Segmented Arrows

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mark james

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Most of the process for those that want to try. :)
 

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mark james

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Beautiful job Mark. I love the arrows - that took some decent planning. Also, six??? That was gutsy! Looks like you aligned them pretty well.

There are close Steve. I was trying to get as small a spacer between the inlays as possible, but was not sure how close they would look. As you are aware, when the blank is 7/8" thick and aligned on the OD, we are unsure if the alignment at .55" will still be decent.

I'm not partial to arrows, but this is an element I wanted to work on (more severe angles, multiple pieces) and go back to some of the Frank Lloyd Wright stained glass concepts.
 

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SteveJ

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Thanks for the pictures - I like how you used the disk sander to create the points. Going with the thinner arrows made the six possible. When I did five thicker ones the channels were so thin you could see light through them where the channels met.

I see you got the sliding table, are you glad you got it?
 

SteveAxelrod

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Oldsmar, Florida
Beautiful segmenting Mark! I turn pens for the immediate gratification. Segmenting is one niche that is not in the cards for me, but I certainly enjoy seeing your fine craftsmanship!
 

mark james

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Thanks for the pictures - I like how you used the disk sander to create the points. Going with the thinner arrows made the six possible. When I did five thicker ones the channels were so thin you could see light through them where the channels met.

I see you got the sliding table, are you glad you got it?

Yes, I am. I tried to make my own, and just was not happy with my attempt. The sled is expensive though. There are some issues, so using it will identify what jigs still are needed.

I made a few angled plates that allow me more angles. The way it is constructed, the adjustable bar on the left only extends to 45 degrees (I think).

I used an adjustable T square to get my right side (thickness of the slices) set, and it worked fine for repeatable cuts. I then added the blue tape as a simple zero tolerance. Before the blue tape, even though the slots in the sled are thin, my slices kept getting sucked into the slot, or shattered. The tape has eliminated that problem.

In the first picture you can see the T bar on the right edge. In the second picture the picture is from the back of the table saw so you can how I used the tape; not fancy, but took me about 10 seconds.
 

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Pierre---

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France
Thanks for the pics and for showing this beautiful pen, Mark.

If you want C&cs, I would say I admire the segmenting and precision, but I am not convinced by the red wood at the point : using the same white wood would have showed the point off.

The same for the other extremity, where the feathers are cut straight instead of V-cut. But well, maybe it was not the easiest part to glue...:biggrin:
 

Dale Parrott

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Feb 22, 2012
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Thank you Mark for showing us this new design and sharing how you made it. There is one process that I'm not clear on and that is making the grooves in the blank. I can think of a couple different ways but not sure my fingers would survive. Would you be willing to post a photo or 2 of your setup for this. If this has already been discussed just point me to the older thread. Great craftsmanship on this pen!
Dale
 

mark james

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Thank you Mark for showing us this new design and sharing how you made it. There is one process that I'm not clear on and that is making the grooves in the blank. I can think of a couple different ways but not sure my fingers would survive. Would you be willing to post a photo or 2 of your setup for this. If this has already been discussed just point me to the older thread. Great craftsmanship on this pen!
Dale

No problem Dale, I'll get some of the past links and some photos. For what its worth - I hope others (such as you have already have done) take anything I post as a spark of interest to have fun and teach me a few things. This is simply enjoyment for me - if others can use/develop it for their enjoyment/purposes - wonderful!

I will be stealing (with credit) your middle square section concept. I love that element, just need to figure out how to get it into "my technique" of slots close to .2" wide.
 

JohnU

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Ottawa, Illinois
I love it! I'm so glad you did this. I thought of arrows when I seen your demo pen in Chicago and wanted to try but I don't think I have the best tools for that job. Coming from a family of traditional bow hunters I love this idea and I'm very happy to see you pulled it off. Not at all surprised with Your eye for detail and skill level. Still very happy to see the final master piece. As always, thanks for sharing Mark! Can't wait to see what's next.
 

mark james

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There is one process that I'm not clear on and that is making the grooves in the blank. I can think of a couple different ways but not sure my fingers would survive. Would you be willing to post a photo or 2 of your setup for this.
Dale

These are slots made with a trim router and a slitting blade. This is a previous thread that has some discussion and pictures.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f179/billet-rings-145603/

Basically, I have a 1950's vintage Atlas Clausing Metal Lathe, motor was tore out ages ago. BUT, it has a 360 degree indexing plate welded to the headstock, and a mounting for a trim router that I have readapted for my purposes. The only purpose in life for this hunk of metal is to hold material between centers, cut slots in as many combinations as I can imagine.

I have been using different slitting blades from: Wisconsin Knife Works.

Basically, I can cut slots in 1" Hard Maple dowels (or any base material), any dimension wide (.06", .0625", .070" , etc...) to whatever depth I want, in any combination of numbers per dowel (I have done 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 12). The higher I go, the less material I have at depth (sometimes none).

The machine is named "Frankie" and it has earned it's keep!

Ask any questions! (Oh, If you want some slotted blanks to play with via "my technique" - send me a PM - and anyone else who may read this. Some folks cuts staves (pie shaped long segments), I cut straight bottom slots. No worries for my fingers - this is why I have no problem making "starting blanks" for others).
 

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mark james

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Thanks for the pics and for showing this beautiful pen, Mark.

If you want C&cs, I would say I admire the segmenting and precision, but I am not convinced by the red wood at the point : using the same white wood would have showed the point off.

The same for the other extremity, where the feathers are cut straight instead of V-cut. But well, maybe it was not the easiest part to glue...:biggrin:

You are correct on both points Pierre! A more vibrant color would have worked better. The arrow points are wenge, so they are blackish, and in person fairly distinct, but I agree that a different color (which I have) of veneer would highlight the divisions better.

Thanks for the tips - will only help next time.
 

SteveJ

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Are you using pre-turned hardwood dowels? That is a great idea - I've been turning pen blanks down which doesn't give me much room for the grooves with the set-up I've been using. Thanks for the pics, it will improve my methods.
 

mark james

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dogcatcher

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Outstanding job, thanks for sharing your processes.

I have that same Atlas Clausing lathe, except mine is the metric version. Ran out of room and put it in storage about 12 years ago. Almost tempted to get it out pf storage, but my Taig does my work for now.
 

mark james

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Bump for Keith

Keith, this is the thread I was mentioning.

Cut your slices at a more severe angle, thinner, thinner veneers, and you're good to go. I'll also suggest constructing a 5, 6 ,7 inlay vs your 4. The arrows will be much closer. But that may not be what you want.

Good luck.

Several other threads: http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/mismatched-chevrons-154066/. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/pen-153810/. http://www.penturners.org/forum/f13/20-piece-segmented-chevron-finial-150146/
 
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