Tool and supplies help

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seht

Member
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Nov 7, 2006
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116
Location
Santa Rosa, CA, USA.
I have been trying and struggling and failing to improve my segmented blanks.
I have been trying a lot of things by hand. I don't have the power tools or supplies necessary to put out precise pieces.

I was wondering what you would consider as your must have tools?

Also is there a good source for inlay or layering materials. Nothing I seem to find locally matches the cuts from my table saw or my hand miter saw. The cut is either too big or the material is too small and doesn't fit well.

I have tried the aluminum cans, plastic card stock and I have some copper sheet and some brass rods all of which produced pens but they are very crude IMO.

I have seen pens with what I would consider complex cuts that I could not achieve by hand. How are those accomplished. lamination in diamond pattern etc.

I know I kind of ramble but I don't know where to start. I want to up my pen game but I need the most bang for my buck so to speak.

Where to start?

Thanks,

Scott
 
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Scott,

It sounds like from what you mentioned that you've never cut all the way through the blank? That's technically not segmenting but inlaying material and you probably want to use a scroll saw for that as it has the smallest kerf of most saws.

My advice? Spend the $10 and download Gabe Castro's segmenting video. He gives some good tips for doing scallops and other things. It's not the highest quality production, but it's not too bad.
 
jleiwig said:
Scott,

It sounds like from what you mentioned that you've never cut all the way through the blank? That's technically not segmenting but inlaying material and you probably want to use a scroll saw for that as it has the smallest kerf of most saws.

My advice? Spend the $10 and download Gabe Castro's segmenting video. He gives some good tips for doing scallops and other things. It's not the highest quality production, but it's not too bad.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I'll look for the video.
I have tried both inlay and cutting all the way through and segmenting.

Again, thanks for the info, it gives me a place to start.
 
Scott

Do you have a dial or electronic read calipers????

If not, now is the time to start by purchasing one of them. You do not need a fancy one, but avoid those under $20 or so. Little Machine Shop is a decent source.

Your process probably is not securing your material solidly, or your cutting is not smooth.

Are you using abrasives to adjust fit.

Hand techniques are capable of doing fantastic detail, but slowly.
 
I do have a digital caliper.
I would agree that my cuts are not as smooth as they should be and sanding only seems to make the problem worse. Never can seem to sand it flat and smooth at the same time.

I guess I'm looking for tool/jig suggestions to help with that process.

KenV said:
Scott

Do you have a dial or electronic read calipers????

If not, now is the time to start by purchasing one of them. You do not need a fancy one, but avoid those under $20 or so. Little Machine Shop is a decent source.

Your process probably is not securing your material solidly, or your cutting is not smooth.

Are you using abrasives to adjust fit.

Hand techniques are capable of doing fantastic detail, but slowly.
Click to expand...
 
I know that some people will think that I am crazy, however, I purchased a Ryobi 7 1/4" 18 volt miter saw and upgrade the blade to as high a tooth count as I could and the cuts that I get with that combination is amazing. They actually feel like they have been sanded and the kerf is exactly 1/16 inch. It will work for doing such things as segmenting and will even do celtic knots if you take your time with your cuts and glue up. Plus the total cost would be under 150.00.
 
money ?

seht said:
I have been trying and struggling and failing to improve my segmented blanks.
I have been trying a lot of things by hand. I don't have the power tools or supplies necessary to put out precise pieces.

I was wondering what you would consider as your must have tools?

Also is there a good source for inlay or layering materials. Nothing I seem to find locally matches the cuts from my table saw or my hand miter saw. The cut is either too big or the material is too small and doesn't fit well.

I have tried the aluminum cans, plastic card stock and I have some copper sheet and some brass rods all of which produced pens but they are very crude IMO.

I have seen pens with what I would consider complex cuts that I could not achieve by hand. How are those accomplished. lamination in diamond pattern etc.

I know I kind of ramble but I don't know where to start. I want to up my pen game but I need the most bang for my buck so to speak.

Where to start?

Thanks,

Scott
Click to expand...

Hi

What is your budget ?
What kind of lathe do you have now ?

What wood working equipment do you have now .

Imagine that you are making washers , like bolts nuts and washers.
what would be the inside Diameter and outside of the washer ?
 
If you want to cut your own inlays, you need to make a jig to slice narrow cuts with the TS.

1. First thing to do is square up your TS. Do you get saw marks on a rip cut or burn on cross cuts? If so, you need to tune up your TS. There are you tubes and forums that can help with that.

2. Second thing is make two or three sleds for the TS. A cross cut, a miter or even an adjustable miter cutting sled. I made a jig long ago for ripping narrow rips for inlays.

There are other ways for making wood inlays.

Another idea: Take an hour or so to study TS blades. There are quite a few kerf widths available. The kerf thickness often varies according to the kinds of cuts each blade model is made for. Different makers have different thicknesses. Sometimes dropping down to an 8" blade on a 10" saw will give another thickness. Bandsaws have an even narrower thickness.

I think your best bet is getting your TS tuned and making a sled for precision cuts. Also, use the calipers.
 
Power tools are nice,but like was said before thay need to be fine tuned to get the results you want.If your budget and shop won't allow power tools a vintage hand powered mitre saw will work equally as well if fine tuned.I myself use a Millers Falls.The most important things with segmenting or inlay work is keeping things square,and having your inlay or segments .002"-0.004"less than the kerf of your cutting tool to allow room for glue.You will have to make those.
 
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inlays

leehljp said:
If you want to cut your own inlays, you need to make a jig to slice narrow cuts with the TS.

1. First thing to do is square up your TS. Do you get saw marks on a rip cut or burn on cross cuts? If so, you need to tune up your TS. There are you tubes and forums that can help with that.

2. Second thing is make two or three sleds for the TS. A cross cut, a miter or even an adjustable miter cutting sled. I made a jig long ago for ripping narrow rips for inlays.

There are other ways for making wood inlays.

Another idea: Take an hour or so to study TS blades. There are quite a few kerf widths available. The kerf thickness often varies according to the kinds of cuts each blade model is made for. Different makers have different thicknesses. Sometimes dropping down to an 8" blade on a 10" saw will give another thickness. Bandsaws have an even narrower thickness.

I think your best bet is getting your TS tuned and making a sled for precision cuts. Also, use the calipers.
Click to expand...

Hank ,
TS is the only way ?
 
farmer said:
leehljp said:
If you want to cut your own inlays, you need to make a jig to slice narrow cuts with the TS.

1. First thing to do is square up your TS. Do you get saw marks on a rip cut or burn on cross cuts? If so, you need to tune up your TS. There are you tubes and forums that can help with that.

2. Second thing is make two or three sleds for the TS. A cross cut, a miter or even an adjustable miter cutting sled. I made a jig long ago for ripping narrow rips for inlays.

There are other ways for making wood inlays.

Another idea: Take an hour or so to study TS blades. There are quite a few kerf widths available. The kerf thickness often varies according to the kinds of cuts each blade model is made for. Different makers have different thicknesses. Sometimes dropping down to an 8" blade on a 10" saw will give another thickness. Bandsaws have an even narrower thickness.

I think your best bet is getting your TS tuned and making a sled for precision cuts. Also, use the calipers.
Click to expand...

Hank ,
TS is the only way ?
Click to expand...

No, he just said he had a TS. You know that old quote, "when all you have is a hammer, you tend to see everything as a nail!" :biggrin: So I offered him info on the TS. I will let others offer info on tools that he does not yet have. I have no problems with that.

My personal "must have" tools for segments was/is a cross cut / miter sled that I made back in '08 and still have it - and it is still accurate. I can micro cut down to .005 adjustments. Don't know if he could early on, but with practice and screw adjustments on miter sleds, he could. Repeatable cuts? Its there on the miter/cross cut sled. Exact cuts, its there with a well made TS sled!
 
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Not crude

seht said:
I have been trying and struggling and failing to improve my segmented blanks.
I have been trying a lot of things by hand. I don't have the power tools or supplies necessary to put out precise pieces.

I was wondering what you would consider as your must have tools?

Also is there a good source for inlay or layering materials. Nothing I seem to find locally matches the cuts from my table saw or my hand miter saw. The cut is either too big or the material is too small and doesn't fit well.

I have tried the aluminum cans, plastic card stock and I have some copper sheet and some brass rods all of which produced pens but they are very crude IMO.

I have seen pens with what I would consider complex cuts that I could not achieve by hand. How are those accomplished. lamination in diamond pattern etc.

I know I kind of ramble but I don't know where to start. I want to up my pen game but I need the most bang for my buck so to speak.

Where to start?

Thanks,

Scott
Click to expand...

 
Scott check with your park district some may have wood working shops. That way you could use their band or scroll saw. Here in Chicago our park district have a couple of woodworking shops.
 
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