA again and the next day I clean it up by running the tap through again. I always had enough other stuff going that the wait was used doing other things.
 

WriteON

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Messages
3,267
Location
S. Florida
But be sure to allow it to completely dry, or you will be turning the blank off of the tap and then soaking it in acetone to get everything off of it.

Are you saying be patient/follow instructions? A few times I used CA for a finish. Did not wait long enough for the next coat. Had to
re-sand and start over. Rush jobs definitely take longer.



Yes, you cannot get in a hurry. What I do is drill a handful of blanks one day, do the CA and wait until the following day to tap. Tap then CA again and the next day I clean it up by running the tap through again. I always had enough other stuff going that the wait was used doing other things.
I understand about patience and that has always been my best aspect. I need to post my favorite sign to remind..... do it right or do it again....and ... short cuts take longer
 
Top Bottom